Grafton, Utah – Virgin River Ghost Town
Nestled along the banks of the Virgin River, just a stone’s throw south of the majestic Zion National Park, lies Grafton, Utah, a captivating ghost town. This spectral settlement, a testament to the resilience and struggles of Mormon pioneers, stands as one of the most visually arresting and historically significant ghost towns in the American West. Its weathered buildings, frozen in time, offer a poignant glimpse into a bygone era, drawing photographers, historians, and curious travelers alike.
The story of Grafton, Utah begins with Brigham Young, the charismatic leader of the Mormon pioneers. Following their arduous journey and settlement in the valley of the Great Salt Lake in 1847, Young envisioned a vast territory, a veritable "state" of Deseret, where his followers could practice their religion freely, unburdened by persecution. To realize this ambitious dream, he initiated a systematic colonization of the region, establishing some 500 villages over the next half-century. These settlements served not only to claim the land but also to secure vital resources and foster self-sufficiency among the Mormon community.
Young recognized the agricultural potential of the southern reaches of what would eventually become Utah, an area he affectionately dubbed "Dixie." The warmer climate, he reasoned, coupled with irrigation, could yield bountiful harvests of cotton. Following successful experiments in Santa Clara in 1854, Young launched the Cotton Mission, dispatching numerous families and single men southward. These pioneers were encouraged to marry swiftly and establish cotton farming communities along the upper Virgin River. The landscape soon sprouted settlements like Virgin (1857), Wheeler/Grafton (1859), Adventure (1860), Duncans Retreat and Northup (1861), and Shunesburg, Rockville, and Springdale (1862). These communities represented a bold attempt to cultivate a new life in a challenging environment.
The genesis of Grafton, Utah itself can be traced to 1859 when five families from Virgin River established a modest settlement called Wheeler. This initial endeavor, however, was short-lived. In January 1862, a devastating week-long flood swept through the valley, obliterating Wheeler. Undeterred, the settlers regrouped and rebuilt about a mile upstream, christening their new settlement New Grafton, in honor of Grafton, Massachusetts, their ancestral ties perhaps providing a sense of continuity and hope in the face of adversity.
Within two years, New Grafton had blossomed into a small but vibrant community, home to approximately 28 families, totaling around 168 individuals. The town boasted a collection of sturdy log houses, a post office, a church, and a combined schoolhouse and community hall. Each family cultivated a small plot of land, typically about one acre, in narrow strips along the Virgin River. They painstakingly dug irrigation canals to channel the precious water and planted cotton, orchards, and private gardens, striving to create a self-sustaining oasis in the arid landscape.
Life in the fertile valley, however, was far from idyllic. The very river that sustained them, the Virgin River, was also their greatest adversary. Its unpredictable nature often turned against them, unleashing destructive floods that washed away dams, ditches, and crops. At other times, the receding waters left the land vulnerable to erosion. While cotton was indeed grown, the majority of their limited land was devoted to the production of essential food crops, a testament to the constant struggle for survival. The pioneers were in a constant battle against the elements.
Despite the hardships, the families of Grafton, Utah found solace and joy in social activities. Swimming, horseback riding, picnics, holiday parties, Sunday worship services, and other religious gatherings formed the fabric of their community life. These moments of camaraderie and shared faith provided a much-needed respite from the daily grind and strengthened their bonds in the face of adversity.
Adding to their challenges were the intermittent conflicts with Native Americans during the Black Hawk War (1865-68). In 1866, the Indian attacks escalated to such a degree that the residents of Grafton were forced to evacuate to the relative safety of nearby Rockville. Though they returned daily to tend to their farms, the settlement was not permanently reoccupied until 1868, highlighting the constant state of uncertainty and fear that permeated their lives.
The year 1868 brought further devastation in the form of another catastrophic flood, which decimated the community. Many residents, weary of the relentless struggle, succumbed to despair and abandoned Grafton, Utah. When church officials visited the towns along the Virgin River the following year, seeking to bolster morale and reinforce religious conviction, they were met with widespread desertion, a stark indication of the profound impact of the hardships they had endured.
In 1886, the resilient residents of Grafton constructed a two-story adobe schoolhouse. This building served not only as a place of learning but also as a church and a community center, hosting social activities and meetings. The preserved structure stands today as a powerful symbol of the community’s enduring spirit and remains one of the most photographed buildings in the ghost town.
By the dawn of the 20th century, neighboring settlements such as Duncan’s Retreat and Shunesburg had been completely abandoned, yet Grafton, Utah managed to cling to life, albeit with a dwindling population. Many of the remaining residents had abandoned farming in favor of ranching, recognizing the unpredictable nature of the Virgin River. However, the construction of the Hurricane Canal in 1906, which diverted the river’s waters to a wide bench 20 miles downstream, proved to be the final blow. Drawn by the promise of more reliable irrigation and a better life, many Grafton families packed up their belongings and moved to Hurricane.
Another devastating flood in 1909 further accelerated the exodus. The last classes were held in the school during the 1918-19 school year, when enrollment plummeted to a mere nine students. The following year, the remaining students were transferred to Rockville School, marking the end of an era.
By 1920, the population of Grafton, Utah had dwindled to a mere three families, and the local Mormon Church was discontinued the following year. The last permanent residents, Frank Russell and his wife, Ellen, finally departed in 1944, leaving behind a silent testament to a community that had once thrived. Tellingly, electricity, plumbing, and other modern utilities were never introduced into Grafton homes, further underscoring its isolation and the simplicity of life that its residents had known.
Today, this historic community is carefully preserved by the Grafton Heritage Partnership Project, a non-profit organization that unites government and private landowner interests in safeguarding Grafton as a historic site.
The preserved and restored structures of Grafton, Utah are situated in a breathtaking valley, framed by the awe-inspiring mountains and formations of Zion National Park. It comes as no surprise that the site has served as a backdrop for several films, most notably the iconic 1969 film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, starring Robert Redford and Paul Newman, forever cementing Grafton’s place in cinematic history.
The old townsite features several original buildings, including the aforementioned 1886 two-story adobe schoolhouse. The site also includes the adobe home of the Alonzo Russell family, constructed in 1861. Russell, a blacksmith by trade, provided essential services to the settlement. He resided in the home until his death in 1910 at the age of 89. His son, Frank, and daughter-in-law, Mary Ballard Russell, moved into the house in 1917 and lived there until their departure for St. George in 1944, becoming the last residents to leave Grafton.
Other notable structures include the brick 1877 John Wood Home and a log barn and granary, all enclosed by a historic split rail fence. The 1907 wooden Ballard Home and barn also remain standing, along with another home built in 1879 and owned by Alonzo Russell. A short distance from Grafton lies the 1862 Grafton Cemetery, which served the community until 1924.
Grafton, Utah, situated just south of Zion National Park, is accessible by driving to Rockville, Utah, on UT-9 and turning south onto Bridge Lane. The road traverses the Virgin River via a historic, single-track iron bridge before heading westward. The pavement eventually gives way to a 9-mile scenic back road, the Smithsonian Butte Road, which winds through the hills to the cemetery. The townsite is located just beyond the cemetery, a tangible link to the past, inviting visitors to step back in time and contemplate the lives and legacies of those who once called this place home.
For those interested in learning more or supporting preservation efforts, the Grafton Heritage Partnership Project can be contacted at P.O. Box 630184, Rockville, Utah 84763, or by phone at 435-635-2133. Additional information can also be found on their website at graftonheritage.org.