Folsom, New Mexico – High Plains Ghost Town – Legends of America
Nestled along the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway in Union County, New Mexico, lies Folsom, a captivating semi-ghost town steeped in history and surrounded by the raw beauty of the high plains. This quaint community, situated at the crossroads of New Mexico Highways 325 and 456, whispers tales of a bygone era, inviting visitors to step back in time and explore its unique past.
A Landscape Shaped by Time
The area surrounding Folsom is a visual symphony of nature’s artistry. The wide Cimarron River Valley, carved over millennia, is embraced by imposing buttes, ancient mesas, and the stoic silhouettes of old volcanic cones. This dramatic landscape served as a traditional hunting ground for the Comanche, Ute, and Jicarilla Apache Indian tribes, who roamed these plains long before the arrival of European settlers.
Madison: A Pioneer’s Beginning
The first white settlement in the area was Madison, established in 1862 by Madison Emery, who built a humble cabin at the site. As more families arrived, Madison flourished, boasting homes, stores, and a hotel erected by Emery himself. In its early days, Madison gained notoriety as the nearest settlement to the infamous "Robbers’ Roost," a haven for outlaws led by Captain William Coe. When danger threatened their hideout, the outlaws often sought refuge in Madison. Coe was eventually apprehended in Madison with the help of Emery Madison’s wife and step-son, but was lynched by a group of vigilantes before his trial. After Coe’s death, his gang dispersed, leaving Madison to continue its growth.
The Rise and Fall of Madison
In 1877, Madison marked its progress with the establishment of a post office. However, the town’s fate took an unfortunate turn with the arrival of the Colorado and Southern Railroad in 1887. The railroad bypassed Madison, leading to its decline as residents and businesses migrated to a new town that sprang up eight miles to the northeast. Madison’s post office closed in 1888, and today, only remnants of an old grist mill remain as a testament to its existence.
Folsom: A Town Born of the Rails
The Colorado and Southern Railroad’s arrival in the late 1880s sparked the birth of Folsom. Initially known as Ragtown due to its makeshift shelters and tent-based businesses, the community experienced a turning point when Francis Folsom, the bride-to-be of President Grover Cleveland, made a brief stop in the town. Captivated by her charm, the townspeople renamed their settlement in her honor. Folsom established its own post office in 1888, replacing the one in Madison.
A Wild West Legacy
Folsom’s early days were not without their share of Wild West drama. One of the town’s first residents, W. A. Thompson, arrived from Missouri with a dark past, having been charged with murder. As the proprietor of the Gem Saloon and a deputy sheriff, Thompson quickly earned a reputation for violence. Tales of his deadly encounters, including the shooting of a friend and the killing of a fellow officer, circulated throughout the town. Though tried for his crimes, Thompson was acquitted and continued his violent ways in Oklahoma.
The Unfulfilled Dream of Hotel Capulin
In the late 1880s, two Dallas investors embarked on an ambitious project to build a mineral springs resort east of Folsom. Their plans included a grand hotel on the edge of a canyon and a dam to create a lake for recreation. However, a dispute between the investors led to the abandonment of the project, leaving the nearly completed Hotel Capulin to fall into disrepair. Locals used the building for parties, vagrants moved in, and bits and pieces were taken for the structure for other building purposes. The devastating flood of 1908 washed away the remnants of this ill-fated venture.
Boom and Bust on the High Plains
Despite its tumultuous beginnings, Folsom prospered in its early years. The town boasted the largest stockyards west of Fort Worth, Texas, and attracted land speculators and homesteaders seeking opportunities on the high plains. Cowboys and farmers relied on Folsom for supplies and a taste of civilization. The town’s population swelled to around 1,000, leading to the establishment of hotels, restaurants, supply stores, mercantile shops, doctors’ offices, newspapers, and saloons. Three school houses were built after the first two burned.
Outlaws and Train Robberies
Folsom’s remote location made it a target for outlaws. The infamous Ketchum Gang, led by Sam Ketchum, robbed the train near Folsom on September 3, 1897. Two years later, Sam Ketchum and his gang returned to the same location on July 11, 1899. A posse confronted the outlaws in Turkey Canyon, resulting in a deadly shootout. Sheriff Edward Farr of Walsenburg, Colorado, was killed, and Sam Ketchum and Elza Lay were wounded. Sam was captured and taken to prison in Santa Fe, where he died of his wounds. Elza Lay, who initially escaped, was later apprehended and imprisoned.
On August 16, 1899, Tom "Black Jack" Ketchum attempted to rob the train at the same location by himself. However, he was seriously wounded by the conductor, Frank E. Harrington. Ketchum was captured the next day, and his arm was amputated while he awaited trial. He was hanged on April 26, 1901, in Clayton, New Mexico.
The Homesteaders’ Struggle
By the early 1900s, Folsom’s population began to decline as homesteaders realized the challenges of farming in the arid high plains.
The Great Flood of 1908
On August 27, 1908, a catastrophic flash flood struck Folsom, forever altering its landscape and its people’s lives. Sarah J. Rooke, the town’s telephone operator, heroically warned residents of the impending danger, sacrificing her own life in the process. The flood swept away most of the town’s buildings, claiming the lives of 18 people, including Sarah Rooke. A granite monument in the Folsom Cemetery commemorates her bravery.
The Folsom Site Discovery
Shortly after the flood, George McJunkin, an African American cowboy, amateur archaeologist, and historian, discovered the remains of giant prehistoric bison in Wild Horse Arroyo, west of Folsom. This discovery led to the excavation of the Folsom Site, where archaeologists unearthed 32 bison skeletons and spear points, now known as "Folsom Points." This groundbreaking find revolutionized the understanding of human presence in North America, pushing back the timeline by at least 5,000 years to 12,000 years. The Folsom Site was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1961.
Decline and Resilience
As the weather grew drier, many homesteaders abandoned their farms, and the remaining farmers consolidated the land into larger plots. However, drought continued to plague the area, leading to further decline. Cattle and sheep ranchers eventually bought up the farmlands, returning them to pasture.
Folsom’s high school briefly operated, graduating only three students in 1931. The elementary school closed in 1958, and students were transferred to Des Moines, New Mexico. The school building still stands and serves as a community center. By 1960, Folsom’s population had dwindled to 142. The Doherty General Merchandise Store, built in 1896, remained open until 1959.
Folsom Today: A Glimpse into the Past
Today, Folsom is a semi-ghost town, a quiet ranching community with around 60 residents. Several historic buildings remain, including the old 1888 railroad station, the Texaco gas station, and the Doherty Mercantile building, which now houses the Folsom Museum. The abandoned Folsom Hotel still stands on Main Street, along with false-front stores.
The town maintains an active post office, and St. Joseph’s Church continues to hold services. Folsom is located 36 miles east of Raton on New Mexico Highway 72.
Nearby Attractions
Visitors to Folsom can explore the Capulin Volcano National Monument, located seven miles southwest of town, or embark on a scenic drive along the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway. Folsom Falls, a natural spring-fed waterfall, is located about 3.5 miles northwest of town, but it is now on private land and not accessible to the public.
Eight miles north of Folsom, Highway 456 intersects with Highway 551, leading to Toll-Gate Canyon, a historic route used by Charles Goodnight to trail cattle and later by Bazil Metcalf for his toll road.
Folsom, New Mexico, is more than just a ghost town; it’s a living testament to the resilience of the human spirit, a place where history and nature intertwine to create a captivating experience.