Albuquerque, New Mexico – 300 Year Old Duke City
Albuquerque, New Mexico, a city steeped in history and vibrant culture, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the Southwest. Fondly nicknamed "Duke City," Albuquerque’s narrative stretches back an impressive 12,000 years, whispering tales of ancient inhabitants, Spanish conquistadors, and the transformative impact of the railroad and Route 66. This captivating city, nestled along the Rio Grande, offers a rich tapestry of experiences, blending indigenous heritage, Spanish colonial influences, and the allure of the open road.
The story of Albuquerque begins long before its official founding in 1706. Archaeological evidence suggests that the first American Indians settled in the area millennia ago, establishing a presence that would deeply influence the region’s identity. Between 1000 and 1300 AD, the Ancient Puebloan Indians, also known as the Anasazi, thrived in the vicinity. These resourceful people cultivated corn, beans, and squash, skillfully utilizing the fertile lands along the Rio Grande. Their ingenuity extended to architecture as they constructed pit homes using adobe and brick, demonstrating their understanding of the local environment and its resources. Beyond agriculture and housing, the Ancient Puebloans established a network of communities throughout northeastern New Mexico, connected by sophisticated roads that facilitated trade and communication. These roads served as arteries of cultural exchange, allowing for the sharing of knowledge, traditions, and resources among the various Puebloan settlements.
The arrival of Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century marked a significant turning point in the history of Albuquerque. In 1540, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado led an expedition north from Mexico, driven by the legendary allure of the Seven Cities of Cibola. These mythical cities were rumored to be overflowing with gold and riches, enticing Coronado and his men to venture into the unknown territories of the Southwest. Although Coronado’s search for the Seven Cities proved fruitless, his expedition paved the way for further Spanish exploration and settlement in the region. Despite the lack of immediate riches, the potential for new lands and opportunities continued to draw Spanish settlers to the area. However, the Pueblo Rebellion of 1680 temporarily halted further settlement, fueled by resentment towards Spanish rule and cultural imposition. It wasn’t until 1692, with the arrival of Spanish General Don Diego de Vargas, that stability was restored and Spanish influence reasserted. By the end of the 17th century, several trading posts had sprung up just north of present-day Albuquerque, laying the groundwork for the future city.
The formal establishment of Albuquerque occurred in 1706, transforming the area from a collection of settlements into a recognized Spanish villa. Don Francisco Cuervo y Valdez, the ambitious provisional governor of the territory, played a pivotal role in this transformation. Recognizing the strategic importance and potential of the Bosque Grande de San Francisco Xavier, Cuervo y Valdez petitioned the Spanish government to officially establish the area as a villa. In a gesture of respect and political maneuvering, he proposed naming the new settlement Albuquerque, after Viceroy Francisco Fernandez de la Cueva, the Duke of Albuquerque. This act of honoring a high-ranking official was intended to secure favor and support for the fledgling community. Interestingly, the spelling of the city’s name was later modified due to pronunciation difficulties encountered by some influential individuals. Despite this change, the nickname "Duke City" has endured, serving as a constant reminder of Albuquerque’s origins and its connection to Spanish nobility.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, Albuquerque remained a relatively small and unassuming trading center, primarily serving the needs of the local population and travelers along El Camino Real. This historic trail, also known as the Royal Road, connected Mexico City with Santa Fe, facilitating trade, communication, and cultural exchange between the two regions. The population of Albuquerque during this time consisted mainly of close-knit families of Spanish descent, who lived in and around the central plaza in Old Town. These families maintained strong ties to their traditions and heritage, shaping the cultural landscape of the city.
A significant shift occurred in 1839 when Josiah Gregg, a frontiersman and trailblazer, established the Old Fort Smith Wagon Road, connecting Arkansas with Santa Fe. This new route provided a more direct and efficient means of transportation between the eastern United States and the Southwest, opening up new opportunities for trade and settlement. Initially, the trail saw limited use, but the California Gold Rush of 1849 transformed it into a bustling thoroughfare, teeming with pioneers seeking their fortunes in the West. The influx of people and goods along the Old Fort Smith Wagon Road stimulated economic growth in Albuquerque, contributing to its gradual expansion.
The year 1846 marked another turning point in Albuquerque’s history when the United States claimed the territory. General Stephen Kearny established an army post in the city, solidifying American control over the region. During the Civil War, Confederate troops briefly occupied Albuquerque, underscoring the city’s strategic importance. After the war, the arrival of white merchants and tradesmen in significant numbers further altered the demographics and economic landscape of Albuquerque.
The arrival of the railroad in 1880 dramatically transformed Albuquerque, ushering in an era of unprecedented growth and change. The railroad brought with it a surge of new settlers, businesses, and industries, reshaping the city’s demographics and architecture. Numerous businesses were established around the new railroad station, catering to the needs of travelers and residents alike. The city began to expand rapidly, spreading beyond the confines of Old Town. By 1885, Albuquerque had grown sufficiently to warrant incorporation, marking its official transition from a small trading center to a burgeoning city.
In 1889, the establishment of the University of New Mexico in Albuquerque further contributed to the city’s growth and cultural diversification. The university attracted students, faculty, and staff from diverse backgrounds, bringing new ideas, perspectives, and cultural influences to the community. The university became a center of learning and research, contributing to the intellectual and economic development of Albuquerque.
Growth continued steadily into the 20th century, fueled by various factors, including the rise of tourism and the development of new industries. Another significant catalyst for growth was the arrival of Route 66, which brought a steady stream of traffic through the city. Before the 1930s, Albuquerque’s Main Street, now known as Central Avenue, was a relatively modest thoroughfare, lined with a few motor courts, gas stations, campgrounds, and cafes. However, with the designation of Route 66, Central Avenue underwent a dramatic transformation, becoming a vibrant commercial corridor. New motels, restaurants, and services sprang up along the route, competing for the attention of travelers on the "Mother Road." Unique and eye-catching establishments, such as a cafe shaped like an iceberg and a sombrero-shaped restaurant, added to the eclectic charm of Route 66 in Albuquerque. Motels like the Aztec Lodge and De Anza Motor Lodge, with their pueblo-inspired architecture, offered distinctive accommodations that reflected the region’s cultural heritage.
The realignment of Route 66 in 1937 further amplified its impact on Albuquerque. The new alignment resulted in a significant increase in the number of motels along Central Avenue, surpassing the number built in the previous decade or more. By 1955, there were over 100 motels on Albuquerque’s Central Avenue, a testament to the city’s popularity as a destination for travelers on Route 66. Finding an open room during the summer months could be a challenge, highlighting the high demand for accommodations along the iconic highway.
The Aztec Motel, originally built as the Aztec Auto Court in 1933, stood as the oldest surviving Route 66 motel in New Mexico until its demolition in 2011. An example of the Southwest Vernacular style, it was among the first auto courts to line Central Avenue. The motel changed ownership several times over the years, experiencing periods of both prosperity and decline. When Interstate 40 bypassed Central Avenue, the Aztec Motel’s business suffered dramatically, leading to its deterioration and association with illicit activities. However, in 1991, a new owner purchased the Aztec and embarked on a mission to restore it to its former glory. Through hard work and dedication, the new proprietor succeeded in revitalizing the motel, once again serving Route 66 travelers. Despite its revival, the Aztec Motel’s condition and the high cost of renovation ultimately led to its demolition in 2011.
The El Vado Motel, constructed in 1937, represents another significant landmark along Albuquerque’s Route 66. Built in the Pueblo Revival style, this enclosed motor court is considered the city’s purest surviving Route 66 motel. Previous owners had resisted offers to remove the motel’s iconic neon Indian sign, recognizing its historical and cultural value. In 2005, the motel was sold to a developer who initially planned to demolish it and build townhouses. However, a coalition of Route 66 enthusiasts and historic preservationists rallied to save the El Vado, highlighting its importance as a cultural landmark. The city of Albuquerque intervened, acquiring the property and developing plans to refurbish it into a mixed-use development. The renovated El Vado, featuring a community food court, an amphitheater, a boutique motel, and a small events center, celebrated its grand opening in July 2018, marking a successful preservation effort.
In 1959, the construction of Interstate 40 dealt a blow to Albuquerque’s vintage Route 66, as the new highway circumvented the narrow road of Route 66. While much of the Route 66-era roadside architecture was lost with the advent of the interstate, Albuquerque still retains a wealth of historical sites and iconic landmarks for the nostalgic traveler. A trip down Central Avenue at night offers a glimpse into the past, with the numerous neon lights sparkling along Route 66. Visitors can still see many iconic Route 66 motels, such as the De Anza Motel, the Tewa Motel, the Luna Lodge, and the Town Lodge Motel. The Nob Hill district, developed in the 1930s and 40s, and landmarks like the Lobo Theater and Lobo Pharmacy & Bookstore (originally Barber’s El Rancho Market), offer further glimpses into Albuquerque’s Route 66 heritage.
Downtown, several buildings from the 1940s and 50s era remain prominent landmarks, including the Sunshine Building, the First National Bank Building, the Rosenwald Building, and the KiMo Theater. Other notable sites west of Old Town include Lindy’s Restaurant, Maisel’s, and the El Vado Motel.
A comprehensive exploration of Albuquerque should also include a visit to Old Town, a preserved Spanish plaza that serves as the city’s historic heart. A scenic train ride and a visit to the New Mexico Museum of Natural History offer additional insights into the region’s natural and cultural heritage.
For those traveling Route 66 westward from Albuquerque, two alignments offer distinct experiences. The pre-1937 alignment, although less direct, is particularly interesting for its passage through several ghost towns, providing glimpses into the region’s long-ago past. To drive the older alignment, travelers should head south on NM 314 after crossing the Rio Grande, then turn west on NM6 at Los Lunas. The post-1937 alignment follows Central Avenue out of the city, crosses the Rio Grande, and climbs Nine-Mile Hill to join I-40. The two alignments converge again near the village of Mesita.
Albuquerque, New Mexico, the Duke City, is a place where history comes alive, where ancient traditions blend with modern innovation, and where the spirit of the open road continues to inspire. From its ancient roots to its Route 66 legacy, Albuquerque offers a rich and diverse experience that captivates visitors from around the world.