Brookville, Kansas – Another Crazy Cowtown
Brookville, Kansas, a name synonymous with the rugged spirit of the Old West, stands as a testament to the transformative power of the railroad and the enduring allure of the American frontier. Like many other Kansas cowtowns, Brookville owes its existence to the westward expansion of the Kansas Pacific Railroad, which reached the area in 1867, forever altering the landscape and destiny of this small prairie settlement. Situated approximately 15 miles southwest of Salina, Brookville began as a crucial point along the burgeoning railway line, a place where the iron horse met the vast, open range.
The genesis of Brookville is intertwined with the story of John Crittenden, its first settler. However, the true impetus for the town’s initial growth was the Kansas Pacific Railroad, which promptly established its roundhouse and shops, laying the foundation for a bustling community. These initial structures served not only as vital hubs for railway operations but also as symbols of progress and opportunity, drawing settlers and entrepreneurs to the nascent town.
The early days of Brookville were not without peril. The very year the railroad arrived, the burgeoning settlement faced a significant threat from Native American tribes, who rightfully viewed the railroad’s encroachment as a violation of their ancestral hunting grounds. A large contingent of warriors descended upon the town, forcing the inhabitants to seek refuge within the sturdy confines of the railroad roundhouse. In a desperate attempt to protect themselves, the townsfolk hastily erected a barricade, transforming the roundhouse into a makeshift fortress.
The Native American warriors, undeterred by the barricade, surrounded the building and attempted to set it ablaze by piling railroad ties against its walls. The situation grew dire, but the quick thinking and ingenuity of the railroad crew saved the day. They commandeered a steam engine and, with a deafening roar, rammed it through the roundhouse doors, scattering the attackers in a moment of unexpected chaos. The railroad crew then embarked on a daring mission to Salina to seek assistance. Upon their arrival in Salina, a grim discovery was made: a deceased Native American warrior was found entangled in the train’s wheels, a stark reminder of the violent clash between progress and tradition.
Despite the initial conflict, the Kansas Pacific Railroad remained committed to developing Brookville into a significant shipping center. In April 1870, the railroad officially surveyed and laid out the townsite, meticulously planning its streets and infrastructure. The main thoroughfare was strategically aligned east-west, mirroring the path of the railroad tracks, a testament to the railway’s central role in the town’s development. M.P. Wyman constructed the first house, marking the beginning of residential expansion, and George Snyder established the first store, catering to the growing needs of the community. On February 2, 1870, Brookville officially gained a post office, solidifying its status as a recognized settlement.
The burgeoning town experienced rapid growth, prompting expansions to its boundaries in June and September of 1870. This swift development culminated in Brookville‘s incorporation as a city of the third class, with William Brownhill serving as its first mayor. The town experienced an explosion of entrepreneurial activity, with numerous businesses springing up to serve the needs of its growing population. Among these were three hotels, one of which, the Brookville Hotel, housed a restaurant initially known as the Cowtown Café. This establishment would become a local institution, operating for over a century and etching its name into the town’s culinary history.
For a period, Brookville held the distinction of being the westernmost station on the Kansas Pacific Railway from Salina, transforming it into a vital shipping point. Cattle driven north from Indian Territory (present-day Oklahoma) and Texas along the Chisholm Trail were loaded onto freight cars bound for eastern markets. The convergence of cattle drives and railroad transport fueled the town’s economy and solidified its reputation as a bustling cowtown. However, the railroad’s attempt to prohibit liquor sales within city limits, a condition of granting the townsite right-of-way, proved unsuccessful. Saloonkeepers, recognizing the demand from thirsty cowboys, openly defied the restriction, contributing to the town’s wild and untamed atmosphere.
Brookville‘s population peaked in the 1870s, reaching approximately 800 residents. During this period of prosperity, the town boasted an impressive array of businesses, including four general merchandise stores, a furniture store, a hardware store, a jewelry store, a millinery shop, a wagon shop, a boot and shoe store, a drug store, a tobacco store, an elevator, a restaurant, a flour mill, two hotels, a livery stable, and two lumberyards. These establishments catered to the diverse needs of the community, providing essential goods and services to both residents and travelers passing through.
The Brookville Transcript, the town’s first newspaper, was established in November 1879 by Albin & Tupper, providing residents with local news and information. Around this time, the community also established a Methodist Church, further solidifying the social fabric of the town.
In 1880, a significant milestone was reached with the construction of the two-and-a-half-story brown sandstone Brookville Grade School. The schoolhouse, complete with a basement that served as both a classroom and lunchroom, became a central gathering place for the community, hosting various events and activities. The Saline County Journal lauded the school as "the pride and joy of that beautiful little city… a model of good taste and convenience in its arrangements. The four large, cheerful, and well-ventilated rooms were handsomely finished with pictures on the walls."
While the early 1880s saw Brookville thriving with a population of 600, supported by a diverse range of businesses, the town’s prosperity was not destined to last. The relocation of the railroad’s roundhouse to Junction City in 1889 dealt a severe blow to Brookville‘s economy, triggering a period of decline. By the turn of the century, the town’s population had dwindled to approximately 280. Despite this decline, Brookville managed to sustain essential services, including a bank, a newspaper, a post office, and a handful of businesses. In 1894, Gus and Mae Magnuson acquired the Brookville Hotel, transforming it into a renowned establishment known for its exceptional cuisine.
Throughout the 20th century, Brookville maintained its small-town character, experiencing fluctuations in population that sometimes brought it precariously close to becoming a ghost town. However, amidst the decline, the Brookville Hotel restaurant persevered, serving as a steadfast symbol of the town’s resilience.
By 1910, Brookville was connected to the Union Pacific Railroad and possessed a bank, a newspaper, telegraph and express offices, a money order post office with two rural routes, and a population of 280. In 1915, Helen Martin, daughter of Gus and Mae Magnuson, introduced the family-style chicken dinners that would become the restaurant’s signature offering, attracting visitors from far and wide. Helen inherited the hotel in 1933, and during World War II, the restaurant’s popularity soared as soldiers from nearby Camp Phillips and the Smoky Hill Air Base flocked to enjoy its home-style meals.
However, the construction of Interstate Highways I-70 and I-35 near Salina after the war led to another period of decline for Brookville. Despite these challenges, the Brookville Hotel Restaurant remained in operation until around the year 2000. The hotel building in Brookville was sold, and the restaurant relocated to Abilene, seeking to capitalize on its proximity to I-70. In Abilene, the Martin family continued to serve their famous chicken dinners in a building reminiscent of the original hotel. Sadly, the Abilene location fell victim to the pandemic and closed its doors in October 2020. However, there is hope for its revival, as new owners have acquired the property and plan to reopen the restaurant. Meanwhile, the original building in Brookville underwent extensive renovations by owners with aspirations of opening a new restaurant, but the project stalled, leaving the building boarded up and unfinished.
The historic two-story stone school continued to serve the community until 1996 when the school was consolidated with other districts. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places for years, maintaining its historical character. It was sold at some point and is used as a private residence today.
Today, Brookville remains a small town. According to the 2020 census, its population stood at 247. The community is served by Ell-Saline USD 307 public school district, with schools located in Brookville. Two churches continue to serve the community, and the post office remains open. The restored Mercantile now operates as the Sandstone Saloon, and a liquor store has been established in an old gas station. Brookville has largely become a bedroom community for commuters to Salina. Despite its diminished size, Brookville offers a glimpse into the past with its unpaved streets, sandstone buildings, and wooden storefronts, reminiscent of its heyday.