Barton County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail
The Santa Fe Trail, a vital artery of commerce and westward expansion in the 19th century, carved its path across the vast expanse of the American prairie. In Kansas, its route meandered through numerous counties, each leaving its own unique imprint on the trail’s history. One such county, Barton County, situated in the heart of the state, holds a significant place in the Santa Fe Trail’s narrative, marked by its geographical features, trading posts, military presence, and poignant stories of life and death along the trail.
As the Santa Fe Trail ventured westward beyond Plum Buttes in Rice County, it seamlessly transitioned into Barton County, Kansas. Approximately five miles into this new territory, travelers encountered a prominent landmark: the Big Bend of the Arkansas River, near present-day Ellinwood. This distinctive curve in the river served as a natural gathering point, attracting wagon trains seeking respite and resources. The area became a sprawling campsite, a temporary home for weary travelers, bustling with activity as people and animals rested and replenished their supplies.
Sadly, not all who embarked on the arduous journey along the Santa Fe Trail reached their destination. The Big Bend also became a final resting place for many, their lives claimed by disease, accidents, or encounters with hostile Native American tribes. An unmarked burial ground emerged near the campsite, a silent testament to the hardships endured by those who dared to traverse the trail. The lack of marked graves adds a layer of somber reflection to the site, a reminder of the anonymity and loss that often accompanied the westward movement.
Following the course of the Arkansas River, the Santa Fe Trail led travelers to another significant location within Barton County: Walnut Creek Crossing. Situated about two miles east of Great Bend, this crossing became a hub of commercial and military activity. It boasted a trading ranch, a toll bridge, and a military post, all strategically positioned to serve the needs of those traversing the trail.
The Walnut Creek Ranch, established in the summer of 1855 by William Allison and Francis Boothe, holds the distinction of being the first non-military building erected west of Council Grove. This trading post, a large log structure, served as a vital supply point for travelers, offering provisions, repairs, and a much-needed respite from the rigors of the trail. It became a landmark, a symbol of civilization pushing westward into the vast wilderness.
The history of the Walnut Creek Ranch is intertwined with tales of ambition, violence, and tragedy. Over the years, the trading post changed hands several times, each owner leaving their mark on its story. In September 1857, Francis Boothe was murdered by a Mexican, a stark reminder of the lawlessness and danger that often prevailed on the frontier. Two years later, in April 1859, William Allison succumbed to heart failure while traveling in Missouri.
George Peacock of Independence, Missouri, became the next owner of the trading post. However, his tenure was short-lived. In September 1860, he was killed by Satank, a Kiowa Chief, highlighting the ever-present threat of conflict between settlers and Native American tribes. Following Peacock’s death, Charles Rath, a renowned buffalo hunter, took over the post and operated it until 1867. Rath’s association with the trading post further cemented its reputation as a frontier establishment, deeply connected to the world of buffalo hunting and trade with Native American tribes.
In 1867, Joseph W. Douglas assumed ownership of the Walnut Creek Ranch. However, the trading post’s turbulent history culminated in its destruction on May 19, 1868, when it was burned down by Arapaho and Cheyenne Indians. This act of violence marked the end of an era for the Walnut Creek Ranch, a symbol of the changing dynamics between settlers and Native American tribes on the Santa Fe Trail.
The Santa Fe Trail’s route through Barton County, Kansas wasn’t only shaped by commerce and conflict; it was also influenced by the natural environment. Walnut Creek, a tributary of the Arkansas River, presented a significant obstacle for travelers. During periods of flooding, wagon trains would be forced to camp on the creek’s banks for days, waiting for the waters to recede. This delay underscored the importance of reliable crossings, leading to the construction of a toll bridge at Walnut Creek, one of the first of its kind in the region.
Today, the site of Walnut Creek Crossing is located about two miles east of Great Bend, south of US Highway 56. While the trading post is long gone, its foundations remain, offering a glimpse into the past. Visitors can explore the area, imagining the bustling activity that once characterized this vital crossroads on the Santa Fe Trail.
As the Santa Fe Trail continued its westward trajectory through Barton County, Kansas, it passed by the site of Fort Zarah. Established in 1864, this military post played a crucial role in protecting travelers and maintaining order along the trail. Fort Zarah was a substantial complex, featuring a large stone building with quarters for officers and troops, kitchens, mess halls, storerooms, and other essential facilities. The fort served as a symbol of federal authority, a visible reminder of the government’s commitment to securing the Santa Fe Trail.
However, Fort Zarah’s lifespan was relatively short. In 1869, the post was abandoned, deemed unnecessary due to a perceived decrease in the Indian threat and its proximity to Fort Larned. Despite its brief existence, Fort Zarah left its mark on the landscape and the history of Barton County, Kansas. Today, the site is commemorated by a roadside park on the north side of US Highway 56, just east of Great Bend. Visitors can stop and reflect on the fort’s role in the Santa Fe Trail’s story.
From Fort Zarah, the Santa Fe Trail followed the northern bend of the Arkansas River, gradually turning southwest near present-day Great Bend. As it exited Barton County, Kansas, the trail passed close to a prominent natural landmark: "Rock Point," later known as Pawnee Rock.
Pawnee Rock, an outcropping of Dakota sandstone, stands as one of the most iconic features along the Santa Fe Trail in Kansas. Named for a historical battle with the Pawnee Indians, this geological formation served as a landmark, a lookout point, and a place for travelers to leave their mark. During the trail’s heyday, Pawnee Rock was nearly 30 feet higher than it is today, its surface covered with inscriptions carved by countless travelers. Over the years, however, significant portions of the rock were removed for railroad construction and local building projects.
Despite the erosion and removal of rock, Pawnee Rock remains a prominent landmark, offering panoramic views of the surrounding prairie. It serves as a powerful reminder of the Santa Fe Trail’s legacy, a tangible connection to the past. Today, Pawnee Rock is a Kansas State Historic Site, located just north of US Highway 56 on the northern edge of the town of Pawnee Rock. Visitors can climb to the top of the rock, imagine the vast expanse of the prairie as seen by early travelers, and contemplate the stories etched into its sandstone surface.
Marian Russell, a traveler on the Santa Fe Trail in 1852, captured the sense of relief that many felt upon reaching Fort Mackey (later Fort Atkinson) on the Arkansas River, stating that "After leaving Pawnee Rock, the fear of the Indians was with us day and night…and when we reached Fort Mackey (Fort Atkinson) on the Arkansas River, we breathed a sigh of relief." Her words encapsulate the challenges and anxieties faced by those who traversed the Santa Fe Trail, highlighting the constant threat of danger and the importance of military protection.
Barton County, Kansas, through its geographical features, trading posts, military presence, and historical landmarks, played a vital role in the Santa Fe Trail’s narrative. From the Big Bend of the Arkansas River to the Walnut Creek Crossing, Fort Zarah, and Pawnee Rock, the county offered travelers both opportunities and challenges. Its stories of commerce, conflict, and resilience contribute to a deeper understanding of the Santa Fe Trail’s significance in American history. Exploring the remnants of the trail in Barton County, Kansas offers a chance to connect with the past, to appreciate the hardships and triumphs of those who forged a path across the prairie, and to remember the legacy of the Santa Fe Trail.