Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado
The Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado, a formidable chasm sculpted over eons by the relentless force of the Gunnison River, stands as a testament to nature’s raw power and artistic prowess. This awe-inspiring landscape, characterized by its sheer black walls plunging to depths of up to 2,700 feet, stretches for 53 miles, creating a narrow gorge that distinguishes it from other canyons across the North American continent. Its unique combination of constricted width, precipitous cliffs, and staggering depths evokes a sense of both grandeur and humbling insignificance in those who venture to its rims.
Nestled in the heart of west-central Colorado, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado holds a place of prominence as one of America’s more recent additions to its celebrated National Park system. However, its history extends far beyond its designation as a protected area. For centuries before European explorers set foot in the region, bands of the Tabaquache Ute Indian tribe were intimately familiar with this impressive geological marvel, their lives intertwined with its rugged terrain and the life-giving waters of the Gunnison River.
The story of European exploration in the area begins in 1765, when Spanish expeditions, led by Juan Rivera, traversed the vast mountains and valleys of Colorado in search of a passage to the California coast. These early explorers, drawn by the promise of new routes and territories, passed by the canyon, followed by another Spanish expedition 11 years later. The early 1800s saw fur trappers navigating the area, driven by the pursuit of valuable game. However, it would be another half-century before any official exploration of the canyon’s depths and intricacies was undertaken.
In 1853, Captain John W. Gunnison, a name forever linked to the area, led an expedition tasked with surveying a potential route for a transcontinental railroad. The formidable terrain of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado proved to be an insurmountable obstacle. Gunnison, acknowledging the sheer impracticality of constructing a railway through such a rugged landscape, declared the area unsuitable and shifted his focus to Utah. Tragically, Gunnison, along with all but four of the eleven members of his group, were killed by a band of Paiute Indians on October 26, 1853.
Despite Gunnison’s initial assessment, the discovery of rich mineral deposits in Colorado’s western slopes reignited interest in the possibility of traversing the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado by rail. Surveyors and engineers once again turned their attention to the daunting challenge of finding a viable path through the canyon’s formidable rock walls. By the early 1880s, the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, a company with ambitious westward expansion plans, embarked on a daring endeavor. They set about the task of blasting and carving a narrow-gauge railroad from the canyon’s unforgiving rock faces – a feat previously deemed impossible. In August 1882, against all odds, the first Denver & Rio Grande train successfully emerged from the canyon, reaching the construction camp at the end of the tracks on Cimarron Creek.
The construction camp at Cimarron, initially a collection of tents, quickly transformed into a bustling railroad town. By the end of the year, it boasted a roundhouse, station facilities, numerous businesses, the ubiquitous saloons of the era, and a population exceeding 300 residents. Cimarron became a vital hub for the railroad and a testament to the tenacity and ingenuity of those who sought to conquer the challenges presented by the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado.
The sheer audacity and grandeur of the railroad journey through the canyon captured the imagination of Rudyard Kipling, the renowned author, who experienced the passage firsthand in 1889. His vivid description paints a dramatic picture of the experience: "We entered a gorge, remote from the sun, where the rocks were two thousand feet sheer, and where a rock-splintered river roared and howled ten feet below a track which seemed to have been built on the simple principle of dropping miscellaneous dirt into the river and pinning a few rails a-top. There was a glory, a wonder, and a mystery about the mad ride, which I felt keenly… until I had to offer prayers for the safety of the train."
For the next 67 years, engineers piloting trains through the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado navigated the route with a mixture of awe and trepidation. The winter months posed particular dangers, with avalanches and rockfalls posing constant threats. Engineers and their crews lived with the uncertainty of whether their train would be the next to be swept into the icy waters of the Gunnison River. Despite the inherent risks and the need for constant maintenance and repairs, the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad capitalized on the dramatic scenery, promoting its Black Canyon route as the cornerstone of its "Scenic Line of the World" passenger promotions and featuring the iconic Curecanti Needle on its emblem.
While the railroad’s primary purpose was to transport ore from the area’s mines, the company also offered scenic excursions to cater to tourists eager to experience the canyon’s splendor. A subsidiary of the D&RG, the "Rio Grande Hotel Company," established the "Black Canyon Hotel and Eating House," which quickly gained a reputation for its hospitality. As mining activity declined, the town’s population dwindled. Cimarron then became a gathering point for cattlemen, who used the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad to ship their cattle and sheep to market. However, with the rise of trucking, Cimarron’s rail yards and corrals fell into disuse. The last train to traverse the tracks through the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado, from Gunnison to Cimarron, was a scenic excursion in 1949.
Shortly after this final scenic journey, the rails, ties, and corrals were dismantled. Over time, the depot, roundhouse, hotel, saloons, ice plant, and individual homes that once comprised the bustling town of Cimarron also disappeared. Today, the National Park Service maintains a visitor center, campground, and picnic area on the site of the former town. An exhibit featuring authentic railroad cars serves as a reminder of the area’s railroad history. A short drive north of Cimarron lies the remains of the last standing D & RG Narrow Gauge Trestle crossing the Cimarron River, a relic of Cimarron’s past that is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The site also features Engine 278, a coal tender, a boxcar, and a caboose that were used on the many trips through the canyon. Cimarron is located just south of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado National Park and just west of the Curecanti National Recreation Area.
The sheer magnitude and geological significance of the canyon were recognized in 1933 when it was designated a National Monument. On October 21, 1999, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado received further recognition with the addition of 10,000 wilderness acres and its elevation to National Park status.
Within the park’s 14-mile stretch, visitors are treated to breathtaking views of the rugged canyon walls and glimpses of the Gunnison River flowing more than 2,000 feet below. The park is also home to a diverse array of wildlife, including elk, bear, deer, wild turkey, bighorn sheep, and hundreds of bird species. Visitors can enjoy a variety of activities, including hiking, biking, cross-country skiing, fishing, camping, and horseback riding.
The park’s main attraction is the scenic drive along the south rim, located approximately 15 miles east of Montrose, Colorado, via U.S. Hwy 50 and CO Hwy 347. The north rim, which is closed during the winter months, is situated about 11 miles south of Crawford, Colorado, via CO Hwy 92 and North Rim Road. Access to the river is possible via a steep, unmaintained trail that requires approximately 4 hours to hike down and 6 hours to hike back up.