Houck, Arizona – Home of Fort Courage – Legends of America
Nestled a mere three miles west of Allentown, Arizona, along the historic Route 66, lies the unassuming town of Houck. This small community, home to just over a thousand residents, holds a unique place in the tapestry of the American Southwest. Known as Ma’ii Tł’óó’í by the Navajo people, meaning "Coyote Water," the town’s name is derived from a local spring, a vital source of life in this arid landscape.
A Crossroads of History:
Houck’s origins trace back to the era of express riders, who braved the vast distances to deliver mail between Prescott, Arizona, and Fort Wingate, New Mexico. The first route through the area was a rugged wagon road, carving its way along the southern banks of the Puerco River. This vital artery connected Fort Wingate with Fort Whipple, Arizona, laying the foundation for what would become the "Overland Stage Road." By the 1870s, this road was in regular use, a testament to the relentless westward expansion of the United States. Further west, it intersected with the Beale Wagon Road of 1858 at Navajo Springs, creating a significant crossroads for travelers and commerce.
James D. Houck: A Pioneer’s Legacy:
In 1874, James D. Houck, the very mail carrier who traversed this challenging terrain, established a trading post on the south side of the Puerco River. Recognizing the need for a reliable water source, he built a water tank alongside the post, leading the site to be initially known as Houck’s Tank. The main structure of the trading post was an oblong building constructed from red sandstone, held together with mud and mortar, a testament to the ingenuity of early settlers.
Beyond operating the trading post, Houck also ventured into sheep herding, further solidifying his presence in the area. However, the early days were not without their challenges. In 1880, William Walker and William Smith fell victim to violence at the hands of Native Americans, a stark reminder of the conflicts that plagued the frontier.
Houck’s involvement in local affairs extended beyond his trading post. In 1885, he served as a representative in the Arizona Territorial Legislature, demonstrating his commitment to shaping the future of the region. He later served as an Apache County Deputy Sheriff under Commodore Perry Owens during the tumultuous Pleasant Valley War, a bloody conflict between sheep and cattlemen that erupted in 1887. During this conflict, William Graham was gunned down on August 17, 1887. He lived long enough to identify Ed Tewskbury as the shooter. However, Deputy J.D. Houck publicly announced that he had shot and killed the man. The following year, he was involved in the lynching of three alleged cattle rustlers. He eventually went north of Phoenix, where he operated a sheep ranch.
Despite his contributions, Houck’s legacy is intertwined with controversy. His involvement in the Pleasant Valley War and the subsequent lynching of alleged cattle rustlers cast a shadow over his reputation, highlighting the complex and often brutal realities of life on the frontier.
The Rise and Fall of a Trading Post:
Houck continued to operate the trading post intermittently until 1885 when he moved to the Mogollon Mountains. The trading post changed hands several times, serving the community until 1922. However, a significant shift occurred when the highway was rerouted to the north side of the Puerco River. With a competitor securing a trading license for a new store along the rerouted road, the owner of Houck’s Trading Post was forced to abandon the site. The buildings were then repurposed as a line camp by cowboys from a neighboring ranch. Sadly, no traces of the original trading post remain today.
A Town Shaped by Progress:
The construction of the transcontinental railroad in 1881 further transformed the landscape, initially crossing the Puerco River from north to south. In 1884, a post office was established in Houck, with J.W. Bennett, the second owner of Houck’s Trading Post, serving as the first postmaster.
In 1913, the wagon road, known as the Adamana-State Line Highway, became an alternative route of the U.S. Old Trails Highway. Around 1920, the highway was rerouted to the north side of the Puerco River, prompting most businesses to relocate to the new thoroughfare. The rerouted Old Trails Highway eventually became part of the iconic Route 66 in 1926, forever linking Houck to the "Mother Road."
White Mound Trading Post: A Route 66 Landmark:
While several trading posts dotted the area over the years, the White Mound Trading Post emerged as the most prominent during the Route 66 era. Established around 1924 by Joseph Grubbs, the post was initially located north of the Allentown Bridge along the U.S. Old Trails Highway.
Around 1933, the highway was rerouted further north, prompting Grubbs to relocate the store to the tract now occupied by Fort Courage, a tourist facility that would later become a local landmark. In 1934, the Arizona Navajo Reservation Boundary Act extended the reservation boundary south of the new store. Consequently, in 1936, Joseph Grubbs deeded the land to the U.S. government. Despite the change in ownership, the store continued to operate into the late 1940s under the ownership of Al Frick, who also owned the Lupton Trading Post store.
Unlike many other small towns along Route 66, the increased traffic had a limited impact on Houck, which never grew beyond a trading post, gas station, and grocery store. The White Mound Trading Post also housed Houck’s post office from 1924 until 1946, further cementing its role as a community hub.
The Legacy of Fort Courage:
In 1958, the construction of U.S. Interstate 40 bypassed Route 66, leading to the closure of the White Mound Trading Post two years later. However, in the 1960s, a new modern trading post was built on the same site, ushering in a new era for Houck.
Inspired by the 1960s television show F-Troop, Fort Courage was a replica fort designed to resemble the one from the classic show. Over the years, this unique stop featured a coffee shop, restaurant, gas station, grocery store, gift shop, and trading post. The trading post offered a wide selection of authentic Indian jewelry, Navajo rugs, and various curios and souvenirs, attracting tourists and locals alike. The site also included motel units, a trailer park, and a campground, making it a popular destination for travelers seeking a taste of the Old West.
However, time took its toll on Fort Courage. By 2010, the motel units had been converted into apartments, and wrecked vehicles cluttered the landscape. By 2014, all facets of the "old fort" had closed their doors for good, marking the end of an era.
A Tragic Loss:
On May 17, 2020, tragedy struck when a fire engulfed a significant portion of the old Route 66 attraction, including one of the iconic towers. Fire crews managed to contain the blaze, preventing it from spreading to other structures. Three suspects were later arrested for arson, adding another layer of sadness to the story of Fort Courage.
Today, Fort Courage stands as a mere shell of its former self, its deteriorating and abandoned buildings serving as a poignant reminder of more prosperous times.
Allentown Bridge: A Historic Landmark:
Just south of Houck lies the old Allentown Bridge, also known as the Puerco River Bridge, a testament to the engineering prowess of the past. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the bridge was part of the National Old Trails Road in 1923 and later became part of Route 66 from 1926 to 1931. Located south of I-40, exit 351, on Indian Route 9402/Allentown Road, the single-span wooden timber bridge stands as a tangible link to the early days of vehicular travel.
Querino Canyon Bridge: A Picturesque Relic:
Past Houck, at the Pine Springs Exit #346, Route 66 travelers can follow an old alignment on the north frontage road. This road leads through a box canyon, past the ruins of the Old Querino Canyon Trading Post, and across the Querino Canyon Bridge. However, travelers should be aware that the north frontage road soon turns to dirt and can become impassable during periods of rain.
The Querino Canyon Bridge is a picturesque structure nestled over a rugged canyon outside Houck, Arizona. Designed by the Arizona Highway Department, the bridge is a prime example of early highway truss design. Spanning 77 feet in length and 20 feet in width, it features a concrete-decked steel trestle with three Pratt deck trusses supported by steel piers. Concrete abutments provide support from below, while steel lattice guardrails, typical of the period, line the roadway.
Constructed in 1929 as part of a major rehabilitation and relocation of Route 66 across northern Arizona, the bridge played a crucial role in connecting communities and facilitating commerce. The project included several bridges, drainage construction, and at least 25 miles of roadway. As the largest of these efforts, the bridge over Querino Canyon formed an integral link on one of America’s primary arteries.
After the construction of Interstate 40 in the 1960s, this section of the highway became a county road. Today, the Querino Canyon Bridge remains intact, carrying local traffic on the Navajo Indian Reservation. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1988, recognizing its significance in American history.
The Allure of the Painted Desert:
As you journey through Sanders and Chambers towards Navajo, the landscape transforms, revealing signs of the Painted Desert, a mesmerizing expanse of multi-colored sand formations and breathtaking vistas. Spanning nearly 100,000 acres, the Painted Desert stretches from the Petrified Forest to the Grand Canyon, captivating visitors with its surreal beauty. At times, even the sky above this colorful park seems to glow with the pink and purple hues of the desert, creating an unforgettable experience.
Houck, Arizona, may be a small town, but its history is rich and multifaceted. From its origins as a trading post on the Overland Stage Road to its brief stint as a Route 66 destination, Houck has witnessed the ebb and flow of American history. While Fort Courage may no longer be the vibrant tourist attraction it once was, its legacy lives on, reminding us of the pioneering spirit and the enduring allure of the American West.