Furnace Creek Ranch in Death Valley, California
Nestled within the stark and surreal landscape of Death Valley National Park, California, lies an oasis of unexpected greenery and historical significance: Furnace Creek Ranch. This historic establishment, now a key component of the Oasis at Death Valley resort, boasts a rich and colorful past intertwined with the region’s borax mining boom and the persistent human desire to tame even the most unforgiving environments. From its humble beginnings as a supply point for borax operations to its current incarnation as a sprawling resort, Furnace Creek Ranch offers a fascinating glimpse into the ingenuity and resilience of those who sought to make a life in Death Valley.
The story of Furnace Creek Ranch is inextricably linked to the industrial development of Death Valley, sparked by the discovery of borax in the early 1880s. Aaron and Rose Winters’ initial find quickly attracted the attention of William T. Coleman, a prominent businessman who recognized the vast potential of the mineral deposits. Coleman purchased the Winters’ claims and embarked on establishing a large-scale borax mining operation. This endeavor necessitated the creation of support infrastructure, including a reliable supply point to provide essential provisions for the workers and the iconic twenty-mule teams that hauled the borax across the harsh desert terrain.
Coleman’s attention naturally turned to a homestead near the mouth of Furnace Creek Wash, previously established in the 1870s by a man named Bellerin Teck. This ranch, consisting of a large adobe house with a welcoming veranda, was strategically located and possessed a vital resource: water. Initially known as "Greenland" or simply "Coleman," the ranch was acquired and transformed into a crucial logistical hub. Sometime after 1889, the Pacific Coast Borax Company christened it with its enduring name: Furnace Creek Ranch.
To cultivate the arid land, Coleman sought the expertise of Italian gardeners, whom he brought to Death Valley at considerable expense. These skilled horticulturists oversaw the scientific fertilization of the soil and the planting of a diverse array of trees, transforming the barren landscape into a verdant oasis. A half-acre pond was constructed, and water was diverted from Travertine Springs in the Furnace Range through a carefully constructed stone-lined ditch. This irrigation system sustained 30 to 40 acres of alfalfa and various tree species.
With approximately 40 men employed at the nearby Harmony Borax Works, Furnace Creek Ranch served as a vital center of operations. It functioned as a terminus station for the twenty-mule teams, providing a much-needed respite for both the animals and their drivers after the grueling round-trip journey to the railhead. Under the diligent care of James Dayton, the ranch flourished. Constant irrigation fostered the growth of melons, vegetables, alfalfa, figs, and cottonwood trees. The presence of water, shade trees, and lush vegetation resulted in significantly cooler temperatures compared to the surrounding desert, often ranging from eight to ten degrees lower. By 1885, the farmstead was a thriving agricultural enterprise, producing alfalfa and hay, and raising cattle, hogs, and sheep to supply fresh meat to the Harmony Borax workers.
Coleman recognized the promotional potential of this cool, green oasis in the heart of Death Valley. He envisioned transforming Furnace Creek Ranch into a resort, attracting visitors seeking respite from the harsh desert environment. However, Coleman’s grand ambitions were ultimately thwarted by a decline in his economic fortunes. In 1890, he was forced to mortgage his holdings to Francis M. "Borax" Smith, eventually losing them altogether. Smith’s initial focus was on consolidating his borax operations at his new mine in Borate, leading to the closure of both the Harmony and Amargosa Borax Works. Despite the change in ownership, Jimmy Dayton remained as a watchman for the borax plant and caretaker of the ranch farm.
Initially, Smith lacked Coleman’s enthusiasm for developing the ranch into a resort and instead operated it solely as a commercial venture. Nevertheless, as the shade trees matured and the fruit trees prospered, the ranch evolved into a welcoming oasis, frequently visited by prospectors and other travelers in need of rest and refreshment. Smith oversaw improvements to the buildings and the planting of new tropical trees, but otherwise made few significant changes.
Dayton faithfully served as caretaker and foreman of the ranch for approximately 15 years until his death in 1899. In the early years of the 20th century, a man named Oscar Denton assumed his duties, continuing to raise alfalfa and figs with the assistance of local Native Americans. The ranch remained a popular resting place for prospectors, offering shade, bathing opportunities in the irrigation ditches, and companionship while they awaited supplies from Death Valley Junction.
Life at this seemingly idyllic oasis was not without its challenges. The intense summer heat, exacerbated by the ranch’s location 178 feet below sea level, presented a significant obstacle. This location makes it the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere where vegetation thrives. The consistently warm temperatures necessitated careful placement of young palms and other tropical plants in the shade of houses or older trees to ensure their survival. During the summer months, activity on the ranch slowed considerably during daylight hours, as the oppressive heat made all but the most essential tasks unbearable.
During the hottest parts of the day, residents and visitors alike sought refuge on the wide veranda, relaxing in hammocks and enjoying the breeze generated by a water-powered fan. The stillness of the day contrasted sharply with the evening bustle, as ranch chores were completed and the more enjoyable aspects of life – eating, drinking, and playing cards – were pursued with enthusiasm.
In the fall of 1907, rumors began to circulate that Francis Smith was considering developing Furnace Creek Ranch into a winter resort. Plans were even discussed to extend a branch line of the Death Valley Railroad to provide access to both his borax deposits along Furnace Creek Wash and the ranch itself. By the following year, the rumored plans included the establishment of a health resort catering to individuals suffering from pulmonary disorders and related ailments. However, these ambitious visions ultimately never materialized.
In 1922, the U.S. Weather Bureau established a substation at the ranch, and around the same time, experimentation began with poultry raising and date cultivation. The ranch also became involved in the production of dressed meat. After extensive experimentation, date growing emerged as the principal agricultural product of the ranch.
In 1930, following the closure of the hotel in Ryan, the borax company recognized the need for more affordable and relaxed accommodations in Death Valley compared to the upscale Furnace Creek Inn. Furnace Creek Ranch, with its abundant water supply and level terrain, was deemed the ideal location for such an undertaking. Eighteen tent houses, originally used as a construction camp for the Furnace Creek Inn, were relocated to the site. These were supplemented by several workers’ bungalows from the recently completed Boulder (later Hoover) Dam, which were remodeled for tourist use. A 16 x 36-foot boarding house and cabins from the abandoned Gerstley Mine near Shoshone were also incorporated to expand the accommodations.
The Ranch hotel officially opened its doors in 1933. For the first two years, the wives of the Ranch foreman and mechanic managed the hotel, which underwent continuous enlargement and expansion over the next decade. The remaining cabins were constructed between 1935 and 1939, while the lobby, store, and dining room were built in 1934-35. In 1936, a building initially used for drying dates was converted into a schoolhouse for 15-20 children. The recreation hall was built in 1936, the kitchen was enlarged in 1952, and the office and swimming pool were added in 1952.
The onset of World War II not only postponed a planned $150,000 building program by the Pacific Coast Borax Company, which included a new lobby, dining room, coffee shop, kitchen, parking facilities, and fifty new cabins, but also led to a temporary shutdown of services. By this time, however, the Ranch offered accommodations for 350 people, along with a nine-hole all-grass golf course added in 1930. After a three-year hiatus, the Ranch, Inn, and Amargosa Hotel reopened in 1945 and were managed by Charles Scholl for ten years. In 1955, the properties were leased to the Fred Harvey organization, which decided to concentrate its operations within the valley, resulting in the sale of the Amargosa Hotel in 1959. The newest units at the Ranch, located alongside the golf course, were completed in 1975, and additional recreational facilities, such as tennis courts, were added in 1977.
Today, Furnace Creek Ranch is owned by the Xanterra Corporation and forms part of the Oasis At Death Valley Resort. The complex offers guests a wide range of amenities, including an 18-hole golf course, three restaurants, a saloon, swimming pool, tennis courts, horseback riding, tours, and an airstrip. There are 224 guest units available. A key feature of the ranch is the Borax Museum, which opened in the 1950s. The old borax office building from Twenty-Mule-Team Canyon was relocated to the Ranch around 1954, and its interior was filled with exhibits on mining, the Native American history of the valley, and railroad history. The museum’s outdoor exhibits include antique vehicles, wagons, a stagecoach, the Death Valley Railroad Engine No. 2, and more. The Four Diamond Inn (also known as Furnace Creek Inn) is also part of the resort.
Furnace Creek Ranch is located on Highway 190 in Furnace Creek, California, and continues to welcome visitors from around the world, offering a unique blend of history, recreation, and stunning desert scenery.