Hovenweep National Monument
Nestled along the rugged mesa tops that straddle the Colorado-Utah border, Hovenweep National Monument stands as a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of the ancestral Puebloan people. This protected area, encompassing six distinct prehistoric Pueblo villages spread across a twenty-mile expanse, offers visitors a unique opportunity to step back in time and explore the remnants of a thriving civilization. The monument is particularly valued for its serene solitude and largely undeveloped, natural landscape, allowing for an immersive experience with history and nature.
The name "Hovenweep" itself carries a poignant history. Bestowed upon the region in 1874 by the explorer and photographer William Henry Jackson, the name is derived from the Ute Indian language. It translates to "deserted valley," a description that poignantly reflects the numerous small river valleys that wind their way into the lower reaches of McElmo Creek and, eventually, the San Juan River. This evocative name hints at the mysteries surrounding the abandonment of these once-vibrant settlements.
Hovenweep National Monument was officially proclaimed as a National Monument on March 2, 1923, by President Warren G. Harding, marking a significant step in preserving this invaluable cultural heritage. The monument is divided geographically, with four of the Pueblo villages located within the state of Colorado. These include the sites of Holly Canyon, Hackberry Canyon, Cutthroat Castle, and Goodman Point, each offering a unique glimpse into the past.
Across the state line in Utah, lie two additional sets of ruins: Cajon and Square Tower. It is at Square Tower that the monument headquarters are situated. Here, visitors will find a visitor center, which serves as the central hub for exploring Hovenweep National Monument. The center provides invaluable resources, including interpretive programs designed to enrich the visitor experience, detailed maps for navigating the monument’s diverse terrain, informative guides to the various ruins, and a convenient campground for those wishing to extend their stay and immerse themselves in the landscape.
The story of Hovenweep National Monument begins long before the construction of the iconic towers and pueblos. Archaeological evidence suggests that nomadic Paleo-Indians inhabited the surrounding area as far back as 14,000 years ago. These early inhabitants were hunter-gatherers, roaming the landscape in search of sustenance and game. For centuries, they traversed the region, leaving behind traces of their presence that provide crucial insights into the earliest chapters of human history in the American Southwest.
Around 900 A.D., a significant shift occurred in the lifestyle of the inhabitants. The nomadic peoples began to settle more permanently, transitioning to an agricultural way of life. Archaeologists believe that this transition was facilitated by favorable environmental conditions. During this period, the mesa tops were characterized by more moderate temperatures and higher levels of rainfall than are typical today, making them ideal for cultivation.
Concurrently, the ancestral Puebloans, also known as the Anasazi, began migrating to the Hovenweep region from the Four Corners area. These skilled builders brought with them advanced construction techniques and a sophisticated understanding of architecture. Between 1200 and 1300 A.D., they began constructing the first pueblos and distinctive masonry towers that define the Hovenweep landscape. As the population increased, the Ancient Puebloans began building larger fortress-like towers at the heads of box canyons.
The Ancient Puebloans of Hovenweep were adept at dry farming, a method of agriculture that relies on capturing and conserving limited rainfall. They cultivated domesticated crops such as maize (corn), beans, and squash in carefully terraced fields. To further maximize water resources, they constructed catch basins to collect rainwater and built check dams to prevent soil erosion. They also diverted water to encourage the growth of edible wild plants, including beeweed, ground cherry, sedges, milkweed, cattail, and wolfberry, supplementing their cultivated crops with gathered resources.
The population of the Hovenweep area grew steadily, reaching its peak in the 1200s. At this time, the region was home to an estimated 2,500 people. However, by the end of the thirteenth century, Hovenweep, along with other nearby ancient cities such as Mesa Verde and Kayenta, was entirely abandoned. The reasons for this widespread abandonment remain a subject of intense debate among archaeologists. Several theories have been proposed, including drought, overpopulation, disease, and warfare.
While the definitive cause of the departure remains elusive, it is clear that ancestral Puebloans throughout the region migrated south to the Rio Grande Valley in New Mexico and the Little Colorado River Basin in Arizona. These migrations led to the formation of new communities and the continuation of Puebloan culture. Today, the Pueblo, Zuni, and Hopi people are direct descendants of these ancestral Puebloans, carrying on traditions and preserving the legacy of their forebears.
Today, Hovenweep National Monument, encompassing some 785 acres, offers a unique historic view of dozens of ancient ruins, including square and circular towers, cliff dwellings, kivas, and pueblos. The masonry style and architecture at Hovenweep are skillful, with careful attention given to detail, indicating that the inhabitants of Hovenweep were closely associated with groups living at Mesa Verde and other nearby sites.
The structures at Hovenweep, particularly the numerous towers, have sparked numerous theories about their intended use. While their exact purpose remains uncertain, archaeologists have proposed several possibilities. These include the towers serving as celestial observatories for tracking astronomical events, defensive structures for protecting the community, storage facilities for agricultural surplus, civil buildings for administrative functions, homes for certain residents, or perhaps a combination of all these functions. While most towers are seemingly associated with kivas, their actual function remains a mystery.
The first recorded sighting of the Hovenweep structures by white settlers occurred in 1854, more than thirty years before the discovery of the more famous cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde. The sighting was documented during an expedition of Mormon colonists led by W.D. Huntington. This early encounter marked the beginning of renewed interest in the area’s archaeological significance.
During the years 1917 and 1918, J. Walter Fewkes of the Smithsonian Institute played a crucial role in raising awareness of the importance of Hovenweep. He included detailed descriptions of the ruins in published archaeological survey reports and strongly recommended protecting the structures from further deterioration. His efforts were instrumental in paving the way for the monument’s eventual establishment.
The six major site groups within Hovenweep National Monument are located within a twenty-mile drive of each other along the Utah-Colorado border. These individual units vary considerably in size and complexity. The largest of these is the Square Tower Group, encompassing approximately 400 acres. As previously mentioned, the Square Tower Group is located in Utah and houses the Ranger Station and the Cajon Ruins. The remaining sites, including Holly Ruins, Hackberry Canyon, Cutthroat Castle, and Goodman Point, are all situated in Colorado.
Visitors to Hovenweep National Monument today can enjoy a variety of activities. The monument offers opportunities for short hikes amidst stunning natural scenery, providing a sense of tranquility and connection with the past. The trail system provides access to each of the cultural site units. All units are open to the public, but most are in remote locations and can be challenging to reach. The Square Tower Group is the primary contact facility with a visitor center, campground, and interpretive trail.
More Information:
Hovenweep National Monument
McElmo Route
Cortez, Colorado 81321
970-562-4282