Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway, New Mexico
The Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway in New Mexico unveils a landscape etched by time, traversed by pioneers, and sculpted by dramatic geological forces. This journey, spanning across northeastern New Mexico and dipping briefly into Oklahoma, offers a visual feast of rugged mountain canyons, expansive high plateaus, protected nature preserves, unusual geological formations, dormant volcanoes, and poignant ghost towns. It is a route steeped in history and natural beauty, inviting travelers to delve into the heart of the American Southwest.
The byway’s appeal lies not only in its scenic vistas but also in the stories whispered by the land itself. From the echoes of wagon wheels along the Santa Fe Trail to the remnants of once-thriving mining communities, the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway is a passage through time. Prepare to be captivated by the stark beauty and the rich tapestry of human endeavor that defines this unique corner of the United States.
The Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway earns its name from the often-parched Cimarron River, a waterway that presented significant challenges to early settlers. The name, born from necessity and experience, speaks to the arid conditions that characterized much of the region, particularly along the Santa Fe Trail.
Adding to the nomenclature is the existence of two Cimarron Rivers in close proximity. While the Dry Cimarron meanders across the landscape, sometimes disappearing beneath the surface, the "Wet" Cimarron River flows through the Cimarron Canyon State Park, eventually merging with the Canadian River. This distinction highlights the unique hydrological features of the area.
The Dry Cimarron River itself possesses a peculiar characteristic: it’s a disappearing act. Originating at the foot of Johnson Mesa, the river carves a deep canyon across northern Union County, briefly ventures into Oklahoma, and ultimately empties into the Arkansas River near Dodge City, Kansas. Its tendency to sink and reappear further downstream earned it the moniker "disappearing river," a testament to the region’s complex geological makeup.
The journey along the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway begins (or ends, depending on your direction) in Raton, New Mexico, a town with a rich history as a railroad hub and a gateway to the surrounding natural wonders.
Raton offers a variety of attractions for visitors. The Santa Fe Trail Willow Springs Forage Station Overlook, situated on the Old Raton Pass off Moulton Avenue, provides a captivating introduction to the geological wonders that lie ahead. History buffs will appreciate Raton’s historic First Street, home to the Raton Museum, the Old Pass Gallery, the historic railroad depot, and the Scouting Museum. A self-guided National Historic District Walking Tour provides further insight into the town’s past.
From Raton, the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway heads east on New Mexico Highway 72, crossing Interstate 25 for approximately five miles before intersecting with NM Highway 526. Turning north onto Highway 526 for about 1.7 miles leads to Sugarite Canyon State Park.
Sugarite Canyon, pronounced "shug-ur-eet," lies in a sparsely populated area characterized by a stream valley bordered by cliffs, mesas, cone-shaped volcanoes, and ancient lava flows. The landscape tells a story of geological upheaval and the enduring power of nature.
The canyon’s history is intertwined with coal mining. Mining operations began in 1894, and the town of Sugarite was established in 1912 as a "company town" by the St. Louis, Rocky Mountain, and Pacific Railroad. At its peak, Sugarite boasted a population of nearly 1,000 residents and a thriving community with a school, a theater, a mercantile store, a telephone company, an opera house, a physician, a justice of the peace, and even a music teacher. Today, remnants of this once-bustling town can still be found within the park.
Beyond its historical significance, Sugarite Canyon State Park offers a wealth of outdoor recreational opportunities. Nature enthusiasts will appreciate the diverse wildlife, including birds, butterflies, and wildflowers, that thrive among the park’s lakes, creeks, forests, and meadows. Visitors can enjoy fishing, boating, hiking, horseback riding, hunting, and camping, making Sugarite Canyon a destination for adventure and relaxation.
Continuing along the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway, return to New Mexico Highway 72 and proceed east for approximately five miles to the Yankee area.
The Yankee area is steeped in pioneer history. Early settlers navigating the trails in this area encountered grass so tall and dense that compasses were often necessary for navigation. South of the highway, on a knoll, once stood a grand mansion built by A.D. Ensign, an ambitious entrepreneur.
Before the establishment of Yankee, farmers from nearby Johnson Mesa extracted coal from the mesa’s slopes for personal use. In 1904, the Chicorica Coal Company, with backing from a Wall Street brokerage firm and the Santa Fe Railroad, developed the coal deposits on Johnson and Barela Mesas. The driving force behind this venture was A.D. Ensign.
As the Yankee mines prospered, frame houses were constructed, and the population swelled to several thousand residents by 1907. The town boasted a school and numerous businesses. Ensign’s mansion was a testament to his success, featuring solid mahogany, velvet furniture, oriental rugs, and marble statues. However, the Ensign estate changed hands several times, and by 1923, its treasures had been sold, and the mansion fell into disrepair. Today, all traces of Yankee have vanished, and a cattle ranch occupies the site.
From the Yankee area, Highway 72 ascends to Johnson Mesa, offering breathtaking views along the way. The eight-mile drive is often rewarded with sightings of deer, turkey, and even bear, along with panoramic vistas of the lower elevations.
Upon reaching the summit, travelers emerge onto a vast, grassy plain. This high plateau was once home to the small community of Bell, a progressive farming settlement that established the first telephone connections in New Mexico.
Continuing east on Highway 72, the descent from Johnson Mesa offers spectacular views. Approximately 19 miles past the site of Bell lies Folsom, a semi-ghost town with a captivating history.
Folsom’s development began with the arrival of the Colorado and Southern Railroad in 1887. Today, it remains a friendly ranching community with several historic buildings. The old railroad station, relocated from the right-of-way around 1970, is now a private residence. The abandoned two-story Folsom Hotel still stands, along with an old gas station on the corner, several false-front stores on the south side of Main Street, and the general merchandise store, built in 1896, which now serves as a museum.
Continuing on NM 456, the road crosses the Dry Cimarron River multiple times. At Travessier, a picturesque overlook marks the entrance to the Dry Cimarron Valley, which narrows into a series of stunning sandstone formations.
On the north side of the road, a particularly striking colored sandstone formation known as the "Battleship" stands in remembrance of the USS Maine. Nearby, "Wedding Cake Butte," a round mound rising approximately 300 feet above the valley floor, resembles a large layered cake with its red, white, and brown layers of sandy rock. In the early days, many couples exchanged wedding vows atop this unique geological feature. The drive along NM 456 provides a refreshing contrast to the surrounding grasslands.
Just before the Oklahoma border, a right turn (south) onto Highway 406 leads to McNees Crossing. Here, a state historic sign marks the actual "ruts" of the Santa Fe Trail. The trail crosses the North Canadian River, also known as "Corrumpa Creek" by local residents. The crossing is named after a young scout of an eastbound caravan who was killed by Indians in the autumn of 1828. A short distance to the north, a gate leads to a windmill, and nearby, a small marker commemorates the 90th anniversary of the first July 4th celebration in what is now New Mexico, erected in 1921.
Continuing south on NM Highway 406 toward Seneca and Clayton, the route crosses traces of the Old Santa Fe Trail, particularly through the Kiowa National Grassland. The enduring visibility of the Santa Fe Trail ruts, more than a century after the trail’s closure, is attributed to a geological phenomenon: linear scars tend to perpetuate themselves, acting as channels for rainwater and thus continuing to erode and maintain their form. Clayton lies approximately 23 miles from McNees Crossing. Turning right onto US 56 leads into Clayton.
North of Clayton on Highway 370, Clayton Lake State Park offers a unique opportunity to view the tracks left by at least eight different kinds of dinosaurs. Approximately 100 million years ago, this site was the shoreline of the Gulf of Mexico. The site is well-interpreted and accessible via stairs and a boardwalk. Several of the tracks are unique or have been reported at only one other site in the world.
Continuing north on Highway 370, a left turn onto NM Highway 456 leads back to Folsom. From Folsom, Capulin Mountain is located nine miles southwest on NM Highway 325, passing the Twin Mountain red cinder rock quarry where the notorious outlaw Black Jack Ketchum was captured. Ketchum, finding that train robbery was not a viable career path, was hanged in Clayton, where his remains now rest in the cemetery.
Capulin Volcano National Monument is a remarkable geological feature, allowing visitors to drive to the summit and either descend into the crater or hike the one-mile rim trail, offering stunning panoramic views of the Raton-Clayton Volcanic Field. The volcano was withdrawn from public entry in 1891 but was proclaimed a National Monument by President Wilson on August 9, 1916. The park features a visitor center, a bookstore, and exhibits.
Southeast of Capulin lies Sierra Grande, the largest single mountain in the United States, with a base circumference of 40 miles and covering 50 square miles. Capulin Volcano National Park closes its doors at 4:30 p.m., so plan to arrive by mid-afternoon. Capulin offers food, fuel, and an RV camp, while Des Moines, located eight miles from Folsom, provides food, fuel, and lodging.
Venturing into Oklahoma, Kenton, Oklahoma, is a small community with a rich history.
Prior to 1890, the area that would become Cimarron County, in the Oklahoma Panhandle, lacked schools. There were only two communities and post offices: Mineral City, with 98 inhabitants, and Carrizo, with approximately 83 people. Carrizo was located about a mile west of the present-day Kenton.
Today, Kenton is a quiet community with approximately 17 residents, including only three children. Two of the children attend school in Clayton, New Mexico, and the other attends school in Boise City, both requiring a 100-mile round trip each day.
The Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway, New Mexico is more than just a road; it’s a journey through time, a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West, and a celebration of the region’s unique geological wonders.