Indian Village in Lawrence, Kansas – Legends of America
Along the sun-baked stretch of US-40 in Lawrence, Kansas, stands a silent sentinel of a bygone era—a colossal concrete teepee. This imposing structure, more than just an architectural curiosity, whispers tales of a once-vibrant roadside attraction known as the "Indian Village." This wasn’t merely a rest stop; it was a carefully crafted oasis designed to captivate the eyes and wallets of passing motorists during the dawn of automobile tourism.
A Vision Takes Shape: The Birth of the Indian Village
The story of the Indian Village is intertwined with the ambition of Frank McDonald, a forward-thinking athletic director at the Haskell Indian Institute in Lawrence. In the roaring twenties, McDonald recognized a golden opportunity at the intersection of a planned east-west highway (later designated U.S. 40) and a road leading north from Lawrence (later U.S. 73W, then U.S. 59). Envisioning the area’s potential, he acquired a strategic ten-acre plot with the intent of establishing Lawrence’s first motel, a bold move that would forever alter the landscape of roadside commerce in the region.
McDonald’s vision extended beyond a simple motel. Inspired by the imagery of the American West, he conceived of a unique theme that would set his establishment apart. In 1929, he pitched an idea to the Sinclair Oil Company to construct a series of transcontinental filling stations adorned with Native American motifs. These stations, strategically located a day’s travel apart near Indian reservations, would be staffed by Native Americans, offering not just fuel but also a cultural experience. Lawrence was slated to be the flagship location for this ambitious chain.
Architectural Marvels and Grand Plans
The centerpiece of McDonald’s Indian Village was a 40-foot high teepee that would house a filling station at its base. This was not just any teepee; it was a carefully designed structure with a concrete exterior, restrooms, a smoking room for men, and even a second-floor apartment to house the filling station operator. McDonald’s innovative design led him to apply for a patent, which was granted in 1930, solidifying his unique vision.
The complex was to include a restaurant, a motor court with 14 teepee cabins, and a hogan to house restrooms and a bathhouse. These architectural features were carefully designed to immerse visitors in a whimsical and romanticized version of Native American culture, which was very popular in the 1930s.
The Great Depression and Scaled-Back Dreams
When the gas station building was built, it was slightly different from its original plans. This centerpiece concrete teepee was bigger than the plans at 50 feet tall and 33 feet in diameter. However, as the nation plunged into the depths of the Great Depression, McDonald was forced to scale back his original plans. The partnership with Sinclair Oil fell through, dealing a significant blow to his dream of a nationwide chain of Native American-themed filling stations. Despite this setback, the filling station opened, albeit under the banner of Conoco gasoline.
A Grand Opening and Initial Success
Despite the challenges, the gas station opened on May 30, 1930, to great fanfare. The publicity leading up to the event promised that Native Americans had designed the main teepee, would staff the filling station in tribal costumes, and would provide tourists with information about their culture and reservations. The grand opening was a spectacle, with barbecued buffalo and "genuine Indian curios" given away to each customer, including beadwork, feathers, and tom-toms made by Indian families of Haskell students.
The opening was a resounding success. McDonald expressed his gratitude in a newspaper advertisement and stated that the business served 10,000 customers in the first ten days. The Indian Village quickly became a popular destination for travelers seeking a unique and memorable roadside experience.
Expansion and Changes
In August 1930, the complex expanded with the opening of a barbeque restaurant and curio shop, housed in a building featuring teepees at each corner. The shop sold various Indian souvenirs, including Indian blankets, beads, and other curios. By the following spring, two or three teepee cabins were available for lodging, and it is believed that as many as six to eight teepees were available at the tourist court at some point.
However, the initial promise of Native American staffing and tribal costumes was short-lived. After the first summer, Native Americans no longer staffed the complex, and the costumes were dropped. This change reflected the evolving nature of the business and perhaps the challenges of maintaining the initial vision.
Influence and Adaptation
The Kansas Indian Village’s success inspired other businesses across the country to adopt "teepee" architecture. As many as 22 other businesses from Massachusetts to California used this design to attract the traveling public. McDonald secured what he claimed to be the first beer distributorship in Kansas in 1933, the same year he resigned from Haskell Institute. In 1935, he added a beer garden and dance hall between the barbecue restaurant and gas station, which opened to the public on August 10, 1933.
Challenges and Resilience
The Indian Village faced numerous challenges, including natural disasters. In June 1935, a flood wiped out three teepee rentals on the property, and in 1938, the restaurant suffered a fire in the back of the building, which took out the southwest and southeast teepee corners. Despite these setbacks, the restaurant was expanded and continued to operate.
McDonald also became an important leader in Douglas County and state Democratic politics. He chaired the Kansas Turnpike Authority, which would bypass the Indian Village and take away traffic from Highway 40.
In 1951, a massive flood inundated Lawrence, leaving the Indian Village underwater again. The waters almost covered the lower half of the large teepee, likely covering the entire restaurant, and once again, the remaining teepee cabins were completely underwater. After the water receded, both the gas station and the restaurant reopened. However, the teepee cabins were never rebuilt, leaving one to wonder if the second flood destroyed them beyond repair.
Later Years and Transformation
Around this time, the Indian Village became more familiarly known as "Teepee Junction." McDonald continued to manage the property until 1958. In 1977, the gas station was still colorfully painted and operated as an Amoco Station, with its iconic Indian sign lit up with neon. The restaurant, painted a drab tan, continued to feature a conical half-tepee above its door, which no longer exists today. At this time, the building had already become an event venue, but its sign advertised "Purveyors of Potables and Edibles."
Later, the gas pumps were removed, and in 1979, the teepee briefly became an art pottery studio. Recently retired University of Kansas ceramics professor Bill Bracker and his wife Anne rented the space from the McDonald family to construct a powerful kiln and open a storefront to sell their pottery.
By 1985, the art pottery business had outgrown the building and moved to a nearby warehouse. However, Barbara McDonald continued using the building as a private pottery studio for several more years.
Restoration and Present Day
In 2008, the buildings were restored and repainted with Native American imagery. Two lines were painted on the teepee to mark the floodwaters of 1935 and 1951.
Today, the large Teepee appears to serve as a private residence. The old restaurant building to the east continues to serve as an event space that is a popular spot for fraternity and sorority parties.
The site is a couple hundred yards east of U.S. Highway 59, on the south side of U.S. Highway 40.
A Lasting Legacy
The Indian Village in Lawrence, Kansas, stands as a testament to the entrepreneurial spirit of Frank McDonald and the allure of roadside attractions in the early days of automobile travel. While the original vision of a Native American-themed oasis may have faded over time, the iconic teepee remains a symbol of a unique chapter in Kansas history. It evokes a sense of nostalgia for a time when travel was an adventure and roadside attractions were carefully crafted to capture the imagination of passing motorists. The Indian Village in Lawrence is a monument to a bygone era, a reminder of a time when the open road was a pathway to dreams and endless possibilities.