Galena, South Dakota – Thriving on Silver – Legends of America
Nestled within the rugged embrace of the Black Hills in Lawrence County, South Dakota, lies Galena, a ghost town whispering tales of silver booms and bygone eras. Positioned approximately 11 miles southeast of the infamous Deadwood, Galena’s story is interwoven with the allure of precious metals, the grit of prospectors, and the echoes of a community forged in the heart of the American West.
The Spark of Discovery
The narrative of Galena begins in 1874, amidst the fervor ignited by the discovery of gold within the Black Hills. This revelation drew a flood of prospectors to the region, many of whom trespassed upon lands guaranteed to the Lakota people under the 1851 Treaty of Fort Laramie. In 1875, amidst this influx, a group of miners ventured into a gulch near Bear Butte Creek, driven by the insatiable hunger for gold. However, destiny had a different treasure in store for them. Instead of the glittering yellow metal, they unearthed veins of galena, a mineral rich in lead and silver. This unexpected discovery shifted their focus, and soon, the miners turned their attention to extracting silver from the earth.
By March 1876, claims were staked, and a mining camp began to take shape. This nascent settlement, christened Galena, became a magnet for those seeking fortune and a new life in the burgeoning West.
The Fabric of a Frontier Town
Among the first to stake a claim in the area was Sarah "Aunt Sally" Campbell, an extraordinary woman whose life story embodies the spirit of the frontier. A former slave, Aunt Sally is believed to be the first non-Native American woman to set foot in the Black Hills. She initially arrived with George Custer’s 1874 Expedition as a cook. Demonstrating remarkable resilience and entrepreneurial spirit, she later acquired a ranch in Galena, where she lived until her death in 1888. Her final resting place is in the Vinegar Hill Cemetery, a testament to her enduring legacy.
The earliest structures in Galena were rudimentary, constructed from the readily available resources of dirt and wood. In October 1876, James Conzette erected a cabin, intending it to serve as a fort against potential Native American raids. However, it never fulfilled this purpose. As the camp grew, it gradually acquired the essential elements of a frontier town: an assay shop for evaluating the value of ore, a handful of businesses, a boarding house to accommodate transient workers, and a population that soon reached 75 residents.
Mining Dreams and Fortunes Forged
The Cora Mine quickly emerged as one of the most productive in the area. Other notable mines included the Branch Mint, Gilt Edge Main, Golden Crest, Oro Hondo, and several mines named Emma, in honor of a local boarding house worker who inspired the miners. To meet the increasing demand for lumber, a sawmill was established, and additional mines, such as the Sitting Bull, Florence, Merritt, Washington, and El Refugio, were developed. A network of shafts and tunnels crisscrossed the landscape surrounding these mines, marking the intense activity beneath the surface.
In December 1876, a local newspaper lauded the Sitting Bull Mine as "a new discovery at Bear Butte, and prospects, as well as the best previously located, and from appearances, is a true mine." The town continued to flourish throughout the 1870s, attracting a diverse array of residents and businesses. A physician, shoemaker, two hotels, restaurants, saloons, a tin shop, several retail stores, and even an opera house appeared, transforming Galena into a vibrant hub of commerce and entertainment.
By June 1877, Galena boasted a population of approximately 200, supported by four stores, three butcher shops, and a livery yard. By the following month, the town had grown to around 275 residents, including 25 women. Around this time, a post office was established, solidifying Galena’s place within the larger network of communication and commerce. The construction of the McDonald Smelter in 1877 marked a significant milestone, as it was the first such facility in the Black Hills. By the end of the year, Galena’s population had reached 400, with 75 homes and a mail line connecting it to Deadwood.
Thomas Francis Walsh: From Carpenter to Millionaire
During this period of growth, a fortune-seeker named Thomas Francis Walsh arrived in Galena, seeking to capitalize on the mining boom by selling tools to prospectors. Walsh, an Irish immigrant who had traveled from New England to the Black Hills in the spring of 1876, initially found work in Deadwood as a carpenter. He later partnered with Jerry Dailey, constructing sluice boxes for miners. The two men also sought their own fortunes, staking the Anchor claim northwest of Galena.
However, Walsh’s ambition led him to Leadville, Colorado, and later to Ouray, where he struck it rich with his stake in the Camp Bird Mine, becoming a multimillionaire. His daughter, Evalyn Walsh McLean, a prominent socialite, would later become the last private owner of the Hope Diamond. Despite his later success, Walsh’s humble beginnings in Galena are still commemorated by his surviving shack home.
Colonel Davey and the Rise and Fall of the Sitting Bull Mine
In 1878, Colonel J.S. Davey, a wealthy businessman from Chicago, Illinois, arrived in Galena. He began leasing and purchasing several mines, including the Florence, the Sitting Bull, and the Yellow Jacket Mines, as well as acquiring shares in other mining claims. He then built a new mill to process the ore. In 1879, the Sitting Bull Mine shipped out $14,000 worth of silver and lead, demonstrating its potential.
By 1881, mining operations were thriving, and Galena experienced another surge of growth. Older cabins were replaced with new structures, and a barbershop, grocery stores, a restaurant, and a hardware store opened their doors. Plans were made for two additional hotels. Further improvements included the addition of two more express stagecoach lines from Deadwood, a new stage line between Galena and Sturgis, and the installation of a telephone line, connecting Galena to the outside world.
Colonel Davey’s son, Frank, also joined the mining business, partnering with Patrick Gorman to purchase the McClellan Claim. However, their partnership was short-lived, dissolving after a disagreement. In 1882, Frank and a mine guard named Billy Thatcher encountered a drunk and disorderly Patrick Gorman on their way to the post office. An argument ensued, and when Patrick began physically assaulting Frank, Billy intervened and fatally shot Patrick. Colonel Davey spared no expense in Billy’s legal defense, and the guard was acquitted. Afterward, Thatcher left town and never returned.
Community and Conflict
Prior to 1882, education for the children of Galena took place in private residences and Delong’s Hall. However, in April 1882, the school board decided to construct a dedicated schoolhouse. The framed wooden building was dedicated in September 1882 and remains standing today. The same year, a Catholic Church and a Methodist Church were built. However, the Methodist preacher absconded with the church funds, preventing its official opening. Instead, it was used as a dance and social hall.
In 1883, Colonel Davey expanded his mill to 20 stamps and added a sizable smelter. He employed 125 miners and generated approximately $500 per day, primarily from silver. By this time, the Sitting Bull property had yielded over $750,000 in silver. However, Colonel Davey’s success in Galena was not to last. A legal dispute arose with the owners of the Richmond Mine, located near the Sitting Bull Mine, who accused Davey and his crew of tunneling into their claim. The ensuing trial caused all of Davey’s properties to cease operations, impacting the population of Galena.
The dispute escalated, dividing the townspeople. Davey and the Sitting Bull Mine asserted their right to follow the ore under the Apex Law, but after 95 witnesses were questioned, the judge ruled in favor of the Richmond Claim. Davey incurred significant financial losses from legal expenses and other costs related to the trial. After several years and an appeal to the U.S. Supreme Court, Davey abandoned his Black Hills mining properties and sought his fortune in the goldfields of Idaho.
Davey’s mines were not the only ones embroiled in disputes, as many of the mines in the area were situated close to one another. East Coast venture capitalists backed some of these operations, and lawsuits were commonplace. Consequently, a significant portion of the mines’ profits ended up in the hands of attorneys.
Decline and Resurgence
Following Colonel Davey’s departure, the Sitting Bull Company was liquidated, and the Richmond Mine acquired its properties. In 1886, Galena experienced a brief resurgence as eight mining companies extracted ore from the mines. However, this period ended when the price of silver plummeted. A rebound in 1895 brought renewed activity to the mines and the town, but this revival was short-lived, lasting only until 1897. The Union Mining Company subsequently acquired most of the surrounding mines, but the operations failed within a year, and the company abandoned its plans to build a large stamp mill. Other mining operations continued until 1891, when ore depletion and low silver prices forced their closure.
At its peak, Galena was home to as many as 2,000 people.
By 1900, many of the Galena properties had begun to deteriorate. However, the introduction of new milling technologies in the early 20th century led to the reopening of some mines, including the Union Hill, Gilt Edge, and Branch Mint Mines. The arrival of the Burlington and Missouri River Railroad in 1902 brought a short resurgence to Galena. Many buildings were repaired, and the Deadwood Pioneer Times reported that "ore shipments from the district are growing every day, and the road will soon have all it can do to handle them."
The Union Hill Mine closed shortly after the railroad’s arrival, but other mines started up, and the Galena spur continued to operate. The Richmond-Sitting Bull Mining Company was formed in 1905, and sporadic activity occurred under various owners until 1922, but little ore was produced.
The Branch Mint Mining Company, with over 200 claims, a 20 stamp mill, and a narrow-gauge railroad connecting the mine to the mill, was one of the largest mining operators in the Galena District. The mill was located at the far end of town, near the Richmond-Sitting Bull property. The Branch Mint was once the hope of Galena, with the company investing heavily in its development. However, the mining company went into receivership in 1912.
Unfortunately, the Burlington and Missouri River Railroad discontinued operations in 1912. In the 1920s, a Black Hills newspaper described Galena as "nothing more than a post office."
In 1929, the railroad tracks were removed, and by the end of the Great Depression, all the area mines had closed, except for The Double Rainbow.
In 1940, another mining company opened the Gilt Edge Mine, briefly reviving the town. However, this revival was insufficient to sustain Galena. The Galena school closed in summer 1943. Over the years, many wood frame buildings fell into disrepair, and the lumber was repurposed or hauled away. The Catholic Church was torn down. Other structures were repurposed, such as the Borsch Boarding House, which became the Borsch Resort, catering to visitors seeking a quiet retreat in the mountains and enjoying the resort’s famous chicken dinners.
In the early 1970s, the Homestake Mining Company reopened some of the silver mines when the Hunt brothers cornered the silver market and drove the price up to $50 an ounce.
Galena Today: A Living Ghost Town
Today, a few families still reside in Galena, and several vacation homes are located in the area. With a population of approximately 25, the Galena Historical Society works to preserve the historic buildings, particularly the old Galena schoolhouse, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Perched on the hillside above Galena, the schoolhouse has remained largely unchanged since its construction in 1882. The desks, books, blackboards, piano, organ, and portraits of Washington, Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt remain as they were left in 1942.
The Historical Society also hosts the annual Galena Historic Walk and fundraiser on the second Saturday of each June. This event features historical interpreters dressed in period clothing who allow visitors to explore some of the historic buildings. The event also provides a festival-like atmosphere of food and music.
To reach Galena from Deadwood, take U.S. Highway 385 South for seven miles to Wild Bill’s Campground. Turn left onto Galena Road (Forest Roads 534 and 170) and follow it for approximately four miles.
Galena stands as a testament to the enduring allure of silver, the resilience of frontier communities, and the enduring power of history. While it may be a ghost town in many respects, its stories continue to resonate, inviting visitors to step back in time and experience the spirit of the American West.