Carson, Colorado – Atop the Continental Divide
Nestled high in the rugged landscape of the Colorado Rockies, Carson stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West. Perched at an impressive elevation of over 12,000 feet, near the crest of the Continental Divide, this once-thriving mining town offers a glimpse into a bygone era, a time when dreams of fortune drew prospectors to the most remote corners of the country. Today, Carson, along with its predecessor, Old Carson, serves as a poignant reminder of the boom-and-bust cycles that shaped the history of Colorado’s mining communities.
A Location of Isolation and Majesty
Carson’s location, approximately 16 miles southwest of Lake City, is both its defining characteristic and the source of its challenges. Situated on a spur south of the renowned Alpine Loop Backcountry Byway, the town is accessible via a demanding route up Wager Gulch. This rugged road, suitable only for high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicles, winds its way through a landscape that is as breathtaking as it is unforgiving.
The journey to Carson is an adventure in itself, a testament to the determination of those who once called this place home. The turnoff, marked by a sign reading "Wager Gulch/Carson," signals the beginning of a climb that rewards travelers with stunning vistas and a tangible connection to the past.
The Discovery and Early Days of Carson
The story of Carson begins with John Christopher Carson, a prospector who, in 1876, discovered promising float samples along the Continental Divide. While he initially deferred acting on this discovery, instead heading to Leadville in search of more immediate opportunities, Carson returned in 1881. This time, he staked several claims on both sides of the Continental Divide, laying the foundation for what would become the Bonanza King Mine.
The arrival of other prospectors led to the formal organization of the Carson Mining District. By 1882, a camp had sprung up, known variously as Carson Camp, Carson City, or simply Carson. That year witnessed a flurry of activity, with over 150 claims staked and a dozen prosperous mines established. Among these were the Bachelor, Chandler, St. Jacob, Kit Carson, George III, Maid of Carson, and St. Lawrence mines. While silver was the primary target, the ore also yielded gold, lead, copper, iron, and zinc, adding to the allure of the area. The St. Jacob mine alone produced over $1 million in ore during its operational lifetime, a testament to the riches hidden within these mountains. Due to the prominent Bachelor Mine, the camp was sometimes referred to as Bachelor Cabins, reflecting the predominantly male population of miners.
Life Atop the Divide: Challenges and Adaptations
Perry Eberhart, in his 1969 book, Guide to Colorado Ghost Towns and Mining Camps, paints a vivid picture of Carson’s unique geographical situation:
"The town sat directly on the continental divide, with water falling on one side of town heading toward the Lake Fork of the Pacific drainage, and water on the other side of town flowing into the Lost Trail Creek, of the Rio Grande system, headed toward the Atlantic Basin. With such a snow-bound location, the town didn’t last long."
This description highlights the town’s precarious location, straddling the Continental Divide and subject to harsh weather conditions. The challenges posed by the environment led to a gradual shift, with part of the town migrating lower down into Wager Gulch by 1883. This second site, situated at an altitude of 11,580 feet, just below the timberline, offered some respite from the elements.
In its early years, Carson lacked a proper road, further isolating the community. The remote location and severe winters hindered the development of the mines. It wasn’t until 1887 that a road suitable for pack trains was finally constructed. During the winter months, toboggans were often used to transport ore, a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of the miners. A post office was established in September 1889, with mail delivered from Lake City, providing a vital link to the outside world.
During Carson’s peak, from the 1880s to the early 1900s, the population rarely exceeded 50 people, typically hovering around 20. This small community eked out a living in one of the most challenging environments imaginable.
Decline and Legacy
The Panic of 1893, a nationwide economic downturn, temporarily stalled the development of the Carson mines. However, the discovery of rich gold deposits in 1896 breathed new life into the district, and mining activities resumed with renewed vigor. The Carson District reached its zenith in the early 1900s, with 400-500 miners working the mountaintop.
This period of prosperity, however, was short-lived. The loss of working capital, precipitated by Colonel C. F. Meek’s sale of his interests in 1902, dealt a severe blow to the community. A Gunnison newspaper reported that Carson was practically deserted by that same year, and the post office closed its doors the following year. By 1910, only 20 people remained in the town, a stark reminder of the fleeting nature of mining booms.
Carson Today: A Ghost Town Preserved
Today, Carson stands as a well-preserved ghost town, its buildings spared from the ravages of time and snowslides due to the cold, dry climate. Old Carson, located further up the road on the Pacific side of the Continental Divide, is marked only by fallen logs, remnants of structures that once stood there. However, the site offers unparalleled views of the Weminuche Wilderness Area and the iconic Rio Grande Pyramid.
Both Carson and Old Carson are situated on private property, but the owners graciously allow visitors, provided that the property is treated with respect. This access allows history enthusiasts and adventurers alike to explore these remnants of the past and connect with the stories of those who once called this place home.
Planning Your Visit
The road to Carson and Old Carson is a challenging one, requiring careful planning and preparation. As one of the highest mountain roads in Colorado, it is narrow and steep in places, with several tight switchbacks. The surface is rough, with gravel and embedded rocks, and there may be stream crossings up to 12 inches deep. For these reasons, this trip is not recommended for novice four-wheel-drive enthusiasts. The road is also open to Off-Highway Vehicles (OHV’s), motorcycles, hikers, and bicyclists, so visitors should be aware of other users and exercise caution.
To access the site, travel south from Lake City on CO-149 S/Gunnison Ave for 2.5 miles and turn right onto Co Rd 30, travel about nine miles west to County Rd 36, and five miles south to Carson.
Carson, Colorado, is more than just a ghost town; it is a living testament to the enduring spirit of the American West. Its remote location, challenging access, and well-preserved remnants of the past offer a unique and unforgettable experience for those who venture to its heights.
©Kathy Weiser-Alexander, updated February 2021.
Also See:
- Alpine Loop National Back Country Byway
- Byways & Historic Trails
- Colorado Ghost Towns
- Lake City, Colorado
Sources:
- Bancroft, Caroline; Unique Ghost Towns and Mountain Spots, Johnson Publishing Co; 1967
- Historynet
- Lake City
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