Discovery of the Rocky Mountains
By the Cheely-Raban Syndicate in 1922
When France held dominion over a vast expanse of North America, a compelling aspiration fueled the ambition of many intrepid explorers and voyageurs: the discovery of a Northwest Passage leading to what they termed the Western Sea, now known as the Pacific Ocean. This pursuit consumed their energies, demanding immense courage and perseverance. It entailed navigating treacherous, uncharted wilderness for thousands of miles and confronting countless perils that tested their resolve.
These brave men ventured into territories inhabited by wild animals and the Indigenous peoples, driven by a desire for adventure and to expand the glory of France. Many met their end in these remote lands, their remains left to the elements. Their efforts, though valiant, ultimately proved unsuccessful in finding a navigable route to the Pacific Ocean.
It was this very quest, the relentless search for a westward passage, that inadvertently led to the discovery of the Rocky Mountains by European explorers. Their ambition, driven by dreams of trade and territorial expansion, pushed them further into the continent’s interior than any European had gone before.
Among the prominent gentleman adventurers and explorers of New France during this era was the Sieur de La Verendrye. Throughout his life, he traversed the untamed western lands, venturing into areas where no other white man had previously set foot. He relentlessly sought the elusive passage, but his efforts proved futile. As he aged, he entrusted the task of finding a route to the west to his devoted sons, Pierre and the Chevalier, who had accompanied him on numerous expeditions. While the La Verendryes did not succeed in reaching the Western Sea, they significantly extended the reach of the French flag into uncharted territories. Their explorations and the knowledge they gained paved the way for the achievements and discoveries of those who followed in their footsteps. The discovery of the Rocky Mountains stands as a testament to their perseverance.
During one of his expeditions, the elder La Verendrye journeyed far into the west, eventually reaching what is now North Dakota. On the banks of the Missouri River, he encountered the Mandan Indians, becoming the first European to make contact with them. These Indigenous people lived in well-constructed huts, cultivated fields, and displayed a level of advancement surpassing that of many other Indigenous tribes. La Verendrye established friendly relations with the Mandan, and his positive interactions ensured that the tribe provided sustenance and shelter to numerous explorers who came after him, including the famed Lewis and Clark expedition. The discovery of the Rocky Mountains was still decades away when La Verendrye encountered the Mandan.
The Mandan shared intriguing stories with La Verendrye, tales of a vast body of saltwater located far to the west. They described a lake whose waters rose and fell, and whose shores were inhabited by bearded white men who worshipped the Master of Life in large houses built for that purpose, holding books with leaves like Indian corn and singing during their worship.
Based on this information, La Verendrye surmised two possibilities. Either the Mandan had reached the shores of the sea he was seeking, or they had come into contact with Spanish settlements to the west. He suspected that the Spanish were gaining a foothold too far north, potentially jeopardizing French interests. Consequently, he embarked on a long journey back from the Upper Missouri country to Montreal to inform his government of this important news and request authorization and funding for an expedition further west to counter the Spanish and possibly locate the Western Sea. However, his plea fell on deaf ears, and the governor remained indifferent, providing no financial support.
By this time, La Verendrye had reached the later years of his life, aged by the hardships he had endured and weakened in health. Feeling unable to continue the work on his own resources, he reluctantly passed the mission on to his sons, Pierre and the Chevalier. They had been schooled in woodcraft and shared his passion for the cause. Undeterred by the lack of resources and accompanied by only two fellow countrymen, they ventured into the west, setting their sights on the land of the Mandan nation. After a challenging journey, they arrived in the spring of 1742. Their objective was to investigate the origins of the stories told by the Mandan to their father and to continue the search for the passage to the west. The Mandan, remembering their father’s friendship, welcomed them with great hospitality. The discovery of the Rocky Mountains would soon be a reality.
At that time, the Mandan were anticipating a visit from a tribe known as the Horse Indians, a nomadic group believed by the Mandan chiefs to be capable of guiding the French explorers to saltwater. The La Verendryes waited for a month and then, accompanied by Mandan guides, set out to find them. Instead, they encountered Crow Indians, who could only repeat the stories that had reached the Mandan. The Crow Indians directed them further west, providing Crow guides to lead them to the Bow Indians of the Sioux family.
Upon reaching the Bow encampment, the La Verendryes found the Indians preparing for war against the Snake tribe, gathering their warriors and allies in large numbers. The Bow Indians had no knowledge of a route to the Western Sea, but suggested that the Frenchmen join them on their expedition against the Snake. This would involve traveling west towards the mountains, where they might obtain information about the elusive passage from Snake prisoners or other western Indigenous peoples. The Frenchmen readily accepted the invitation, and the large force of warriors and their families slowly advanced towards the territory of their enemies, growing in strength as they progressed.
On January 1, 1743, a snow-capped mountain range appeared before them, its peaks shimmering like diamonds in the bright sunlight. The poetic Frenchmen named them the "Shining Mountains," a name that persists in poetry and Indigenous legends to this day. For the first time, the white race, through the eyes of the La Verendryes, gazed upon the majestic range of the Rocky Mountains. Historians generally agree that the mountains they saw at this point were the Big Horn range, located approximately 120 miles east of Yellowstone National Park. At that time, the explorers and their Indigenous companions were likely near the northeastern border of Wyoming.
As a side note, no battle occurred between the Bow and Snake tribes at that time, as the tribes failed to encounter each other. The La Verendryes then parted ways with the Bow Indians, abandoning their search for a route to the Western Sea. On an elevated point, now believed to be in South Dakota, on the banks of the Missouri River, they buried a leaden plate engraved with the arms of the King of France and erected a cairn of stones over it, claiming the land for France.
By the end of 1743, they had returned to the Assinniboine River. For thirteen years, they had pursued a futile quest. Instead of finding the Western Sea, they had discovered a vast prairie, the Rocky Mountains, and two significant rivers, the Saskatchewan and the Missouri. Upon their arrival in Montreal, the elder La Verendrye was awarded the Cross of St. Louis, and his two sons were granted minor positions in the army. The father passed away in 1750, and after the English conquered Canada, the eldest son sailed for France on a ship that was lost at sea with all on board. The younger son remained in Canada. The legacy of the La Verendrye family, however, lived on, primarily due to their discovery of the Rocky Mountains.
Compiled by Kathy Alexander/Legends of America, updated December 2022.
About This Article: Discovery of the Rocky Mountains was published in 1922 as a chapter in the book Back-trailing on the Old Frontiers published by the Cheely-Raban Syndicate of Great Falls, Montana. The book was the first in a three-volume series that published several stories illustrated by Charles M. Russell, which had appeared in Sunday editions of daily newspapers in all parts of the United States. The article is not verbatim, as it has been slightly edited for grammatical corrections.
Editors Note: Rocky Mountain National Park was established on January 26, 1915.
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