Del Rio to Sanderson on the Pecos Trail
The journey from Del Rio to Sanderson, Texas, along the historic Del Rio to Sanderson on the Pecos Trail, unveils a tapestry woven with threads of a rich and often rugged past. This approximately 120-mile stretch traverses the heart of the Chihuahuan Desert, a vast and arid landscape punctuated by the subtle undulations of small mountain ranges and the life-giving arteries of river valleys carved by the Rio Grande and the Pecos River.
This route, connecting the county seat of Val Verde County, Del Rio, with the county seat of Terrell County, Sanderson, presents a unique opportunity to glimpse into the diverse layers of history embedded within this southwestern region. From the ancient artistry of Native American settlements dating back 4,000 years at Seminole Canyon to the boisterous Wild West era epitomized by Judge Roy Bean in Langtry, the story of the Del Rio to Sanderson on the Pecos Trail is one of resilience, adaptation, and the enduring spirit of the American West. The echoes of railroad expansion, the remnants of once-thriving ranches, and the ghostly vestiges of forgotten towns all contribute to the captivating narrative of this desert passage.
The story of the Del Rio to Sanderson on the Pecos Trail is closely tied to the development of transportation infrastructure in the region. The arrival of the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad was a pivotal moment, spurring the establishment of towns and stations strategically positioned to provide essential resources for the steam engines that powered the iron horse. These settlements quickly became vital hubs for the burgeoning ranching industry, facilitating the shipment of cattle to markets far and wide. Later, the paving of a highway through the area gave rise to smaller roadside establishments, offering rest and service to travelers braving the vast expanse of the Chihuahuan Desert.
Let’s explore some of the notable landmarks and historical sites that dot the Del Rio to Sanderson on the Pecos Trail:
Lake Amistad
A mere ten miles northwest of Del Rio, the landscape dramatically transforms as you encounter Lake Amistad. This international reservoir, shared between the United States and Mexico, is a veritable oasis in the desert. Its shimmering waters invite visitors to engage in a variety of water-based recreational activities, from boating and fishing to swimming and waterskiing. The surrounding landscape is equally compelling, offering opportunities for camping and exploration amidst prehistoric rock art sites and a diverse array of plant and animal life. The Amistad National Recreation Area, managed by the National Park Service, ensures the preservation and accessibility of this natural and cultural treasure.
Comstock
Approximately 29 miles northwest of Del Rio lies Comstock, Texas. Like many small towns in this region, Comstock owes its existence to the arrival of the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad in 1882. Originally platted as Sotol (or Soto) City, the town was soon renamed in honor of John B. Comstock, a railroad dispatcher. Despite the establishment of a post office in 1888, Comstock’s remote location and limited resources hindered its rapid growth. The town experienced its most prosperous period between 1888 and 1910, serving as a crucial stop on the Deaton Stage Line, which connected Comstock’s railroad depot with the city of Ozona, located some 60 miles to the north. Today, while still home to several hundred people, Comstock bears the unmistakable appearance of a ghost town, with numerous abandoned buildings serving as silent reminders of its past.
Seminole Canyon State Park
A short ten-mile drive northwest of Comstock leads to Seminole Canyon State Park. This historical site, encompassing over 2,000 acres, showcases the dramatic beauty of jagged canyons carved through the Chihuahuan Desert, where the Pecos River converges with the Rio Grande. The area boasts a rich human history spanning some 12,000 years, with evidence of early inhabitants who sought shelter in the natural rock formations carved into the canyon walls. Thousands of years later, another culture, known as the "Archaic people," occupied these dry rock shelters, leaving behind a legacy of approximately 200 rock paintings that adorn the canyon walls. These pictographs, considered among the most outstanding examples in Texas and the world, represent the Lower Pecos River Style, attributed to the Middle Archaic period of 4,000 years ago.
The Pecos River & Frontier Folklore
The Pecos River, a major tributary of the Rio Grande, meanders through New Mexico and Texas before emptying into its larger counterpart near Del Rio. Renowned for its association with frontier folklore, the Pecos River originates in the Pecos Wilderness, carving its way through rugged granite canyons and cascading over waterfalls. Its 926-mile journey takes it past small, high-mountain meadows before reaching the arid plains of West Texas. The name "Pecos," properly pronounced "pay-cuss," derives from the Keresan name for the Pecos Pueblo. The river played a crucial role in the Spanish exploration of Texas. In the latter half of the 19th century, the phrase "West of the Pecos" became synonymous with the untamed frontiers of the Wild West.
Vinegarroon & the Pecos River Railroad Bridge
A few miles beyond the Pecos River Highway Bridge, a scenic overlook marks the location of the former townsite of Vinegarroon. From this vantage point, the impressive Pecos River Railroad Bridge can be seen in the distance. The Pecos River long presented a significant obstacle to transportation, particularly across the deep gorge that marked its confluence with the Rio Grande. The Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad overcame this challenge in 1882 by constructing the first railroad bridge over the Pecos River. Construction began in late 1891 and was completed within three months at a cost exceeding $250,000. This engineering marvel, known at the time as the Pecos River Viaduct, spanned 2,180 feet and towered 321 feet above the river. Vinegarroon was later abandoned, with most of its residents relocating to nearby Langtry. Today, no physical remnants of old Vinegarroon remain.
Shumla- Another Railroad Casualty
Approximately eight miles northwest of Seminole Canyon State Park lies the site of Shumla. Another stop along the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad, this station emerged around 1882, concurrent with the development of other railroad towns in the area. In the preceding year, hundreds of Chinese and European immigrants labored to connect the eastern and western sections of America’s second and southernmost transcontinental rail line. Today, only a scattering of buildings remains, a testament to the town’s decline.
Bonfire Shelter
This large rock shelter served as the site of several prehistoric buffalo jumps. More than 11,000 years ago, during the early Paleoindian era at the end of the last Ice Age, the people of the time began to herd buffalo over the edge of a cliff overlooking the shelter, situated within a narrow box canyon that opens into the Rio Grande. This technique of stampeding buffalo off cliffs is commonly associated with the Plains Indians, hundreds of miles to the north. Bonfire Shelter represents the southernmost buffalo kill site in North America and also the oldest known site. Stone tools, including Paleo-Indian arrowheads, and radiocarbon dating of charcoal from small hearths indicate activity dating back 10,000 years ago, when herds of giant bison were driven over the cliff above.
Langtry – Home of the Only Law West of the Pecos
Langtry, like several other historic towns in the region, traces its origins to the construction of the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad in 1881. Initially a grading camp for railroad workers, it was first known as Eagle Nest, named after a nearby creek. When the need for a Justice of the Peace arose, Roy Bean readily volunteered, becoming the "legal authority" in the area on August 2, 1882. He initially administered his "justice" from his tent saloon in Vinegarroon, another railroad camp to the south. As the majority of railroad workers shifted to Langtry, Judge Roy Bean followed suit, establishing another tent saloon on railroad land.
Pumpville
From Langtry, the Pecos Trail continues through the Chihuahuan Desert on US Highway 90, eventually reaching a Texas Historic Marker commemorating the town of Pumpville. Situated approximately 2.5 miles north of the historic marker on FM Road 1865, Pumpville began as a water station for the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad in 1882. It soon acquired a telegraph office and a small crew for the station. Initially named Samuels, the town was renamed Pumpville five years later when the railroad drilled wells to provide water for the trains. Today, Pumpville stands as a complete ghost town.
Cedar Station
The Pecos Trail continues its winding path through the arid landscape towards Dryden and Sanderson. Along the way, glimpses of old ranches, homes, and the remnants of Cedar Station offer a poignant reminder of the past. Although it may sound like another railroad stop, Cedar Station emerged later to cater to travelers along the highway. Consisting of little more than a few decaying buildings, it once featured a service station that also sold food and drinks, a small motel, and a home for the Smith family, who operated the establishment.
Dryden – Dying Along the Railroad
The tiny community of Dryden, Texas, with a population of approximately 13, is one of only two communities in Terrell County. Once the headquarters for numerous large ranches and various businesses, Dryden today consists of only about a dozen residents and a general store.
Sanderson – The Town Too Mean For Bean
The final destination on this portion of the Pecos Trail is Sanderson, Texas, the county seat of Terrell County. Known as the Cactus Capital of Texas and the Eastgate to the Big Bend Wilderness Area, Sanderson is home to the majority of Terrell County residents. One of the first to settle in the area was Charlie Wilson, who established a saloon near the proposed railroad terminal. When Roy Bean attempted to open a competing saloon, Wilson spiked his whiskey with "coal oil," prompting Bean to relocate eastward. Wilson’s expulsion of his competitor would later earn Sanderson the moniker "Town Too Mean for Bean."
The Del Rio to Sanderson on the Pecos Trail offers a captivating journey through a diverse landscape, rich with history and the enduring spirit of the American West.