Baxter Springs – First Kansas Cow Town
Baxter Springs, Kansas, a name synonymous with the rugged history of the American West, holds a unique place in the annals of frontier towns. Before the arrival of cattle drives and railroad tracks, the area was a cherished haven for the Osage Indians, who recognized the healing properties of its natural mineral springs. This unassuming location would evolve into a bustling cow town, a strategic Civil War site, and a vital stop along the iconic Route 66.
The story of Baxter Springs begins long before its official establishment, with the Osage Nation. As they journeyed towards their summer hunting grounds, the tribe, led by Chief Black Dog, made it a point to visit the springs, believing in their miraculous ability to heal. These springs, now lost to time, once bubbled forth just south of East Seventh Street, offering respite and rejuvenation to those who sought their therapeutic waters.
The seeds of the modern town were sown in the spring of 1849 with the arrival of Reverend John Baxter, his wife, and their eight children. They settled on 160 acres of land near the Spring River, drawn to the natural spring that the Osage had long revered. Recognizing the location’s potential, Baxter established "Baxter’s Place," an inn and general store catering to travelers along the Military Road, a crucial artery connecting Fort Scott and Fort Gibson. Sadly, Reverend Baxter’s life was cut short in 1859, a victim of a property dispute, leaving him unable to witness the town that would later bear his name. However, Baxter Springs will forever be associated with him.
The outbreak of the Civil War transformed the landscape of Baxter Springs. In the spring of 1862, Fort Blair, also known as Fort Baxter, was erected north of the springs to safeguard Kansas residents from Confederate incursions. This fortification became the site of the infamous Baxter Springs Massacre. On October 6, 1863, Confederate guerrillas, commanded by the notorious William Quantrill, launched a devastating attack on the fort around midday. Following this initial assault, they ambushed and massacred a contingent of Union troops led by General James G. Blunt, who were en route to Fort Smith. The aftermath of this brutal encounter left nearly 100 Union soldiers dead, their remains interred in the Baxter Springs Cemetery, a somber reminder of the town’s Civil War history.
With the cessation of hostilities in 1865, Captain M. Mann and J. J. Barnes laid out a town on 80 acres, setting the stage for Baxter Springs’ transformation into a pivotal hub for the Texas cattle trade. As Missouri closed its borders to Texas cattle due to quarantine restrictions, Baxter Springs welcomed the herds with open arms. Massive stockyards were constructed, boasting corrals capable of accommodating 20,000 cattle, while the surrounding rangeland provided ample grazing and water. This influx of cattle brought prosperity to the town but also forged its reputation as one of the wildest cow towns in the West.
The arrival of the cattle drives brought a surge of activity and a distinct character to Baxter Springs. Cowboys, weary from months on the trail, sought refuge and recreation in the town’s numerous saloons. These establishments, offering a potent mix of flowing liquor, gambling, and readily available companionship, became a defining feature of Baxter Springs. It was said that every third business in town was either a gambling house or a saloon, contributing to an atmosphere where public hangings, gunfights, and saloon brawls were commonplace.
Incorporated in 1868 with a population of approximately 1,500, the city government of Baxter Springs embarked on an ambitious plan to attract further development. They issued $150,000 in bonds to incentivize the Missouri River, Fort Scott, and Gulf Railroad to extend its line into Southeastern Kansas. Additional bonds were used to finance the construction of a new school, a courthouse, and street improvements. The arrival of the railroad on May 12, 1870, marked a significant milestone, propelling the town’s population to 6,000 within two years. However, this prosperity was short-lived. As the railroad continued its southward expansion into Texas, the cattle industry in Baxter Springs began to decline. Despite this economic downturn, the town’s reputation for lawlessness persisted, exemplified by the 1872 incident in which Mayor J.R. Boyd fatally shot City Marshal C.M. Taylor over a dispute concerning an arrest warrant.
The decline of the cattle trade ushered in a period of hardship for Baxter Springs. By 1876, the town’s population had dwindled to a mere 800 residents. However, this period of adversity led to a new discovery: the remarkable health-giving properties of the mineral springs. Baxter Springs transformed into a renowned health spa, attracting visitors from across the country seeking the curative powers of its waters. A park was established on Military Avenue near the bathhouses, providing a serene setting for those who came to drink the healing waters.
On April 19, 1876, the tranquility of Baxter Springs was disrupted by a daring bank robbery. Two members of the infamous James-Younger Gang, Charlie Pitts and Bill Chadwell, rode into town and robbed the Crowell Bank. While the involvement of Jesse and Frank James in planning the robbery remains a subject of debate among historians, their presence at the scene was never confirmed. The robbers made off with nearly three thousand dollars. Today, the former Crowell Bank building houses a charming café on Route 66, adorned with a sign claiming that Jesse James once robbed it. While local lore supports this claim, historical evidence suggests that the James brothers were not directly involved and were not in Baxter Springs at the time of the robbery.
The late 1800s brought renewed economic vitality to Baxter Springs with the discovery of lead and zinc deposits across the state line in Missouri. This discovery attracted a wave of new residents, and mining operations soon expanded into the southeast corner of Kansas. The town once again flourished as a prosperous business center. However, with the rise of mining, the dependence on the mineral springs waned, and the health spa era gradually faded.
In 1926, the iconic Route 66 was established, traversing through Baxter Springs and providing a new source of revenue. Gas stations, cafes, and motor courts sprung up along the highway, catering to the needs of travelers and further bolstering the town’s economy.
During the 1930s, the notorious duo Bonnie and Clyde were rumored to have robbed the Baxter Springs General Store twice within a single week. According to local legend, the infamous outlaws passed through Baxter Springs, robbed the store, and then returned a week later to repeat the crime.
In the late 1940s, Mickey Mantle, a young baseball prodigy from nearby Commerce, Oklahoma, played for three years with the Baxter Springs Whiz Kids. In 1949, during a game in the park, Mantle hit a ball into the Spring River. A rainstorm delayed the game, and during this time, Mantle was approached by Tom Greenwade, a scout for the New York Yankees, who signed him up to play for the legendary team.
The 1970s marked the decline of mining in the area, leaving a lasting environmental impact on much of southeast Kansas. However, Baxter Springs persevered, diversifying its economy through business, agriculture, and industry. Today, the town is home to approximately 4,500 residents.
The original spring that gave Baxter Springs its name and served the Osage Indians for generations ceased to flow with the advent of lead and zinc mining.
Despite the changes that have swept through the town over the years, Baxter Springs retains many remnants of its Route 66 era and Civil War history. The town offers a historic walking tour and several museums that showcase its rich past. At the corner of 11th Street and Route 66 (Military Avenue) stands the now-closed Café on the Route, housed in the 1870 building that once served as the Crowell Bank. This building, which was robbed by members of the James-Younger Gang in 1876, was also home to the original Murphy’s restaurant, famous along Route 66 for its pies.
Just north of town, the Rainbow Curve Bridge, the only remaining Marsh Arch Bridge on Route 66, stands as a testament to the town’s connection to the Mother Road.
At the Chamber of Commerce, visitors can obtain information on the Military Frontier Scenic Byway and the Civil War Driving Tour, which features 16 Civil War sites. The Baxter Springs Heritage Center and Museum offers exhibits on the Baxter Springs Massacre, Civil War artifacts, Native American history, and Route 66.
From Baxter Springs, Route 66 continues into Oklahoma, passing through other mining towns such as Quapaw, Commerce, and Miami.