Alpine Tunnel, Colorado – An Engineering Marvel

Nestled approximately 18 miles southwest of Buena Vista, Colorado, lies a relic of ambitious 19th-century engineering: the Alpine Tunnel. This historic narrow-gauge railroad tunnel, a testament to human ingenuity and perseverance, once held the distinction of being the highest railroad tunnel in the world. Perched at an impressive altitude of 11,523 feet, it also marked the first passage carved through the formidable Continental Divide.

The story of the Alpine Tunnel begins with the Denver, South Park, and Pacific Railroad, a company driven by the promise of riches hidden within the rugged Colorado landscape. In November 1879, the railroad embarked on a challenging project: connecting the bustling mining town of St. Elmo with the emerging settlement of Pitkin, Colorado. The ambitious plan involved constructing a railway line that would slice through the heart of the Continental Divide, a feat that demanded both manpower and technological innovation. To accomplish this monumental task, two construction crews were dispatched, each working diligently from opposite ends of the planned tunnel route.

Driven by the anticipation that the mineral-rich region surrounding the Alpine Tunnel would yield the next significant mining "bonanza," the construction project drew a massive workforce. It is estimated that as many as 10,000 individuals contributed to the construction of the line and the tunnel at various times. While a core crew of around 400 workers maintained a consistent presence, the demanding conditions and harsh environment led to rapid turnover. These laborers, often toiling for a meager $3.50 per day, and explosives specialists, earning slightly more at $5.00 per day, faced the daily challenge of battling the relentless cold and the brutal nature of the work. The severity of the conditions often necessitated that these workers travel in groups between their worksites and their cabins, a precautionary measure to prevent them from becoming disoriented and lost amidst the frequent and heavy snowfalls. The construction of the Alpine Tunnel was a feat of endurance as much as engineering.

The initial excavation of the Alpine Tunnel commenced in January 1880, fueled by optimistic projections that the project would be completed within a mere six months. However, these ambitious plans soon collided with the harsh realities of the unforgiving mountain environment. Starting the project in the dead of winter proved to be a significant obstacle, and the railroad company quickly realized that their initial timeline was unrealistic. In the end, it took the railroad more than two years to complete the tunnel, far exceeding their initial estimates. The project’s total cost ballooned to approximately $300,000, a staggering $180,000 over the original budget. One of the major factors contributing to the increased costs was the unexpected discovery of crumbling granite within the tunnel’s interior. To address this structural challenge, over 400,000 board feet of California redwood were required to reinforce and encase approximately 80% of the tunnel’s length, ensuring its long-term stability.

Despite the setbacks and challenges, the two construction crews finally converged within the Alpine Tunnel in July 1881, a momentous occasion that marked a significant milestone in the project’s progress. However, much work remained before the tunnel could be deemed ready for rail traffic. It would take another year of intensive labor to complete the necessary finishing touches and ensure the tunnel’s safety and functionality.

When the first narrow-gauge train triumphantly traversed the Alpine Tunnel in July 1882, it was a moment of great celebration and a testament to the unwavering determination of the engineers and laborers who had dedicated themselves to the project. At that time, the tunnel stretched an impressive 1,772 feet in length, a remarkable feat of engineering considering the challenging conditions under which it was built. Rising more than two miles above sea level, it was located 500 feet below Altman Pass (later renamed Alpine Pass). It also earned the distinction of being the most expensive railroad tunnel constructed up to that point, a reflection of the immense challenges and costs associated with its construction.

Beyond the western portal of the Alpine Tunnel lay the Alpine Tunnel Station, the highest railroad station in the United States. This bustling hub comprised a turntable for reversing locomotives, a water tank for replenishing their supplies, a sturdy stone boarding house to accommodate railroad personnel, and a spacious engine house capable of sheltering up to six locomotives.

Extending beyond the tunnel, the Denver, South Park, and Pacific tracks continued westward towards the town of Gunnison, facilitating the transportation of goods and passengers throughout the region. The completion of this engineering marvel provided welcome relief to those who had previously been forced to navigate the treacherous passes of Tin Cup, Taylor, and Altman, enduring arduous journeys to transport supplies and mail.

Scattered along the tracks were several small settlements, some serving the needs of the railroad and others housing the many miners who flocked to the area in search of fortune. These settlements included Woodstock, Quartz, Sherrod, and Pitkin on the western end of the line, as well as St. Elmo on the eastern end, each contributing to the vibrant tapestry of life along the railroad corridor.

Despite the harsh weather conditions that prevailed at such high elevations, particularly during the long winter months, the railroad line and the Alpine Tunnel operated relatively smoothly for the first few years of their existence. However, tragedy struck in March 1884 when the town of Woodstock was devastated by a massive avalanche. The avalanche buried 18 people, claiming the lives of 13, including six children. The settlement, which had once boasted a population of around 200 residents, was never rebuilt. Most of its surviving residents relocated to the nearby town of Sherrod, and a new water tank for the railroad was constructed approximately half a mile down the grade. Today, the remnants of Woodstock consist of a few stone foundations, decaying timbers, and a historical marker, serving as a poignant reminder of the town’s tragic fate.

Due to the high elevation and the severe winter conditions, the Alpine Tunnel began to close during the winter months, with closures occurring between 1887 and 1889 and again between 1890 and 1894. During this period of uncertainty, the Denver, South Park & Pacific Railroad entered receivership in August 1889. The railroad emerged from receivership under a new name, the Denver, Leadville & Gunnison line, with control passing to the Union Pacific Railroad. However, this new entity also faced financial difficulties, eventually entering receivership itself five years later.

In 1895, the Alpine Tunnel faced further misfortune when four crew members tragically suffocated while attempting to reopen the tunnel after the winter closure. Shortly thereafter, a train wreck occurred near the tunnel in May, claiming the lives of two men.

The railroad line continued to struggle financially until the Colorado and Southern Railway Company was formed in 1899 through the merger of the Denver, South Park & Pacific Railroad, Union Pacific, and Denver & Gulf railroads.

Throughout its 30-year lifespan, the railroad line was plagued by accidents and severe weather events. In 1901, a train consisting of one passenger coach and ten loaded freight cars was completely buried by snow. In 1904, another train wreck occurred west of the tunnel. Two years later, a fire destroyed the engine house, and another collision took place inside the tunnel.

Ultimately, the railroad company determined that the dangerous and accident-prone Alpine Tunnel was no longer viable. The last train passed through the tunnel in November 1910. A decade later, the vast majority of the old track had been removed.

Today, the area surrounding the tunnel is designated as the Alpine Tunnel Historic District, encompassing a two-hundred-foot-wide right-of-way along thirteen miles of the original Denver, South Park, and Pacific rail bed between the townsites of Quartz and Hancock.

Although the tunnel’s east portal collapsed many years ago and landslides have obscured the west portal, the district still offers a glimpse into its prosperous early years. From Hancock westward, the former rail bed has been transformed into a hiking trail. The west side can be accessed via a rough road, also situated on the former rail bed, leading to the restored railroad station house.

While the 4-wheel drive trail is often described as "easy," its condition can vary, and caution is advised. The trail is frequently used by ATVs, which can contribute to its roughness.

Despite the challenges, the journey to the Alpine Tunnel Historic District is a rewarding experience. The district is typically open from July to September, with a narrow dirt road winding upward to the tunnel for approximately ten miles.

To begin your trip, head northeast of Pitkin, Colorado, to the junction of the Cumberland Pass Road (FDR 765) and the Alpine Tunnel Road (FDR 839). The first seven miles or so are relatively manageable in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Along this stretch, you will encounter the old town sites of Quartz, Woodstock, and Sherrod, as well as various mining remnants, a restored railroad water tank, and remnants of the original railroad tracks.

However, just beyond Sherrod, where the road forks, with one rocky path leading to Hancock and the other to the Alpine Tunnel, the trail becomes significantly narrower, steeper in places, and extremely rocky. At this point, it is recommended to proceed only with an ATV, mountain bike, or on foot.

The trail, following the route of the old narrow-gauge railroad bed, is particularly narrow when traversing the "Palisades," a retaining wall constructed of hand-cut stones without the use of mortar. The retaining wall stretches for 432 feet in length and reaches a height of 33 feet, offering spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.

The trail continues to the Alpine Station, where the remains of the old engine house can still be observed, along with the restored station and telegraph office and the old railroad roundtable. Just before reaching the station, access for ATVs and other vehicles is restricted, requiring visitors to walk the remaining distance to the station. The entrance to the west portal of the tunnel is located a short distance away.