Darwin, California Barely Hangs On
Nestled on the rugged western edge of Death Valley, within the vast expanse of Inyo County, California, lies the almost-forgotten town of Darwin. Once a bustling hub of activity and the largest settlement in the county, Darwin now exists as a semi-ghost town, a testament to the boom-and-bust cycles that defined the American West. Its story is one of ambitious prospectors, rich mineral discoveries, rapid growth, devastating setbacks, and a tenacious spirit that continues to flicker in the handful of residents who still call it home.
The genesis of Darwin can be traced back to the early 1860s. A prospecting expedition, spearheaded by Dr. E. Darwin French, embarked from Visalia, California, with the ambitious goal of locating the legendary Lost Gunsight Mine. This elusive vein, long whispered about as "Silver Mountain," beckoned fortune-seekers with the promise of untold riches. While French’s party never stumbled upon the mythical Gunsight Mine or the fabled Silver Mountain, their journey through the arid and unforgiving landscape southeast of Owens Lake proved far from fruitless. They unearthed significant silver outcrops, a discovery that ignited a spark of excitement and led them to stake several claims. Returning to Visalia to register their claims, they unwittingly set in motion a chain of events that would transform the desolate area.
News of the silver discovery spread like wildfire, attracting a swarm of prospectors eager to make their own fortunes. Following in the footsteps of French’s party, hundreds descended upon the area, leading to the rapid development of mines and the birth of a rugged mining town initially known as Coso Junction. This initial boom, fueled by the lure of silver, laid the foundation for the future growth of the region.
Around 1870, further explorations in the Coso Range revealed even more deposits of gold, silver, and lead. These new discoveries led to the formation of the New Coso Mining District in 1874. It was then that the settlement of Darwin was officially established, named in honor of Dr. Darwin French, the pioneer explorer and prospector whose initial expedition had sparked the mining frenzy. Darwin quickly evolved into the primary commercial center of the region. By the end of 1875, the town boasted an impressive array of amenities and businesses. Two smelters processed the ore extracted from the numerous mines. Some 20 operating mines extracted the precious metals from the earth. A post office provided essential communication with the outside world. Graded streets offered a semblance of order amidst the chaotic growth. A drug store catered to the health needs of the residents. A hotel provided lodging for travelers and newcomers. Three restaurants satisfied the appetites of the bustling population. The ever-present saloons, synonymous with the Wild West, offered a place for relaxation and social interaction. A newspaper disseminated information and documented the town’s progress. Over 200 frame houses provided shelter for the growing population, which exceeded 700 residents. Among the numerous mines, the Defiance Mine stood out as the principal producer in the district. Other profitable mines, including the Argus-Sterling, Christmas Gift, Lucky Jim, Custer, Independence, Keystone, Thompson, and Wonder Mines, contributed to the area’s overall prosperity.
The following year, Darwin experienced continued growth, supporting a population of over 1,000 people. At that time, it reigned as the largest town in Inyo County, a testament to its economic significance and rapid development. The town’s Centennial Celebration on July 4, 1876, was a grand affair, second only to the county seat of Independence in terms of scale and festivities. While Darwin had established an image of permanence, it simultaneously acquired a reputation for being a rowdy and violent town. Its isolation, coupled with its distance from the county seat of Independence, contributed to a lawless atmosphere. Gunplay, assaults, and stage robberies were commonplace, reflecting the challenges of maintaining order in a remote and rapidly growing mining community. Despite the violence, the town continued to expand, peaking at around 3,500 residents in 1877. However, this period of prosperity was not destined to last.
In 1878, a devastating smallpox epidemic swept through the community, claiming lives and disrupting daily life. Simultaneously, a national economic slowdown dealt a severe blow to Darwin’s economy. Production slowed down, and mine owners responded by scaling back wages, leading to increased discontent and further violence within the community. The combination of disease, economic hardship, and social unrest created a volatile environment that hastened the town’s decline.
The signs of decline became increasingly evident. In September 1878, the local newspaper office, a vital source of information and community cohesion, closed its doors. The publisher, T.S. Harris, recognizing the shifting fortunes of the town, packed up the presses and headed north towards the booming mining town of Bodie, seeking new opportunities. Many of the miners, facing unemployment and dwindling prospects, followed Harris’s example, leaving Darwin in search of a more promising future. Despite the exodus, a report in the Independence newspaper the following month indicated that Darwin still retained a population of 200-300 people, supported by four stores, three restaurants, five saloons, and a drug store. However, this semblance of stability was soon shattered by another disaster. On April 30, 1879, a suspected arson fire erupted in the Darwin Hotel, a central landmark in the town. The fire quickly spread, resulting in the loss of 14 businesses, including several stores, offices, the hotel itself, numerous saloons, and the post office. The devastation caused by the fire dealt a crippling blow to Darwin’s already weakened infrastructure and economy.
Although significantly diminished from its former glory, Darwin managed to avoid complete extinction. In 1880, the census recorded a population of approximately 85 people who still considered the town their home. In 1902, the post office, a vital link to the outside world, temporarily closed, symbolizing the town’s reduced importance. However, it would later reopen, a small victory that hinted at a lingering resilience.
During the early 1900s, a resurgence of mining activity occurred in southern Inyo County. This revival was driven by the increasing value of copper, a metal that had previously been discarded as worthless and left in the dumps. As the demand for copper grew, mining operations in the Darwin area were revitalized. In 1907, Senator Tasker L. Oddie of Nevada, recognizing the potential of the region, acquired nine claims in the Darwin area. Simultaneously, George Nixon and George Wingfield, prominent figures from the Goldfield, Nevada mining boom, took over some properties. The Lucky Jim Mine experienced a surge in production, shipping lead-silver ore to smelters in Salt Lake City, Utah. A new smelter opened in nearby Keeler, further stimulating mining activity in the region. During the ensuing decade, more mines opened, and older ones were re-worked, breathing new life into the struggling community. A new hotel was constructed, and the town began to show signs of recovery. However, this renewed period of prosperity was once again interrupted by a series of devastating fires. In August 1917, another fire blazed through the town, destroying a service garage, the new hotel, a saloon, and three homes. Less than a year later, another fire swept down the other side of Main Street, consuming more homes and businesses. These repeated fires inflicted significant damage and hampered the town’s efforts to rebuild.
Despite the setbacks caused by the fires, the Darwin District, particularly the Lucky Jim and Christmas Gift Mines, continued to thrive, fueled by the increasing price of silver. Another notable development occurred on Mt. Ophir, where a company town was constructed to house the miners employed by the Wagner & Company Mine. This dedicated housing underscored the importance of the mining operations to the region.
In 1926, the construction of the Eichbaum Toll Road through Darwin and into Death Valley brought a new influx of tourists and visitors to the area. Tourist cabins and service businesses sprang up to cater to the needs of the travelers, diversifying the town’s economy beyond mining. By 1927, Darwin’s future appeared promising, as the district contained ores of nearly all the valuable metallic minerals, including silver, lead, gold, tungsten, and copper. Production for the area from 1870 to October 1938 reached approximately $3 to $5 million, with some estimates reaching as high as $7 million by 1945. The mines were temporarily shut down during World War II to support the war effort, as resources were diverted to national defense.
Following the War, in 1945, the Wagner Mine and other operations were acquired by the Anaconda Copper Mining Company. Under Anaconda’s management, the Wagner Mine became the number one lead mine in California, producing two-thirds of the state’s total lead output. The mine remained in operation until the 1970s, contributing significantly to the local economy. The total value of all lead, silver, and zinc produced during this period was estimated at $15 million.
Today, the population of Darwin, California is estimated to be just around 35 people. On the hillside of Mt. Ophir, approximately half a mile northwest of the "downtown" area, the remnants of the company camp can still be observed. Decaying rows of company houses, Quonset huts, and mill buildings stand as silent reminders of the town’s mining past. The downtown area retains several buildings, once bustling with businesses but now closed and abandoned. Scattered throughout the landscape are rusted mining machinery and the remains of the old Defiance smelter, complete with rusted-out hulks of vehicles and trailers, creating a poignant tableau of decay and abandonment.
Darwin is located about 24 miles southeast of Keeler, California, a relatively short distance that highlights its isolation within the vast desert landscape. The town stands as a poignant reminder of the boom-and-bust cycles that shaped the American West, a testament to the enduring allure of mineral wealth, and a symbol of the resilience of the human spirit in the face of adversity.