Fort Totten, North Dakota – Protecting the Totten Trail
Nestled on the Fort Totten Indian Reservation in the heart of North Dakota, stands a remarkable testament to the American West: Fort Totten, North Dakota. This State Historic Site, a tangible link to the past, began its existence in 1867, evolving from a humble log structure erected by soldiers into a sprawling complex of buildings. Its primary purpose was twofold: to safeguard the vital Totten Trail and to exert control over the burgeoning Fort Totten Indian Reservation.
The strategic placement of Fort Totten, North Dakota, on the southeastern shores of Devil’s Lake was no accident. The Totten Trail, a critical overland route, carved its way across the Dakota Territory, connecting southern Minnesota with the goldfields of western Montana. This trail served as a lifeline for settlers, prospectors, and the military, facilitating the movement of goods, people, and information. Fort Totten, North Dakota, was one of several military outposts strategically positioned to ensure the trail’s security.
Other notable fortifications along this crucial route included Fort Abercrombie, Fort Ransom, Fort Stevenson, and Fort Buford, all located within North Dakota. Further west, in Montana, Fort Benton played a similar role in protecting the Totten Trail. These forts formed a network of defense, ensuring the safe passage of travelers and commerce across the vast expanse of the American West.
The genesis of Fort Totten, North Dakota, can be traced back to the summer of 1867. General A.H. Terry, leading a sizable military force, ventured into the Devils Lake region. Under his command, construction commenced on the fort, which was named in honor of Brevet Major General Joseph Gilbert Totten, a distinguished figure who had served as the Chief Engineer of the United States Army. This act of naming the fort after a prominent military leader underscored its importance to the nation’s strategic interests.
The following year witnessed a significant expansion and reconstruction of Fort Totten, North Dakota. Initially, the area surrounding the fort was largely devoid of Native American presence. However, the fort’s establishment inadvertently drew the attention of the Sioux people, who arrived during the winter following its construction. The fort’s commander, recognizing the dire circumstances of the Sioux, who were suffering from starvation, generously distributed rations to prevent widespread famine.
This act of compassion fostered a relationship between the military and the Sioux, with many choosing to settle near Fort Totten, North Dakota. The presence of the fort provided not only sustenance but also a sense of security in a rapidly changing landscape. This interaction marked a significant shift in the fort’s role, transforming it from a purely military outpost into a point of contact and interaction between the United States government and the indigenous population.
In 1870, J.W. Daniels, the Indian Agent stationed at the Sisseton Indian Agency, recognized the need for dedicated representation for the Native Americans residing in the vicinity of Fort Totten, North Dakota. He recommended the appointment of an Indian Agent specifically for this purpose. The old log quarters were subsequently repurposed for the use of the Indian Department, and in May 1871, the first Indian Agent arrived. By September of that year, the Native American population around the fort had swelled to over 700 individuals, relying on government provisions and cultivating over 100 acres of land with crops such as corn, potatoes, turnips, wheat, oats, and hay.
Although the Fort Totten Indian Reservation had been envisioned as early as February 1867 through a treaty, and 360 square miles of land had been designated by an Executive Order in January 1870, the formal establishment of the reservation did not occur until 1878. This delay highlights the complexities and bureaucratic hurdles involved in the process of establishing and defining Native American reservations during this period.
Throughout the 1870s, Fort Totten, North Dakota, underwent continuous expansion. New structures were erected, including a sawmill, a granary, officers’ quarters, barracks, a hospital, a bakery, a commissary, and a school. The majority of these buildings were constructed using brick, reflecting a commitment to durability and permanence. The expansion of the fort mirrored the increasing importance of the site as both a military installation and a center for Indian affairs.
A Catholic School was established at the Indian Agency, further solidifying the fort’s role as a hub for education and cultural exchange. By 1875, the agency had grown to encompass five buildings, reflecting the growing needs of the Native American population. Finally, in 1878, the surrounding reservation was formally established for the Cut Head, Wahpeton, and Sisseton Sioux, in accordance with the 1867 treaty.
While Fort Totten, North Dakota, continued to serve as a military post, its primary focus shifted towards Indian affairs over the subsequent decade. The fort became increasingly involved in managing the reservation, providing services, and mediating between the Native American population and the United States government. This transition reflected a broader shift in government policy towards Native Americans, moving from a focus on military control to one of assimilation and management.
In 1890, Fort Totten, North Dakota, was decommissioned as a military post, marking the end of its era as a frontier fortification. The following year, the property was transferred to the Bureau of Indian Affairs, signaling a complete shift in its purpose.
For the next half-century, the buildings of Fort Totten, North Dakota, were repurposed as an Indian boarding school, a health care facility, and a reservation school. These institutions played a significant role in the lives of Native American children and families, providing education, medical care, and vocational training. The school continued to operate until 1959, leaving a lasting legacy on the community.
In 1960, the Bureau of Indian Affairs transferred the majority of the fort site to the State of North Dakota for historical preservation purposes. This act of stewardship recognized the historical significance of Fort Totten, North Dakota, and ensured its preservation for future generations. The site was subsequently transformed into Fort Totten State Historic Park, which was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1971.
Today, Fort Totten, North Dakota, stands as one of the best-preserved military posts of the frontier era. Sixteen of its original buildings remain standing, including officers’ quarters, barracks, family units, the commissary, and the bakery. These structures offer a tangible glimpse into the lives of the soldiers, families, and Native Americans who once inhabited the fort. A museum, housed in the historic hospital building, provides further insights into the fort’s history and its significance in the American West.
Fort Totten, North Dakota, is located in Benson County, on the Fort Totten Indian Reservation, just southwest of the unincorporated community of Fort Totten. It serves as a reminder of a pivotal period in American history, a time of westward expansion, military presence, and interactions between different cultures. The site offers visitors a chance to step back in time and explore the rich and complex history of the American frontier.