Fort Cummings, New Mexico – Watering the Overland Route
Nestled within the arid landscapes of Luna County, New Mexico, lie the crumbling remains of Fort Cummings. This historical site, once a vital military outpost, stands as a silent testament to the tumultuous era of westward expansion in the United States. Its story is interwoven with the challenges of traversing unforgiving terrain, the conflicts with Native American tribes, and the strategic importance of securing vital transportation routes. Fort Cummings, though now largely a memory etched in the earth, played a pivotal role in "watering" the Overland Route, providing essential resources and protection to countless travelers venturing across the Southwest.
The genesis of Fort Cummings can be traced back to 1846, when the Mormon Battalion, under the command of Philip St. George Cooke, stumbled upon a life-giving spring during their arduous journey from Santa Fe to California. This discovery, christened Cooke’s Spring, provided a much-needed respite in the harsh desert environment. The spring, along with the nearby Cooke’s Canyon, quickly became a popular passage for those venturing westward. However, its accessibility also made it a perilous location, prone to ambushes by the Apache, who fiercely defended their ancestral lands.
Recognizing the strategic importance of Cooke’s Spring, the U.S. Army established a presence to safeguard the Overland Route and its travelers. The initial fort, a modest encampment, was founded on October 2, 1863, during the Civil War, by Captain Valentine Dresher and his Company B, 1st Infantry, California Volunteers. This marked the beginning of a more permanent military presence, intended to quell Apache hostilities and ensure the safe passage of mail, stagecoaches, and settlers.
Over the subsequent decade, Fort Cummings underwent significant expansion, transforming from a temporary outpost into a substantial military installation. Construction efforts resulted in the erection of a barracks to house the enlisted men, comfortable quarters for officers, a hospital to care for the sick and wounded, and various support buildings essential for maintaining a functional garrison. To further bolster its defenses, a high adobe wall was constructed, encircling the fort and providing an added layer of protection against potential attacks. These robust fortifications were designed to provide a secure haven in a volatile region.
The fort also served as a Butterfield Overland Mail station between 1858 and 1861, underscoring its significance as a critical link in the nation’s burgeoning transportation network. The Butterfield Overland Mail Company played a pivotal role in connecting the East and West coasts, facilitating the exchange of mail and passengers across vast distances. Fort Cummings provided a much-needed stop along this grueling route, offering fresh horses, supplies, and a sense of security to weary travelers.
In September 1867, the 38th U.S. Infantry, comprised of Buffalo Soldiers, was stationed at Fort Cummings. These African American soldiers played a crucial role in the Indian Wars and the protection of settlers on the frontier. Notably, Cathay Williams, the only documented female to serve in the all-black regiments, was stationed at the fort. The fort experienced a minor mutiny in December 1867 when a camp follower was banished for theft.
Despite its fortified defenses and the presence of U.S. troops, Fort Cummings did not witness a great deal of direct conflict with Native American tribes. While numerous expeditions and patrols ventured out from the fort, some reaching as far as Mexico, encounters with the Apache were relatively infrequent. The primary role of the soldiers was to deter attacks and maintain a visible presence, rather than actively engaging in large-scale battles.
In 1873, the fort was abandoned, and the elements took their toll on the adobe structures, resulting in decay. However, the fort was reoccupied in 1880 after Victorio and a band of Warm Springs Apache left the San Carlos reservation and started terrorizing southern New Mexico and western Texas.
An interesting anecdote from the fort’s history involves the use of the heliograph, a device that employed mirrors to reflect sunlight and transmit messages in Morse code. In 1886, one of the first test heliograph messages was relayed from Fort Cummings to Tubac, Arizona, and back, covering a distance of nearly 300 miles. This innovative technology proved to be a simple yet effective means of communication in the 19th century, remaining in use until around 1935.
Today, little remains of the once-imposing Fort Cummings. The crumbling adobe walls and earthen mounds offer a glimpse into its past. The Bureau of Land Management maintains the ruins. The site is located approximately 20 miles northeast of present-day Deming, New Mexico.
Visitors interested in exploring the remnants of Fort Cummings can follow a specific route. From Florida, New Mexico, take State Highway 26 for about seven miles, then turn onto Cooke’s Canyon Road NE at mile marker 14 by the railroad water tank. After about a mile on a gravel road, the path crosses a cattle guard and jogs left onto a distinct Jeep trail. After several more miles, the road crosses another cattle guard, and a plaque can be seen on the left and an old cemetery on the right. The ruins of Fort Cummings are about 500 yards to the north.
The story of Fort Cummings is a microcosm of the broader narrative of the American West. It speaks to the challenges and triumphs of westward expansion, the complex relationship between settlers and Native American tribes, and the strategic importance of securing vital transportation routes. While the fort itself may be in ruins, its legacy endures as a reminder of the individuals who braved the harsh realities of the frontier and helped shape the destiny of the American Southwest. The site is a destination for history buffs and those wishing to learn more about this transformative time in American history.