Cimarron Route of the Santa Fe Trail in New Mexico
The Cimarron Route, a significant artery of the historic Santa Fe Trail, carved its way across the vast landscapes of the American Southwest. Also known as the Cimarron Cutoff and Cimarron Crossing, this path held a distinct allure for early traders, despite its challenging reputation for water scarcity. Its appeal stemmed from a crucial advantage: it offered a shorter, more efficient passage, shaving approximately 100 miles and up to ten days off the arduous journey compared to the Mountain Route. This efficiency, coupled with its suitability for wagon travel, quickly established the Cimarron Route as the preferred choice in the early days of the Santa Fe Trail’s vibrant history.
This route, a testament to human ingenuity and determination, traversed a diverse tapestry of terrain, from the rolling plains of Oklahoma to the rugged landscapes of northeastern New Mexico. The Cimarron Route became a vital commercial link, facilitating the exchange of goods and ideas between the United States and Mexico during a formative period in the region’s history. Its legacy endures, etched into the land and woven into the stories of those who braved its challenges.
The Cimarron Route presented both opportunities and perils. While its shorter distance promised quicker profits, the scarcity of water posed a constant threat. Travelers relied on their knowledge of the land, the guidance of experienced scouts, and sheer resilience to overcome the hardships. Encounters with Native American tribes, sometimes peaceful and sometimes hostile, added another layer of complexity to the journey.
The significance of the Cimarron Route lies not only in its commercial importance but also in its role as a catalyst for cultural exchange and westward expansion. As wagons rumbled across the plains, they carried not only goods but also the seeds of new settlements, new industries, and new ways of life. The Cimarron Route played a vital role in shaping the destiny of the American Southwest, leaving an indelible mark on the region’s identity.
Today, remnants of the Cimarron Route can still be found scattered across the landscape, whispering tales of a bygone era. Historical markers, wagon ruts, and preserved landmarks serve as tangible reminders of the intrepid individuals who dared to traverse this challenging yet rewarding path. Exploring these sites offers a glimpse into the past, allowing us to appreciate the courage, resourcefulness, and enduring spirit of the Santa Fe Trail pioneers.
Trail Landmarks
The Cimarron Route is punctuated by several iconic landmarks that served as crucial navigational aids, campsites, and points of historical significance for those traversing the Santa Fe Trail. These landmarks offer a tangible connection to the past, allowing us to imagine the challenges and triumphs experienced by the early traders and travelers.
Rabbit Ears: As travelers ventured into New Mexico along the Cimarron Route, one of the first prominent features to greet them was Rabbit Ears, a distinctive mountain and butte formation sculpted by ancient volcanic activity. The larger western peak is known as Rabbit Ear Mountain, while its smaller eastern counterpart is Rabbit Ear Butte. The name itself is steeped in history, attributed to a Cheyenne Chief named Orejas de Conjeo (Rabbit Ears), who, according to local lore, perished in a battle with Spanish colonists in 1717 and is believed to be buried atop the mountain that now bears his name. Tradition suggests that the chief’s moniker stemmed from frostbite damage to his ears.
The area surrounding Rabbit Ears also witnessed a significant historical event in 1717. A Spanish expedition, comprised of around 500 soldiers, set out from Santa Fe to liberate Spanish prisoners held by the Comanche tribe. Under the command of Don Juan de Padilla, Carlos Fernandez, and Padro Pino, the expedition, armed with firearms, machetes, lances, and bows and arrows, launched a surprise attack on the Comanche camp near Rabbit Ears at dawn. The ensuing battle resulted in a massive slaughter, with hundreds of Comanche killed and 700 taken prisoner. This event, described as one of the bloodiest massacres of Native Americans in Western history, ultimately led to the liberation of the captives and deterred the Comanche from further hostilities against the Spaniards. The Santa Fe Trail passed both north and south of Rabbit Ears, leaving travelers with approximately 200 miles remaining before reaching their destination of Santa Fe. In recognition of its historical importance, Rabbit Ears was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1963. It is situated five miles northwest of Clayton, New Mexico, accessible via NM 370 on private land.
McNees Crossing: Continuing westward from Rabbit Ears, Santa Fe Trail travelers journeyed from Oklahoma into present-day New Mexico, eventually reaching McNees Crossing. This crucial crossing point, a rocky ford over the North Canadian River, known locally as Corrumpa Creek, derives its name from a tragic event. In the autumn of 1828, Robert McNees, a young scout traveling with an eastbound caravan, and his companion, Daniel Munro, were attacked by Native Americans while scouting ahead of their group in search of water. McNees was killed instantly, while Munro suffered mortal wounds. The crossing also served as a popular campground. In 1831, a group of traders led by Josiah Gregg celebrated the Fourth of July here, marking the first such celebration in present-day New Mexico. The site has retained much of its original appearance over the years. McNees Crossing, also a National Historic Landmark, is located on private land with unrestricted access, approximately 3.5 miles west of the Oklahoma state line, and then 1.5 miles south on New Mexico Highway 406.
Turkey Creek Camp: About seven miles north of Rabbit Ears Mountain lay Turkey Creek Camp. Despite the challenges posed by crossing Turkey Creek itself, this location offered a valuable combination of resources for Santa Fe Trail travelers. It provided access to water, a nearby supply of wood, and ample grazing land for livestock, making it a more desirable campsite compared to McNees Crossing. From this vantage point, travelers could observe several prominent landmarks, including Rabbit Ears, Mt. Dora, Round Mound (Mount Clayton), and Sierra Grande. George Sibley, a Santa Fe Trail surveyor, described the landmarks as "the only relief for the eye, or solace for the mind" in the vast expanse. These landmarks served as reassuring signs that their journey was nearing its end, though many miles still lay ahead.
Rabbit Ears Creek Camp: Located about six miles north of Mount Dora, New Mexico, on private land, Rabbit Ears Creek Camp was renowned as an excellent campground. It boasted a reliable source of spring water, abundant grass for grazing, and a ready supply of wood and game for sustenance. Numerous wagon trains reportedly utilized this site as a resting place, often staying for a couple of days to replenish their supplies and allow their animals to recover. Remarkably, wagon ruts from this era are still visible in the area, providing tangible evidence of the site’s historical significance.
Mount Dora: South of Rabbit Ears Creek Camp, Mount Dora served as another landmark for travelers along the Santa Fe Trail, although it was not as prominent or widely recognized as Round Mound. It is situated north of US Highway 64/87, between the towns of Clayton and Mount Dora, New Mexico.
Round Mound (Mount Clayton): As travelers departed Turkey Creek Camp, Round Mound, now known as Mount Clayton, became their primary navigational guide. The trail passed to the north of this distinctive geological feature, and travelers frequently commented on its unique shape. An illustration in Josiah Gregg’s 1844 publication, Commerce of the Prairies, depicts a wagon train as viewed from the mound, providing a visual representation of its significance to those traversing the trail. Today, Mount Clayton is located four miles south of US Highway 64/87 and New Mexico Highway 120 at Grenville, New Mexico.
Sierra Grande: Similar to Mount Dora, Sierra Grande, an extinct volcano, served as a secondary landmark along this section of the Santa Fe Trail. While not as prominent as Round Mound or Rabbit Ears, it provided a valuable reference point for travelers navigating the vast landscape.
Point of Rocks: With Rabbit Ears and Round Mound receding in the distance, wagon masters focused their attention on navigating towards Point of Rocks. This prominent outcropping of rocks and a mesa offered a vital spring for water and an abundance of game for sustenance. Evidence of past human activity, including tipi rings and visible trail ruts, can still be observed in the area. Utilizing Point of Rocks as a westward guide, wagon trains eventually arrived at the Rock Crossing of the Canadian River. Situated within Jicarilla Apache territory, this area was the site of the tragic attack on J.W. White’s party in 1849. Kit Carson was a member of the military contingent organized to rescue White’s wife and daughter. The site, located on private land with unrestricted access, protects the grave of Isaac Allen, who died in 1848, as well as eleven unmarked graves. Point of Rocks is situated approximately 20 miles east of Springer, New Mexico, along US Hwy 56 to C-52. Turning left (north) for 8 miles leads to the Cimarron Cutoff. A right turn (northeast) and a drive of 2 miles will take you to the site.
Rock Crossing of the Canadian River: From Point of Rocks, many caravans traveling along the Cimarron Route proceeded southwest, crossing the Canadian River before continuing towards Wagon Mound and Las Vegas, New Mexico. The Canadian River, characterized by its numerous deep canyons, possessed only one favorable rocky crossing point, which saved considerable time for travelers in the region. This crossing featured a natural stone floor for a short distance. Upstream, the riverbed was sandy and difficult to traverse, while downstream, a deep, rocky canyon made crossing impossible. This location was often considered the true entry point into Mexico, and Mexican troops were sometimes dispatched to escort traders back to Santa Fe. It was also the site of several Indian raids on caravans. Wagon ruts remain visible, leading to and from this crucial crossing point. The crossing is located on private property two miles south of US Highway 56 in Colfax County, New Mexico.
Santa Clara Spring: Situated near Wagon Mound, Santa Clara Spring served as an important rest stop, though it was also a frequent target for Indian attacks, including the infamous Wagon Mound Massacre. The cemetery at this location contains the remains of Charles Fraker, a freighter of German and Cherokee descent. He was married to María de Luz, the daughter of Manuel LeFevre, a French-Canadian trapper who resided in Taos in the 1820s. LeFevre’s other daughter, Dolores, married "Uncle Dick" Wootton, a prominent figure associated with Raton Pass. Santa Clara Spring is located on private land approximately two miles northwest of Wagon Mound. Situated at the head of a small canyon, this spring was utilized by Santa Fe Trail travelers and continues to serve as the water source for the town of Wagon Mound.
Wagon Mound: The main trail continued to Wagon Mound, a distinctive volcanic outcropping of lava that served as one of the most prominent landmarks along the Cimarron Route. Its shape is said to resemble a Conestoga wagon being pulled by oxen. For those traveling from Missouri, the sight of Wagon Mound signified that they were approximately 100 miles from their final destination of Santa Fe. When the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad arrived in 1881, this location was a natural choice for establishing a town, which continues to thrive today under the name Wagon Mound.
Pilot Knobs: The Pilot Knobs are located 2 miles west of Wagon Mound in Mora County, New Mexico. While they served as a landmark for wagon trains, they were not as significant or easily visible as the more prominent Wagon Mound located immediately to the east.
From Wagon Mound, the trail proceeded to Watrous, where it converged with the Mountain Route before reaching Santa Fe, marking the end of the arduous journey along the Cimarron Route.