Fort Bowie, Arizona & the Bascom Affair
Nestled in the southeastern corner of Arizona, the Fort Bowie National Historic Site stands as a powerful testament to a turbulent chapter in American history. More than just a collection of crumbling adobe walls, it commemorates the intense and often brutal conflict between the Chiricahua Apache people and the United States military. Furthermore, it serves as a lasting monument to the perseverance, bravery, and often-overlooked hardships endured by U.S. soldiers as they facilitated westward expansion and the subjugation of the American frontier. The story of Fort Bowie, Arizona, is inextricably linked to the story of the American West itself.
The seeds of this conflict were sown long before the establishment of the fort, in a landscape already fraught with tension and competing claims. The Chiricahua Apache, a fiercely independent and resourceful people, had called this land home for generations, their lives intricately woven into the rhythms of the desert. Then came the relentless push of westward expansion, fueled by dreams of gold, land, and opportunity, inevitably leading to clashes over resources, territory, and differing ways of life.
In 1857, a pivotal moment arrived when the U.S. government awarded John Butterfield a lucrative contract to establish a mail and passenger stagecoach route connecting St. Louis, Missouri, with the burgeoning metropolis of San Francisco, California. This ambitious undertaking, spanning a staggering 2,800 miles, demanded a rigorous schedule of just 25 days for completion. As his stagecoaches prepared to embark on this monumental journey, Butterfield famously charged his men with a resolute directive: "Remember boys, nothing on God’s earth must stop the United States Mail." Little did he know, his ambition would soon collide with the unwavering resolve of Chief Cochise and his Chiricahua Apache tribe.
The Butterfield Overland Mail route carved a path directly through Apache Pass, a strategically vital corridor through the rugged mountains. Recognizing the importance of this passage, the Apache Pass Stage Station was constructed in July 1858. This rudimentary outpost, built of sturdy stone walls ranging from six to eight feet high, housed a kitchen-dining area, sleeping quarters, a storage room for essential supplies like feed and weapons, and a mule corral equipped with strategically placed portholes in each stall. The stagecoach stop provided a brief respite for weary travelers, offering a change of mules, a moment of rest, and a meager meal consisting of bread, coffee, meat, and beans, all for the price of 50 cents.
For a brief period of over two years, a fragile truce existed between the Chiricahua Apache and the Butterfield Stage Company. The Apache permitted the mail and passenger stages to pass through Apache Pass, albeit with a sense of unease. In exchange for gifts and occasional provisions, they even provided firewood for the stage station. Butterfield, in turn, designed the Celerity wagon specifically for the central segment of the route. Unlike the larger Concord coaches used at both ends of the line, the mule-driven, lighter Celerity could more easily navigate the rugged mountains and rocky canyons that characterized the southwestern terrain. This delicate balance, however, was destined to shatter, plunging the region into years of conflict. The story of Fort Bowie, Arizona, and the surrounding area, is a story of broken promises and escalating violence.
The short-lived period of relative peace for the Butterfield Stage through the area came to an abrupt and devastating end in 1861. A seemingly minor incident, fueled by misunderstanding and misjudgment, ignited a powder keg of resentment and mistrust. This incident, forever etched in the annals of history as the Bascom Affair, irrevocably altered the relationship between the Chiricahua Apache and the U.S. military, paving the way for years of bloody conflict and ultimately leading to the establishment of Fort Bowie, Arizona.
The Bascom Affair
On February 4, 1861, Second Lieutenant George Bascom, a young and inexperienced officer, arrived in Apache Pass with a detachment of 43 men. Bascom’s mission was ostensibly to locate Chiricahua Apache Chief Cochise, recover a kidnapped white boy, and retrieve livestock that Apache raiders were alleged to have stolen.
During a meeting with Cochise and several of his band members, Bascom, acting on what he believed to be credible information, made a fateful decision. He ordered Cochise and his companions to be held hostage until the boy and the stolen livestock were returned. Cochise, vehemently denying any involvement in the alleged kidnapping and theft, was deeply insulted and outraged by Bascom’s accusations. Knowing that neither he nor his people were responsible for the acts, Cochise refused to be held accountable for something he did not do. In a daring move, Cochise bolted from the tent. In the ensuing chaos and confusion, the remaining Apache were captured and detained by Bascom’s men.
Following the events of February 4, Bascom, fearing retaliation, ordered his command to move forward and fortify the Apache Pass Stage Station. He transformed the already fortified structure into a makeshift military outpost, preparing for a potential confrontation with the Apache.
Sergeant Daniel Robinson, a member of Bascom’s detachment, provided a vivid account of the hasty preparations: "Our wagons were placed end to end, forming a semicircle, covering one side of the station and the corral, making a basis for outer breastworks. There was a deep ravine on this side, the head or nearest point of it about a hundred yards from the station. Empty grain sacks were filled with earth and placed on the inner side of the circle."
On the morning of February 5, tensions reached a fever pitch. Sergeant Robinson recounted, "…the Apache were assembling in force on a hill 800 yards off. They soon dispersed, leaving a white flag. Soon, a warrior approached the stage station defended by Bascom and his force. The warrior stated that Cochise wished to have a ‘talk’ with our Chief."
The ensuing "talk" commenced with Cochise making a passionate plea for the release of the captive Indians. He vehemently maintained his innocence and insisted that his people had not committed the crimes of which they were accused. However, Bascom remained steadfast, informing Cochise that the captives would not be released until the boy was returned unharmed. As the negotiations continued, a Butterfield employee named James Wallace approached the ravine, seemingly unnoticed by anyone. Suddenly, a group of Apache warriors emerged from the ravine, seized Wallace, and dragged him out of sight. This act of aggression abruptly ended the parley.
A fierce firefight erupted between the soldiers defending the stage station and the Apache warriors, who took cover in the surrounding hills and ravines. For three days, the battle raged, with both sides exchanging gunfire and suffering casualties. In a desperate attempt to secure the release of the Apache captives, Cochise and his warriors launched attacks on the stage station and the nearby Apache Spring, a vital water source. These attacks, however, proved unsuccessful, forcing Cochise and his followers to abandon Apache Pass and retreat into the rugged Chiricahua Mountains.
The Bascom Affair and the ensuing warfare left a lasting scar on Apache Pass. For 16 days, the area was engulfed in violence, with both sides capturing hostages and executing them in acts of vengeance. The bloodshed created a deep-seated bitterness and hatred that would fester for more than a decade. The terror continued until 1872, when President Ulysses S. Grant dispatched General Oliver O. Howard as an emissary to negotiate peace with Cochise. Howard, aided by army scout Thomas Leffords, eventually brokered a peace agreement with Cochise. However, the residual anger and resentment among other Apache warriors continued to fuel the Apache Wars, a direct consequence of Bascom’s actions. The legacy of Fort Bowie, Arizona, is forever intertwined with the tragic events of the Bascom Affair.
During the Bascom Affair, soldiers, Butterfield employees, and passengers sought refuge at the stage station, transforming it into a temporary sanctuary amidst the chaos. The escalating tensions and the increasing threat of Apache attacks ultimately led to the discontinuation of the southern Butterfield Overland Mail route in March 1861.
Just a few months later, on July 15 and 16, 1862, the Battle of Apache Pass was fought near the site of the future Fort Bowie, Arizona. A Union regiment under the command of General James Henry Carleton was ambushed by a band of Chiricahua Apache warriors while en route from California to New Mexico, where they were to confront Confederate troops. This pivotal battle highlighted the strategic importance of Apache Pass and the need for a permanent military presence in the area.
The battle directly led to the establishment of Fort Bowie, Arizona, later that year. The fort was strategically located to protect Apache Pass and its vital water source, ensuring safe passage for travelers and military personnel.
The fort was named in honor of Colonel George Washington Bowie, commander of the 5th Regiment California Volunteer Infantry, who played a key role in establishing the fort. Initially, the post resembled a temporary military camp rather than a formal fort. However, in 1868, a second, more substantial Fort Bowie was constructed, featuring adobe barracks, houses, corrals, a trading post, and a hospital. The new fort became the focal point of military operations in the region for over 30 years.
The Apache Wars continued for many years, with both sides engaging in raids, ambushes, and battles. It wasn’t until 1886, with the surrender of Geronimo, that the Apache were finally subdued. The Chiricahua Apache were then banished to Florida and Alabama, marking the end of their traditional way of life in the Southwest.
Following the surrender of Geronimo, Fort Bowie, Arizona, gradually returned to its original purpose as a travelers’ stop until it was abandoned in 1894. In 1911, the land was sold for a mere $1.25 to $2.50 an acre, and many of the buildings were dismantled, their materials repurposed for other construction projects.
In 1964, recognizing its historical significance, the site was designated as a National Historic Site. Today, the remains of Fort Bowie, Arizona, are carefully preserved, along with the adobe walls of various post buildings and the ruins of the Butterfield Stage Station. The site is located on the unpaved Apache Pass Road, accessible from Interstate 10 near Bowie, Arizona, or Arizona Highway 186 just north of the entrance to Chiricahua National Monument. Access to the ruins of Fort Bowie and the visitor center is via a 1.5-mile foot trail that begins at a parking area along Apache Pass Road.
The hike into the fort is an integral part of the Fort Bowie experience, offering visitors a tangible sense of the isolation and challenges faced by the soldiers stationed there. The trail winds past the Butterfield Stage Coach Station, the remains of the post cemetery, an Apache Wickiup, the ruins of the Chiricahua Apache Indian Agency, Apache Spring, the original fort, and finally, the more elaborate Fort Bowie and the visitor center.
A minimum of two hours is recommended for a round-trip visit. While at the fort, visitors can explore the ruins of Fort Bowie, view the exhibits inside the visitor center, engage in bird watching, and hike the various trails. Picnic facilities are available at the trailhead and the visitor center.
The Visitor Center is open from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. every day except Christmas. The trail can be visited from sunrise to sunset. There is no admission fee.
Contact Information:
Fort Bowie National Historic Site
3327 South Old Fort Bowie Road
Bowie, Arizona 85605
520-847-2500
