Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, New Mexico
The Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway in northern New Mexico is a journey through time and breathtaking landscapes. This iconic loop, favored by travelers seeking a day of exploration, gracefully encircles Wheeler Peak, the state’s highest summit. Spanning approximately 84 miles, the byway weaves together the charming towns of Eagle Nest, Angel Fire, Taos, and Red River, offering a diverse tapestry of natural beauty and historical significance. Towering over the region, Wheeler Peak ascends to an impressive altitude of 13,161 feet, acting as a constant, majestic sentinel. As you traverse this remarkable route, prepare to be captivated by the dramatic scenery, untamed backcountry, winding mountain trails, inviting camping spots, lively streams, serene lakes, and glimpses into New Mexico’s rich and layered history.
The Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway begins its captivating journey in Eagle Nest, a picturesque village nestled amidst stunning mountain views. From Eagle Nest, the byway guides you southwest along US 64, leading you into the sprawling Moreno Valley. Here, keep your eyes peeled for the valley’s most prominent residents: vast herds of elk peacefully grazing on the open plains. These magnificent creatures, often numbering in the dozens or even hundreds, are a common sight, adding a touch of wilderness to the already stunning landscape. As you continue, just before the turnoff to Angel Fire, a poignant landmark emerges on the western horizon: the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Chapel. Poised overlooking the southern expanse of the valley, this chapel serves as a solemn tribute to the sacrifices made during the Vietnam War, a place for reflection and remembrance.
A short distance south of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Chapel lies the former town of Agua Fria, now a quiet reminder of a darker chapter in the region’s history. This now-peaceful locale was once the haunt of Charles Kennedy, a notorious serial killer. Kennedy operated from his home near the base of Palo Flechado Pass, luring unsuspecting travelers inside with promises of rest and respite. Once inside, he would rob them of their valuables before brutally murdering them and burying their bodies beneath his house. Kennedy’s gruesome activities were eventually uncovered, leading to his capture and swift execution by a lynch mob led by the infamous frontiersman Clay Allison. The chilling tale of Charles Kennedy adds a layer of intrigue to the otherwise idyllic landscape surrounding the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway.
Just beyond the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, Highway 434 branches south from Highway 64, leading to the Village of Angel Fire and the renowned Four Seasons Resort. Angel Fire is a destination that transforms with the seasons. During the winter months, it is a bustling ski resort, drawing snow enthusiasts from far and wide. In the summer, the resort offers an 18-hole golf course for leisurely afternoons and continues to operate its chairlift, providing hikers, mountain bikers, and sightseers with access to higher elevations and breathtaking panoramic views. For those with extra time, a detour south on Highway 434 beyond Angel Fire leads to the historic town of Mora. While this side trip isn’t part of the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway itself, it offers another enticing opportunity to explore New Mexico’s rich cultural heritage.
Returning to US 64 from Angel Fire, the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway continues its ascent, leading you over the 9,101-foot Palo Flechado Pass. From the summit, the road descends into the Rio Fernando de Taos Canyon, a dramatic gorge carved by the relentless flow of the Rio Fernando. The canyon offers a wealth of recreational opportunities, with numerous picnic areas, campsites, and trails beckoning adventurers of all skill levels. During the summer and fall, many artist studios open their doors to visitors, providing a glimpse into the region’s vibrant art scene. As you descend into the valley, the canyon unveils a spectacular vista of the sage-covered mesa and the distant San Juan Mountains to the south of Taos.
Taos itself is a treasure trove of cultural and recreational experiences, worthy of at least a full day’s exploration. A visit to Taos Pueblo is an absolute must. This ancient Native American village has been continuously inhabited for centuries, offering a unique glimpse into a living culture that has remained remarkably unchanged. Alternatively, explore the historic Taos Plaza, a central gathering place surrounded by shops, galleries, and restaurants housed in historic adobe buildings. Many of these buildings were once the homes of prominent Taos citizens, including the legendary frontiersman Kit Carson. Beyond the historical and cultural attractions, Taos offers endless outdoor adventures. Embark on a mountain trail for skiing, horseback riding, biking, or hiking. Alternatively, brave the wild waters of the Rio Grande in a raft or kayak. With its four distinct seasons and diverse life zones, Taos caters to a wide range of recreational pursuits. The town’s Native American, Spanish, and Anglo cultures are proudly preserved through art, architecture, music, dance, food, and festivals, creating a vibrant and enriching atmosphere throughout the year.
Traveling north from Taos, the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway crosses the vast alluvial apron at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. These majestic peaks, rising 5,600 feet above the volcanic plateau, stretch north into Colorado and represent one of the youngest mountain ranges in North America. The name "Sangre de Cristo," Spanish for "Blood of Christ," evokes the reddish hues often seen on the mountains at sunrise and sunset. A short detour west on U.S. 64 leads to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, an architectural marvel that spans the deep chasm carved by the Rio Grande River. From pedestrian walkways on either side of the bridge, visitors can peer directly down into the gorge, a dizzying 650 feet below.
Continuing north along the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, numerous diversions beckon. A left turn in the lush Hondo Valley, at the small village of Arroyo Hondo, leads to the John Dunn Bridge across the Rio Grande River at the base of the gorge. John Dunn, an early settler, made his fortune by purchasing a bridge near this spot and turning it into a toll bridge, forcing all passengers from the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad to cross it to reach Taos. Dunn’s initial $5,000 investment yielded a substantial return. Beyond the bridge, the road meanders along the Hondo River, a popular spot for fly fishermen. On the western side of the Rio Grande, a favorite swimming spot awaits, while a trail leading to Black Rock Hot Springs begins up the hill.
Continuing toward Questa, the byway passes the D. H. Lawrence Memorial and the villages of Lama and San Cristobal. North of Lama, the scar of the Hondo Fire of 1996 serves as a stark reminder of the power of nature. Just south of Questa, on the west side of the highway, is the New Mexico Fish and Game’s Red River Fish Hatchery. This facility offers free self-guided tours, picnic areas, and excellent fishing opportunities on the Red River just below the trout breeding ponds. Questa, situated at the end of the historic Camino Real, is renowned for its local woodworkers, tinsmiths, and other traditional artists and artisans. The San Antonio del Rio Colorado Church, now known as St. Anthony’s, was founded in 1842 and features fine examples of traditional Santos and retablos. Artesanos de Questa continues these cultural traditions with a gallery shop on Highway 38.
The Village of Questa, formerly named Cuesta (meaning "the lowering"), was named by early Spanish settlers due to its location within a mineral-rich caldera formed 25 million years ago. The town is surrounded by steep-sided volcanoes and offers views of several near-perfect volcanic cones, including Ute Peak and Ortiz and San Antonio Mountains to the north and west. Questa also boasts several excellent cafes serving traditional Mexican cuisine, often featuring the region’s famous green chile.
Eleven miles north of Questa, at the town of Cerro, lies the entrance to the Wild Rivers Recreation Area. This Bureau of Land Management park, situated at the confluence of the Rio Grande and the Red Rivers, offers guided and self-guided walks to the bottom of the gorge. Picnic and campsites are available both on the rim and beside the Rio Grande, making it an ideal destination for a day of exploration.
East of Questa, the road follows the narrow valley of the Red River. The mountains on either side are volcanic, composed of ash and granite intrusions. This area was a hub of prospecting activity in the late 1800s and early 1900s, with miners seeking gold, silver, copper, and lead deposited by volcanic eruptions during the Tertiary era. Due to the difficulty of extracting these minerals from the hard rock, most mining operations were eventually abandoned, with only the molybdenum mine continuing to operate sporadically. Several camps and picnic grounds line the banks of the Red River.
The town of Red River offers a chance to stretch your legs and indulge in some shopping. This family-oriented town, with its distinct Old West atmosphere, features saloons, daily staged gunfights, a 20-year-old melodrama at the Red River Inn, a mining museum, and numerous souvenir shops. The Red River Ski Area, located in the center of town, operates its main ski lift during the summer and fall months, offering sightseers panoramic views of the valley and hikers access to various trails dotted with old mining camps.
Continuing east on Highway 38, the road ascends to 9,820-foot Bobcat Pass, then winds its way down into the Moreno Valley. Bobcat Pass offers some of the most breathtaking scenery along the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, including a stunning vista of the north face of Wheeler Peak. Several turnouts provide ample opportunities for photographers to capture the beauty of the landscape. On the eastern rim of the Moreno Valley, Mt. Baldy dominates the horizon. Gold was discovered on its slopes in 1866, sparking a gold rush. To the west of the highway, Elizabethtown quickly grew to accommodate the influx of miners and was dubbed "E-Town" by the locals.
Elizabethtown is now a ghost town, but it was once the county seat of Colfax County and the largest settlement in Northern New Mexico. Early settlers and miners were considered "squatters" because the land was part of the Maxwell Land Grant, the largest land grant ever recognized by the United States government. Elizabethtown became the epitome of the Wild West, complete with range wars, lynchings, claim jumping, and land scams, attracting such notorious characters as Black Jack Ketchum and Clay Allison. Later, when a European company purchased the Maxwell Land Grant, they attempted to sell parcels of land to easterners, picturing a Mississippi-style paddleboat on the tiny Cimarron River. Today, only a few original buildings remain.
The Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway concludes its journey by returning to Eagle Nest via Highway 38, completing the loop and leaving you with a wealth of memories and a profound appreciation for the beauty and history of northern New Mexico.