Fort Atkinson, Nebraska
By Addison Erwin Sheldon, 1913
Nestled within the landscape of eastern Nebraska, where the Missouri River meanders and the bluffs rise gently, lies a site steeped in history: Fort Atkinson, Nebraska. This location, once known as the Council Bluff, holds the distinction of being the place where Lewis and Clark first convened with the Native American tribes of the region. More significantly, it became the home of Old Fort Atkinson, Nebraska, established in 1819 as the first United States military outpost in what would become the state of Nebraska. Its story is one of ambition, conflict, and the ebb and flow of frontier life.
Fort Atkinson, Nebraska was more than just a military installation; it was a microcosm of a burgeoning nation pushing westward. Initially garrisoned by the Rifle Regiment and the Sixth Infantry, the fort quickly evolved into a bustling community. Its strategic importance lay in its location, the westernmost army post in the United States at the time, making it a focal point for interaction with various Native American tribes and even traders from as far away as Santa Fe.
The fort itself was an impressive structure, a testament to the ambition of the young American republic. Equipped with 15 cannons and manned by several hundred soldiers, Fort Atkinson, Nebraska was a formidable presence. However, the fort’s significance extended beyond its military might. The soldiers stationed there were not merely combatants; they were also the backbone of a self-sufficient community. They served as teamsters, laborers, traders, hunters, and trappers, transforming the military outpost into a thriving town of nearly a thousand inhabitants.
The industrious nature of the community at Fort Atkinson, Nebraska is remarkable. The residents established a brickyard and a lime kiln, utilizing the natural resources of the area to construct their homes and fortifications. Rock was quarried from the river ledges, providing building materials, while a sawmill and a grist mill hummed with activity, processing timber and grain. The surrounding land was diligently cultivated, with hundreds of acres of rich Nebraska soil yielding abundant harvests of grain. Roads radiated from the fort in all directions, connecting it to the wider world and facilitating trade and communication.
The presence of Fort Atkinson, Nebraska drew people from far and wide. Native American tribes from across the West journeyed to the fort, seeking trade, alliances, and diplomacy. Even Mexicans from distant Santa Fe made the arduous trek to the Council Bluff to forge peace agreements with the Pawnee Indians. The fort was not solely a male domain; white women also resided within its walls, contributing to the establishment of a more permanent and settled community.
Life at Fort Atkinson, Nebraska mirrored that of any other frontier town. Marriages were celebrated, and children were born, their laughter echoing across the bluff. Education also took root, with the establishment of the first school in Nebraska within the fort’s walls. In its heyday, Fort Atkinson, Nebraska was the largest and, for a time, the only town in the territory, a vibrant hub of activity in the vast and untamed landscape.
However, the tranquility of Fort Atkinson, Nebraska was not destined to last. In the summer of 1823, news arrived of a violent encounter between American trappers and the Arikara Indians, a tribe related to the Pawnee who resided along the Missouri River in present-day South Dakota. The incident, sparked by the theft of horses and subsequent mistreatment of an Arikara individual, resulted in the deaths of approximately 20 trappers.
The news of the attack plunged Fort Atkinson, Nebraska into a state of heightened alert. Bugles sounded, summoning soldiers to their posts, and preparations were made for a military response. Under the command of General Leavenworth, an expeditionary force of over 200 soldiers, augmented by 400 Sioux warriors (traditional enemies of the Arikara), as well as hunters and rivermen, set out to confront the Arikara.
The journey to the Arikara villages was a grueling month-long march along the banks of the Missouri River. Keelboats, laden with cannons, ammunition, and provisions, were laboriously pulled upstream, a testament to the challenges of navigating the treacherous river currents. The sight of such a large armed force traversing the North Nebraska prairies was unprecedented, a clear signal of the growing influence and power of the United States.
On August 8, the expeditionary force reached the Arikara villages. Cannons were strategically positioned on a hill, and their heavy projectiles were unleashed upon the village fortifications. Simultaneously, the Sioux warriors, led by their chief White Bear, engaged the Arikara warriors in fierce combat outside the village walls. The fighting was intense, and the Arikara suffered significant losses, including their chief, Gray Eyes, and approximately forty of his people.
Faced with overwhelming force, the Arikara sued for peace. A treaty was negotiated, and a truce was established. As a gesture of goodwill, the white soldiers and their Sioux allies partook in a feast of roasted corn harvested from the Arikara fields. The conflict, later known as the Arikara War of 1823, marked the first military engagement on the Nebraska frontier. Despite the scale of the operation, no white soldiers were killed, and the army returned to Fort Atkinson, Nebraska.
Following the Arikara War, a period of relative calm descended upon Fort Atkinson, Nebraska. Fur traders plied the Missouri River during the summer months, bringing goods and news from St. Louis, Missouri. In winter, sleds traversed the snow-covered landscape, connecting the fort to other trading posts. Hunting parties ventured out from the fort, providing sustenance for the soldiers.
However, the relentless hunting expeditions had unintended consequences. The Omaha tribe, who traditionally relied on the local game for their survival, found their hunting grounds depleted. Their chief, Big Elk, approached the fort, pleading for assistance, explaining that his people were starving while the soldiers decimated the game.
In 1827, a pivotal decision was made: Fort Atkinson, Nebraska was abandoned by the United States Army. The soldiers were ordered to relocate down the Missouri River, taking with them the livestock and supplies. The cultivated fields were left to revert to their natural state, and the buildings were left vacant. Traders and hunters dispersed to Bellevue and other settlements further downstream. According to some accounts, the Native Americans burned the remaining structures after the soldiers departed.
Six years later, Maximilian, a German traveler, encountered the ruins of Fort Atkinson, Nebraska. He noted the presence of towering stone chimneys and a brick storehouse that still retained its roof. The site had become a haven for rattlesnakes, a symbol of the wildness that had reclaimed the area.
When the first settlers arrived in this region of Nebraska in the mid-1850s, they discovered a valuable resource in the ruins of Fort Atkinson, Nebraska. The readily available bricks and stones provided a convenient source of building materials for their chimneys and cellars. The early settlers dismantled the remaining structures, carrying the materials to their farms.
Today, the village of Fort Calhoun, located approximately 16 miles north of Omaha, adjoins the site of Old Fort Atkinson, Nebraska. The summit of the Council Bluff still bears traces of the fort’s former presence. The parade ground where the flagstaff once stood, the rows of cellars that marked the locations of officers’ quarters, and the barracks where the soldiers resided can still be discerned. Remnants of the grand fireplaces, broken bricks, and ashes can still be found, along with the powder vault and the road leading down Hook’s Hollow to the river landing.
Each spring, as residents tend to their gardens, they unearth artifacts from the fort’s past: bullets, buttons bearing the inscription "Rifles," and insignia from the Sixth Infantry. Spanish coins, dating back to the era when Spain held sway over much of the Americas, are also occasionally discovered, a tangible link to a distant past.
The story of the Council Bluff and Old Fort Atkinson, Nebraska is a significant chapter in the history of Nebraska. It was the site of the first council with the Nebraska Indians, the location of the first fort, and the first important town in the state. A century ago, it was a center of activity and commerce. While the Missouri River now flows three miles away from the old landing, and the fort and its soldiers are long gone, the legacy of Fort Atkinson, Nebraska endures. The Indian trader and hunter no longer frequent the area, and Mexicans no longer traverse the plains to negotiate peace with the Pawnee. Even the name of the old fort has faded from common memory. Nevertheless, this historical site holds a special place in the early history of Nebraska, a story that deserves to be cherished and retold.
Today, the old fort has been reconstructed, and the area has been restored as the Fort Atkinson State Historical Park, allowing visitors to step back in time and experience a glimpse of frontier life.
Contact Information:
Fort Atkinson State Historical Park
PO Box 240
Fort Calhoun, Nebraska 68023-0240
402-468-5611