Ellsworth, Kansas – Another Wicked Cowtown
Ellsworth, Kansas, a name whispered with echoes of the Wild West, stands today as a testament to the transformative power of time. Once a notorious "wicked cowtown" amidst the vast expanse of the Sunflower State, Ellsworth, Kansas now serves as the county seat of Ellsworth County, a thriving community of roughly 3,000 residents. This seemingly tranquil present belies a past brimming with conflict, commerce, and colorful characters who shaped the landscape of the American frontier.
Before the cattle drives thundered through its dusty streets and Ellsworth, Kansas became a dominant force in the livestock market, the region was a land of indigenous presence and evolving frontiers. The Smoky Hills region, a geographically diverse area characterized by rolling hills and fertile valleys, had long been the domain of the Cheyenne and other Native American tribes. These tribes, intimately connected to the land, sustained their way of life through hunting buffalo, a creature intrinsically linked to their culture and survival.
The arrival of the Santa Fe and Smoky Hill Trails marked a significant turning point. These trails, arteries of westward expansion, brought an influx of settlers, traders, and prospectors, disrupting the traditional way of life for the indigenous populations. As wagon trains and stagecoaches traversed the landscape, they became targets for raids, prompting the U.S. military to establish a presence in the area. Fort Ellsworth, initially constructed to protect these vital transportation routes, served as a symbol of the growing tension between the encroaching settlers and the native inhabitants.
Following the pattern of frontier development, a civilian settlement began to coalesce near the military installation. Just beyond the boundaries of the military reserve, approximately four miles northwest of the fort, the town of Ellsworth, Kansas was surveyed in 1867. Ironically, the fort itself was renamed Fort Harker in the same year, creating a distinction between the military establishment and the burgeoning civilian town. The arrival of the railroad at Fort Harker in July 1867 acted as a catalyst, transforming the nascent settlement into a bustling hub of frontier activity. Almost overnight, the population swelled to over 2,000, drawn by the promise of opportunity and the allure of the West.
The town’s rapid growth was immediately evident in its infrastructure and commercial landscape. Within a mere three months, Ellsworth, Kansas boasted a diverse array of businesses, including several houses, three grocery stores, a hardware store, and establishments offering dry goods and boots. However, the most prominent and ubiquitous features of the town were its numerous saloons, catering to the thirsts and entertainment needs of the diverse population that had flocked to the area.
This period of rapid expansion was not without its challenges. In its inaugural year, Ellsworth, Kansas faced a series of near-fatal setbacks. The Smoky Hill River, a vital water source, unleashed its fury, overflowing its banks and inundating the town with nearly four feet of water. Simultaneously, a cholera epidemic ravaged Fort Harker, quickly spreading to the civilian population of Ellsworth. The combined impact of the flood and the epidemic triggered a mass exodus, as many of the town’s early settlers succumbed to fear and uncertainty.
Those who remained demonstrated resilience and determination. Recognizing the vulnerability of the original location, they relocated the townsite to higher ground to the west. This strategic move proved crucial, as the town was able to mitigate future flooding risks and create a more stable foundation for growth. With its new location and renewed spirit, Ellsworth, Kansas began to prosper once again.
The extension of the railroad line to Ellsworth propelled the town into a new era of economic prominence. It rapidly evolved into a thriving cattle market, surpassing other Kansas cowtowns in volume and influence between 1871 and 1875. The influx of cowboys, drawn by the promise of lucrative cattle drives, transformed the town into a vibrant, albeit volatile, center of activity. Along with the cowboys came a supporting cast of gamblers, outlaws, and "unruly" women, all contributing to the town’s growing reputation for lawlessness and excitement.
Anticipating the shift in the cattle trade from Abilene, shrewd Ellsworth businessmen orchestrated the relocation of the Drovers Cottage, a prominent establishment previously owned by Joseph McCoy, to their town in 1872. This strategic move underscored their ambition to dominate the cattle market and cater to the needs of the burgeoning cowboy population. The Drovers Cottage, with its capacity to accommodate 175 guests and stable 50 carriages and 100 horses, became a focal point of social and commercial activity. Numerous other businesses sprang up, capitalizing on the influx of cowboys and the associated economic opportunities.
Like other Kansas cowtowns of the era, Ellsworth, Kansas quickly garnered a reputation as a wild and woolly place, characterized by frequent shootouts and acts of violence. In its early days, the area was plagued by a gang led by the infamous Craig and Johnson, who terrorized the townspeople with frequent robberies and acts of intimidation. The citizens, weary of the lawlessness, eventually formed a vigilance committee and summarily executed the two criminals near the banks of the Smoky Hill River.
The year 1873 marked a pivotal moment in the history of Ellsworth. Anticipating the largest drives of Texas Longhorns to date, the town authorities hired additional police officers to maintain order and control the influx of rowdy cowboys. Their foresight proved prescient, as a dramatic incident unfolded on August 15, 1873, in Nick Lentz’s Saloon. A dispute arose between Texas gambler Ben Thompson and another player named John Sterling. When City Marshal "Happy Jack" Morco sided with Sterling against the Texan Thompson, a notorious gunfighter, Ben and his drunken brother Billy moved out into the street, challenging their opponents to a showdown.
Instead of Morco, Ellsworth County Sheriff Chauncey Whitney intervened, attempting to defuse the situation. He persuaded the Thompson brothers to join him for a drink at Joe Brennan’s Saloon. However, before they could reach their destination, Marshal Morco charged down the street, guns blazing. In response, Ben Thompson wheeled around and fired his rifle at Morco, narrowly missing him. Simultaneously, Billy Thompson stumbled and discharged his shotgun, mortally wounding Sheriff Whitney.
In the aftermath of the shooting, chaos erupted in Ellsworth. Ben Thompson, backed by a contingent of Texans, held off the townspeople as Billy escaped. Ben was later apprehended by Deputy Ed Hogue but was never brought to trial and subsequently left Kansas to become the City Marshal of Austin, Texas. Billy Thompson remained at large until 1876, when he was apprehended, returned to Ellsworth, and put on trial. The jury ultimately acquitted him, ruling that the shooting was accidental.
The aftermath of the Whitney shooting triggered a wave of violence and vigilante justice in Ellsworth. City Marshal "Happy Jack" Morco was dismissed from his position and replaced by Ed Crawford, who, two days later, pistol-whipped a Texas cowboy named Cad Pierce to death. Distrustful of law enforcement and exasperated by the presence of Texas cowboys, vigilantes began patrolling the streets, issuing "affidavits" to Texans, demanding they leave town under threat of violence. "Happy Jack" Morco himself was later gunned down in the streets by J. Charles Brown, who subsequently became the City Marshal. Edward Crawford was also killed by a Texas cowboy, believed to be Cad Pierce’s brother-in-law.
Ellsworth’s reputation for wickedness persisted until the cattle shipping pens were finally closed in 1875. During its peak year in 1873, an estimated 220,000 head of longhorn cattle were driven through the town. The turbulent period attracted a diverse array of Old West figures, including George Armstrong Custer, Buffalo Bill Cody, Wild Bill Hickok, and the infamous Ben and Billy Thompson. The pervasive atmosphere of lawlessness and excitement was aptly captured by one newspaper, which declared, "As we go to press, hell is still in session in Ellsworth."
With the decline of the cattle trade, Ellsworth transitioned into a peaceful ranching and farming community, a mainstay that continues to define its character today. The town now has a population of nearly 3,000, primarily supported by the Kansas State Ellsworth Correctional Facility.
Ellsworth embraces and celebrates its rich history with a variety of museums and attractions, including the Hodgden House Museum Complex on old South Main Street. Visitors can explore the Hodgden House, built in 1873 by Perry Hodgden, one of Ellsworth’s first settlers; the Black Wolf school built in 1912, a stone livery built in 1887, two historic churches, a rare wooden Union Pacific Caboose, the Terra Cotta Union Pacific Depot built 1900, and the oldest building in Ellsworth, its 1873 Jail.
The National Drovers Hall of Fame Museum is being developed at 210 N. Douglas, in the old Signature Insurance Building. Interactive displays will provide insights into the Great American cattle drives.
The Fort Harker Museum is located about five miles southeast of Ellsworth in Kanopolis, Kansas.