Cajon Pass & San Bernardino – Gateway to Southern California
Cajon Pass, a dramatic cleft separating the formidable San Gabriel and San Bernardino Mountains, stands as a pivotal geographical landmark. Its historical significance lies in its role as the primary, and for a time, only negotiable passage for wagon trains traversing the rugged terrain. This natural corridor served as a crucial intersection, a convergence point for several historic trails: the Mojave Trail, the Mormon Trail, and the Old Spanish Trail. Along these well-worn paths, a diverse tapestry of individuals – Native Americans, fur trappers, intrepid explorers, and seasoned scouts – made their way toward what would eventually blossom into the fertile San Bernardino Valley. The evolution of transportation through the pass is a story of progress. The first paved highway snaked its way through in 1916, undergoing several upgrades to accommodate the increasing flow of traffic until Interstate 15 ultimately superseded it in 1969, marking a new era of accessibility.
Once atop the Cajon Pass, near the Oak Hill exit, stood a beloved landmark: the historic Cajon Summit Inn. This Route 66 institution, a beacon for travelers since 1952, offered respite and sustenance to countless weary drivers. It was a survivor, a testament to the enduring appeal of the Mother Road. Sadly, this iconic establishment succumbed to the ravages of a California wildfire on August 16, 2016, leaving behind a void in the landscape and in the memories of those who frequented it.
As travelers descend through Cajon Pass, the keen-eyed observer can catch glimpses of the past, remnants of the old road that once wound its way through the mountains. Keep an eye out for faded "Eat" signs, partially obscured by roadside foliage, crumbling cabins that whisper tales of bygone eras, and fragments of the original pavement, tangible links to a less hurried time. These "ghosts" of the road serve as a poignant reminder of the pass’s rich history. Soon, the descent leads into the historically significant San Bernardino Valley, a land steeped in stories of its own.
The initial seeds of settlement in the San Bernardino area were sown by Spanish missionaries in the early 1800s. They established an outpost, a strategic location to support fellow missionaries traveling throughout the vast California territory, spreading their religious teachings to the indigenous populations. The valley had been home to two distinct Native American tribes for millennia prior to the arrival of the Spanish: the Serrano and the Cahuilla Indians, each with their own unique cultures and traditions, had thrived in the region for as long as 4,000 years.
The first mission was formally established on May 20, 1810, and christened "San Bernardino" in honor of the patron saint of that day in the Catholic calendar. Beyond their religious duties, the missionaries played a crucial role in introducing agricultural practices to the Native Americans, teaching them how to cultivate and irrigate crops. This knowledge transformed the valley, enabling it to flourish and support a growing population. A secondary mission, known as the Asistencia, was constructed in 1830, further solidifying the presence of the Spanish in the region. However, this outpost was plundered by Native American raiders in 1834 and subsequently passed into private ownership. Today, the Asistencia has been lovingly restored and stands as a historical landmark on Barton Road in the suburbs of Redlands, offering visitors a glimpse into the mission era.
The mission era drew to a close in 1834 when California’s Mexican Territorial Governor Figeroa decreed their closure. The abandoned mission site, however, did not fade into obscurity. It transitioned into an important stop along the bustling trading route known as the Old Spanish Trail. Renowned figures such as Kit Carson and Jedediah Strong, legendary frontiersmen and explorers, frequented this location, further cementing its place in the history of the American West. As the area developed, Spanish landowners established haciendas and ranchos, vast estates that shaped the landscape and economy of the region.
However, the tranquility of this burgeoning community was disrupted by the actions of desert Indians, who began raiding the ranchos and stealing herds of cattle. This persistent cattle rustling forced many ranchers to abandon their holdings and relocate, leaving the area vulnerable. The situation persisted until 1851 when approximately 500 Mormon settlers arrived in the valley, bringing with them a new sense of purpose and resolve. They purchased the sprawling 40,000-acre San Bernardino Rancho, establishing a settlement and constructing a stockade, which they named Fort San Bernardino, to provide protection against potential Indian raids. Interestingly, because the Mormons did not raise cattle or horses, they were largely left alone by the desert Indians. Families soon ventured beyond the confines of the stockade, establishing a more permanent and expansive community. By the time the City of San Bernardino was officially incorporated in 1854, it boasted a population of approximately 1,200 residents, a testament to the resilience and determination of its settlers. The strategic importance of Cajon Pass was evident in the ease of access it afforded to the developing valley.
In 1860, the discovery of gold in Holcomb Valley sparked a new chapter in the history of the San Bernardino region. William F. Holcomb, the man credited with the discovery, filed five gold claims, igniting a frenzy that drew prospectors from far and wide.
The allure of gold transformed the mountains surrounding San Bernardino into a hive of activity. Thousands of miners flocked to the area, driven by the hope of striking it rich. The mining settlement of Belleville, nestled in Holcomb Valley, experienced a meteoric rise, becoming the largest city in Southern California and even posing a challenge to San Bernardino for the title of county seat. Holcomb Valley proved to be the most significant gold find in Southern California, and local lore suggests that the primary gold "vein" remains undiscovered to this day, waiting to be unearthed. Today, the once-thriving city of Belleville stands as a ghost town, a silent reminder of the fleeting nature of boomtown prosperity. The Cajon Pass served as a crucial artery for transporting supplies and people to and from the burgeoning mining communities.
The year 1885 marked a turning point in the development of San Bernardino and its connection to the wider world. The Santa Fe Railroad completed its line through the Cajon Pass, establishing its first depot in a humble boxcar. This momentous event was soon followed by the arrival of the Union Pacific and Southern Railroads, converging on the city and transforming it into a vital trade center.
The ease of access provided by the railroads spurred further settlement and growth. By 1900, San Bernardino was home to more than 6,000 residents. In the early 1900s, farmers recognized the exceptional fertility of the valley’s soil, discovering its suitability for cultivating oranges. Soon, groves of these tropical fruits blanketed the landscape, stretching from the foothills of the mountains to the coastal plains, transforming the region into an agricultural powerhouse.
By 1910, the population of San Bernardino had doubled, exceeding 12,000 residents.
Recognizing the city’s strategic importance, the Santa Fe Railroad chose San Bernardino as the headquarters for its Pacific Coast Locomotive Works. In 1918, a grand new depot was completed, a testament to the city’s growing prominence. Designed in the Mission Revival style, the magnificent structure served as a passenger transportation hub and the railroad’s administrative offices. The opulent interior, adorned with polished tile walls and floors, housed dining areas, a telegraph office, and a Western Union office, catering to the needs of travelers and railroad employees alike.
A few years later, the depot was expanded to accommodate a Harvey House Restaurant, which opened its doors in 1921.
The Harvey Girls, impeccably dressed in starched black uniforms with crisp white bibbed aprons and starched white caps, provided a touch of elegance and hospitality. They served hot meals, freshly baked goods, and strong coffee to travelers and locals alike, becoming an integral part of the city’s social fabric.
In 1926, Route 66 was completed, passing directly through San Bernardino. The city responded quickly, embracing the influx of automobile travelers and providing them with motels, gas stations, and other essential services. Many of these establishments can still be seen today, offering a glimpse into the city’s Route 66 heritage.
Unfortunately, the rise of automobile travel led to a decline in rail travel. By the 1950s, the Harvey House Restaurant had closed its doors, marking the end of an era. The historic depot gradually fell into disrepair, a victim of changing times. However, in the mid-1990s, a collaborative effort between the San Bernardino Associated Governments and the City of San Bernardino aimed to revitalize the historic landmark. Today, the depot has been fully restored and serves as a transportation hub for Metrolink, a commuter rail service, Amtrak, and the offices of the San Bernardino Associated Governments, ensuring its continued relevance in the 21st century.
As San Bernardino evolved into the sprawling metropolitan city it is today, efforts were made to preserve other treasures from its rich past. Two alignments of Route 66 traversed San Bernardino, with the latter alignment now designated as Business 66. Along this route, visitors can find the original McDonald’s Restaurant, now home to the McDonald’s Route 66 Museum at 1398 N E Street, a testament to the city’s role in the history of fast food. Also located along this historic route is the California Theatre of Performing Arts, a landmark since 1928 and the site of Will Rogers’s last performance. The theater now features a mural of Mr. Rogers, honoring his legacy.
Along the older alignment, several motels and cafes can be found nestled among the newer buildings, including the Mitla Café at 602 N. Mt. Vernon Avenue. Established in 1937, this family-owned restaurant has been serving authentic Mexican cuisine since the early days of Route 66, offering a taste of the city’s culinary heritage.
Visitors to the San Bernardino area will undoubtedly notice the iconic natural landmark known as the Arrowhead, prominently displayed on the mountainside. Visible long before the arrival of white settlers, this geological phenomenon was formed by the natural uplifting of the soil and can be seen from as far as 30 miles away on a clear day. Numerous legends surround the Arrowhead, with the most popular being a Native American story that the Great Spirit created the arrow to guide them to their designated homeland. The Arrowhead, measuring 1,360 feet long and 450 feet wide, was once believed to be man-made due to its perfect proportions.