Ash Fork, Arizona – The Flagstone Capital of the World
Nestled within the sprawling landscapes of Yavapai County, Arizona, lies the unassuming town of Ash Fork, a community steeped in history and renowned as the "Flagstone Capital of the World." Situated along the historic Route 66, Ash Fork presents a unique blend of rugged Western charm and echoes of a bygone era, inviting visitors to explore its storied past and appreciate its resilient spirit. This article delves into the rich tapestry of Ash Fork, exploring its origins, its rise to prominence, and the challenges it has overcome to maintain its identity in the face of progress.
The story of Ash Fork begins with the relentless expansion of the railroad across the American West. In October 1882, the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, later known as the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, forged its path through this region, establishing a simple railroad siding that would eventually blossom into the town we know today. F.W. Smith, the General Superintendent of the railroad, bestowed the name "Ash Fork" upon the nascent settlement, a tribute to the abundance of ash trees that graced the surrounding landscape.
However, the land upon which Ash Fork was built held a history that stretched far beyond the arrival of the railroad. Long before the iron horse thundered through, Native American tribes roamed these territories, leaving behind tangible evidence of their presence in the form of pottery shards, arrowheads, and intriguing pictorial writings etched onto the rocks. These artifacts serve as a poignant reminder of the generations who called this land home before the arrival of European settlers. The echoes of Spanish explorers, driven by the allure of the mythical Seven Cities of Cibola, also reverberate through the region, their expeditions bringing them close to the area in the late 16th century.
The early 19th century saw fur trappers and traders traversing this "primitive" terrain on their arduous journeys from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to Los Angeles, California. These intrepid individuals navigated poorly maintained trails through a region known for its wildness, unexplored territories, and inherent dangers. From 1857 to 1860, Lieutenant Edward F. Beale embarked on a monumental undertaking, leading a crew of 100 men and 22 camels in the construction of the first federal highway in the Southwest, aptly named the Beale Wagon Road. This pioneering road laid the groundwork for future transportation routes, including the iconic Route 66, which would later be paved across sections of this historic trail.
The year the railroad arrived, 1882, also marked the opening of the town’s first business, established by Thomas Cooper Lewis. In April 1883, Ash Fork officially gained its own post office, with Henry W. Kline serving as the first Postmaster, solidifying its status as a growing community. Two years later, Wells Fargo, the renowned stagecoach and banking company, established an office in Ash Fork, further cementing its importance as a regional hub. The arrival of the railroad not only facilitated transportation but also opened up the surrounding area to cattle and sheep ranching, contributing to the town’s burgeoning economy.
The railroad also played a pivotal role in the development of the stone industry, which would eventually become synonymous with Ash Fork. Local flagstone was quarried for the railroad’s use in constructing bridges, and private industry soon followed suit, shipping the distinctive stone for the construction of public buildings, churches, and office buildings across the country. This natural resource would ultimately shape the town’s identity and earn it the moniker "Flagstone Capital of the World."
In its early days, Ash Fork, like many railroad towns in the West, was a melting pot of railroaders and cowboys, often operating outside the confines of established law and order. With a large population of rough-and-tumble men, chaos often reigned supreme, prompting concerned citizens to form a vigilance committee to address the lawlessness. Legend has it that several individuals met their fate by being hanged from an ash tree, a grim reminder of the challenges faced by the early settlers.
A devastating fire in 1893 razed the entire town of Ash Fork to the ground, a setback that could have spelled the end for a less resilient community. However, the residents of Ash Fork refused to be defeated. The town was rebuilt on the opposite side of the railroad tracks, where it stands to this day, a testament to the enduring spirit of its people. The stone industry continued to thrive, and much of the rebuilt town was constructed using the very flagstone that defined its identity. It was during this period that the citizens proudly proclaimed Ash Fork the "Flagstone Capital of the World," a title that has remained synonymous with the town ever since.
As railroad travel gained popularity, the Fred Harvey Escalante Hotel was constructed in 1907, a symbol of Ash Fork‘s growing importance as a transportation hub. This grand hotel, built of steel and concrete in the Mission Style of Spanish architecture, opened its doors on March 1, 1907, offering a luxurious respite for travelers. Measuring an impressive 420 x 200 feet, the hotel boasted a lunchroom with a circular counter staffed by the ever-popular Harvey Girls, a large curio shop, a newsstand/reading room, and even a barbershop. The Escalante Hotel became a landmark in Ash Fork, a testament to the town’s prosperity and its role as a vital stop along the railroad line.
The arrival of Route 66 further solidified Ash Fork‘s position as a key destination for travelers. The Fred Harvey Escalante Hotel and restaurant catered to both highway and railroad travelers, and the new highway spurred economic growth in the town. However, progress also came at a cost. When the Mother Road was upgraded to a divided highway, many storefronts, sidewalks, and residential streets were destroyed, disrupting the town’s fabric and altering its landscape.
The rise of automobile travel eventually led to the decline of railroad travel, and the beautiful Escalante Hotel closed its doors in 1948, marking the end of an era. In 1960, the Santa Fe Railroad moved its main line north and away from Ash Fork, resulting in a significant population loss and a blow to the local economy. Another devastating fire, known as the "Big Fire," swept through the community on November 20, 1977, destroying most of the downtown businesses and further challenging the town’s resilience.
The construction of I-40, which closely followed Route 66, bypassed Ash Fork entirely, except for the stretch between Ash Fork and Kingman, where Route 66 took a more northerly, less direct route. This bypass dealt another blow to the local economy, which has struggled to fully recover ever since. It was during this period of decline that the historic Escalante Hotel was demolished, a tragic loss for the community and a poignant symbol of the changing times.
Despite the challenges it has faced, Ash Fork has persevered. The small population continues to be supported by five flagstone yards, ranching, mining, and a new generation of Route 66 travelers who are drawn to the town’s historic charm and its connection to the Mother Road. The Mother Road, now known as Park Avenue, serves as the main thoroughfare through town, and a few historic buildings and old railroad company houses can still be seen along this historic stretch of pavement.
Visitors to Ash Fork can explore the Ash Fork Route 66 Museum, located at 901 W. Old Route 66, which showcases Route 66 memorabilia and provides insights into the area’s rich history. Photo opportunities abound at DeSoto’s Beauty Barber and Gift Shop, located at 314 West Lewis Avenue, the Oasis Lounge at 424 Park Avenue, and the Ranch House Cafe at 111 W Park Avenue, each offering a glimpse into the town’s unique character. Today, Ash Fork is home to approximately 450 residents, a testament to its enduring spirit and its ability to adapt to changing circumstances.
Beyond Ash Fork, the longest stretch of unbroken Route 66 highway begins at Crookston Road, offering a nostalgic journey through the heart of the American West. This historic pavement, stretching approximately 92 miles, meanders parallel to the Santa Fe Railroad bed, providing glimpses of vintage Route 66 and immersing travelers in the history of Native Americans, mining, and the Old West.
Located approximately 17 miles west of Williams, Arizona, Ash Fork stands as a reminder of the past, a testament to the resilience of its people, and a celebration of its unique identity as the "Flagstone Capital of the World." Its history is etched in the landscape, woven into the fabric of its community, and preserved in the hearts of those who call it home.