Holbrook, Arizona – Too Tough For Women or Churches
Holbrook, Arizona, a town etched into the annals of the American West, stands as a testament to the rugged spirit of pioneers and the enduring allure of Route 66. Nestled in Navajo County, this town began as a railroad outpost, transforming into a bustling hub with the arrival of the Mother Road. However, Holbrook’s story is more than just one of progress; it’s a chronicle of grit, lawlessness, and a slow but steady march toward civilization, marked by its unique reputation for being "too tough for women or churches."
The genesis of Holbrook can be traced back to 1881 when the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad laid its tracks through a region formerly known as Horsehead Crossing. The subsequent year saw the construction of a railroad station, christened Holbrook in honor of H.R. Holbrook, the esteemed chief engineer of the railroad. This marked the official establishment of the town, and a year later, with the opening of the first post office, James H. Wilson was appointed as its first postmaster, solidifying Holbrook’s place on the map.
Initially, Holbrook, Arizona, was populated primarily by cowboys, cattle ranchers, and railroad workers. This demographic quickly molded the settlement into a stereotypical Wild West town, embodying all the associated vices. Saloons, most notably one aptly named the "Bucket of Blood," became the central gathering places. Law and order were virtually nonexistent, gambling flourished, and the ratio of "painted ladies" to "proper women" was drastically skewed, contributing to the town’s notorious reputation.
In 1883, four individuals – Baca, Pedro Montano, F. W. Smith, and H.H. Scorse – recognized the potential of the area surrounding the depot. They formally filed a plat map, meticulously laying out the streets of Holbrook. Remarkably, the layout they established remains largely unchanged to this day, a lasting legacy of the town’s early planners.
As a trade center for northern Arizona, Holbrook experienced a surge in economic activity. Cattle, sheep, and wool were regularly shipped out via the railroad, connecting the region to broader markets. Further cementing its status as a growing community, the first issue of the Holbrook Times was published on May 17, 1884. The newspaper featured advertisements for various establishments, including clothing stores, hotels, saloons, and grocery stores, reflecting the diverse needs and emerging commercial landscape of the town.
The year 1884 also marked the arrival of the Aztec Land and Cattle Company, better known as the Hashknife Outfit. This massive operation, the second-largest cattle ranch in the United States, boasted a staggering 60,000 head of cattle and employed hundreds of cowboys. While initially welcomed for the economic boost it provided, the Hashknife Outfit soon became a source of both prosperity and turmoil.
The cowboys associated with the Hashknife Outfit quickly earned a reputation as the "thievinist, fightinest bunch of cowboys" in the United States. Many were wanted men, seeking refuge in the anonymity of the West. On two separate occasions, Hashknife cowboys were even implicated in train robberies at Canyon Diablo, further contributing to Holbrook, Arizona’s burgeoning reputation as a lawless town.
The influx of cowboys inevitably led to an increase in criminal activity, including rustling, robbery, and frequent gunfights. Ironically, much of the rustling was directed at the Hashknife Outfit itself, as disgruntled cowboys and opportunistic outlaws sought to profit from the company’s vast holdings.
One such tale tells of a cowboy who absconded with a herd of Hashknife cattle, making his way to Colorado. There, he used his ill-gotten gains to establish a saloon. However, his fortune was short-lived, and he eventually found himself penniless and once again seeking employment with the Hashknife Outfit.
Stagecoach and train robberies became commonplace occurrences, almost a form of recreation for the cowboys and drifters who populated the area. Whenever the cowboys descended upon Holbrook with money in their pockets and whiskey on their minds, the town braced itself for trouble. In 1886 alone, a staggering 26 shooting deaths occurred on the streets of Holbrook, a shocking statistic considering the town’s population of only around 250 residents. This level of violence contributed significantly to the notion that Holbrook, Arizona was simply too tough for most people.
It was during this turbulent period that the St. Johns Herald wryly observed, "The Salvation Army is going to visit Holbrook. A good field for operation." The comment highlighted the dire need for moral and spiritual guidance in a town seemingly spiraling out of control.
Recognizing the urgent need for law enforcement, Sheriff Commodore Perry Owens arrived in 1887, determined to bring order to the wild and unruly town. His efforts were quickly put to the test when a warrant was issued for the arrest of a man named Andy Cooper on charges of cattle rustling. Cooper, it turned out, was actually Andy Blevins, who had changed his name to evade an outstanding warrant for murder in Texas.
On September 4, 1887, Sheriff Owens confronted the Blevins family at their home. Cooper, also known as Blevins, refused to surrender. A violent confrontation ensued, resulting in the deaths of Andy, Sam Blevins (Andy’s younger brother), and a family friend named Mose Roberts. John Blevins, Andy’s half-brother, was also wounded in the shootout. This infamous gunfight, which lasted less than a minute, cemented Sheriff Owens’ reputation and served as a stark warning to outlaws in the area. Today, the historic site of the gunfight still stands on Central Avenue in Holbrook, a silent reminder of the town’s violent past.
In 1888, Holbrook suffered another devastating blow when a fire swept through the town, nearly destroying every building. Despite the immense challenges, the resilient pioneers of Holbrook refused to be defeated. They rebuilt their town, brick by brick, demonstrating their unwavering determination to persevere.
Despite its continued struggles with lawlessness, Holbrook was granted the honor of becoming the county seat in 1895. Just three years later, a new courthouse was constructed, symbolizing the town’s commitment to establishing a more stable and lawful society. This historic building, now listed on the National Register of Historic Places, stands as a testament to Holbrook’s transformation and currently serves as the Holbrook Visitor Center and Museum. The museum offers a glimpse into the tumultuous history of Holbrook, Arizona, showcasing its evolution from a lawless outpost to a modern town.
By 1914, Holbrook, Arizona held the unique distinction of being the only county seat in the United States without a church. However, it did boast one of the famous Fred Harvey Restaurants, housed in several repurposed boxcars on a rail siding, providing weary travelers with a much-needed respite and a taste of civilization.
The arrival of Route 66 brought new hope and opportunities to Holbrook. The once-wild and lawless town had begun to settle down, and the iconic highway symbolized progress and prosperity. The end of World War II ushered in an era of increased tourism as the gas shortage eased, and travelers once again took to the open road.
During this period, numerous souvenir shops, including the PowWow Trading Post, sprung up along Route 66, offering tourists a chance to purchase unique mementos, such as petrified wood and Native American crafts. In 1950, the Wigwam Village was constructed, a quirky roadside attraction that continues to welcome guests to this day. For those seeking a bite to eat, Joe and Aggie’s Cafe and Romo’s Cafe offered classic diner fare, satisfying the appetites of travelers passing through.
Today, Holbrook is a town of just over 5,000 residents, offering visitors a gateway to explore the rich cultural heritage of the Navajo, Hopi, and Apache nations. The nearby Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park showcase the stunning natural beauty of the region. Additionally, Holbrook’s many Route 66-era landmarks provide a nostalgic glimpse into the golden age of American road travel.
For those traveling along Route 66, a stop at the Geronimo Trading Post just outside of town is a must. From there, travelers can continue their journey down the Mother Road towards Joseph City and Winslow, Arizona, experiencing the enduring charm of the American Southwest. While Holbrook may have once been deemed "too tough for women or churches," it has evolved into a welcoming community that embraces its past while looking towards the future.