Jay Em, Wyoming – Barely Holding On

Nestled in the vast expanse of Wyoming, a state synonymous with wide-open spaces and a rugged pioneering spirit, lies Jay Em, a town that whispers tales of the Old West. Located in Goshen County, just 23 miles south of Lusk along Highway 85, Jay Em stands as a testament to the enduring, yet fragile, nature of small-town life in the American West. More than just a geographical point on a map, it’s a living, breathing relic of a bygone era, a place where history is etched into the very fabric of its weathered buildings and sun-baked earth. Its story is one of ambition, resilience, and the slow, inevitable march of time, a narrative that continues to unfold even as the town teeters on the brink of fading into obscurity.

The origins of Jay Em are deeply entwined with the legendary Texas Trail, a vital artery of the cattle industry that once pulsed with life, driving massive herds of longhorns northward to market. The location of the future townsite was strategically chosen along a watering hole on this trail, providing a crucial respite for both cattle and cowboys traversing the arid landscape. This access to water made the area particularly attractive to early settlers, laying the groundwork for the community that would eventually emerge.

The land surrounding Jay Em was originally claimed by James Moore, a figure whose life embodies the spirit of the frontier. A former Pony Express rider, Moore traded the thrill of delivering mail at breakneck speed for the challenges and rewards of ranching. In the 1860s, he established the "J Rolling M" ranch, which quickly grew to become the second-largest cattle ranch in the Wyoming Territory by 1869. The ranch’s brand, a distinctive "J Rolling M," became a familiar sight throughout the region, and a small stream running through his property was christened Jay Em Creek, forever linking Moore’s legacy to the land. Though Moore’s life was cut short in 1873, his brand lived on, a lasting reminder of his contribution to the development of the area.

The establishment of a post office in the area marked a significant step towards the formal recognition of a community. On February 13, 1899, a post office was established on Jay Em Creek, a short distance from where the town would eventually be built. This post office, named Hargraves after its first postmaster, William "Uncle Jack" Hargraves, served the scattered ranchers and settlers of the region. Uncle Jack, however, was known for his independent spirit and strong opinions. A clash with a U.S. Postal Inspector led to Hargraves’ abrupt resignation and the closure of the post office, leaving residents without postal service closer than Rawhide Buttes Station or Fort Laramie for a decade. This incident highlights the challenges and eccentricities that often characterized life on the frontier, where individual personalities could have a profound impact on the community.

The story of Jay Em took a new turn in 1905 when Silas Harris and his three sons, Art, Lake, and Frank, arrived from Wisconsin and took over the Jay Em Cattle Company. Recognizing the need for a local post office, Silas Harris petitioned Washington, D.C., to re-establish postal services in the area. The government agreed, but with a condition: the Harris family would have to transport the mail from Rawhide Buttes Station to the Jay Em Ranch every other day for a period of 90 days. Lake Harris, demonstrating the family’s commitment to the community, undertook this arduous 20-mile round trip for the required three months.

With approval granted, the post office was set up in a bunkhouse on the ranch. On February 10, 1909, Elizabeth Thornton, a friend of the Harris family, was appointed postmistress. The Harris family also established a small general store on the ranch, known as the "Silas Harris Company Store." This store became more than just a place to purchase goods; it served as a vital hub for the community. It sold general merchandise to area farmers and ranchers, provided basic banking services, bought farm produce, and became a popular gathering place for homesteaders and cowboys alike. The Silas Harris Company Store embodied the spirit of self-sufficiency and community support that was essential for survival on the frontier.

In 1912, Lake C. Harris, then a young man of 21, filed for land under the Homestead Act on an empty stretch of prairie along Rawhide Creek. He built his own house and operated a feed store in the ranch bunkhouse, which soon evolved into a general store. When he was appointed postmaster in 1914, he moved the post office to his store, solidifying its role as a central point in the community.

Harris’s vision extended beyond simply establishing a homestead and a store. He immediately began laying the groundwork for a town to support the surrounding ranchers and farmers. He named the new townsite Jay Em, paying homage to Jim Moore’s J M Ranch, thus ensuring that the legacy of the early pioneer would not be forgotten. The establishment of Jay Em marked a new chapter in the history of the region, transforming it from a collection of scattered ranches into a more cohesive and organized community.

From 1917 to 1921, the town boasted its own weekly newspaper, the Jay Em Sentinel, and Fort Laramie News, providing residents with local news and information. The Harris general store was relocated from the ranch to the new townsite in 1918, further solidifying Jay Em‘s position as a commercial center. Other businesses soon followed, including a lumber yard and a blacksmith shop, catering to the needs of the growing community.

The Farmer’s State Bank opened its doors in 1920, providing essential financial services to the area. Shoults Garage, established in 1925, offered automotive repairs and maintenance. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, Jay Em flourished as a regional center for commerce in northern Goshen County. However, the rise of the automobile gradually diminished Jay Em‘s importance. As cars became more accessible, residents could easily travel to larger towns like Lusk, Lingle, and Torrington for goods and services, leading to a decline in local businesses.

Lake Harris was re-appointed postmaster in 1931, a position he held until his retirement in 1959, demonstrating his unwavering commitment to the town. In 1935, he established the Jay Em Stone Company, utilizing stone quarried from the Rawhide Buttes to create tombstones and building products. The Farmer’s State Bank was sold in 1945, and Shoults Garage closed the same year. However, the garage reopened as "Wolfes Repair" in 1946, providing automotive services until 1960. The general store, a vital lifeline for the community, remained open until the late 1970s.

Lake Harris passed away in 1983 at the age of 96. Around the same time, many of the remaining residents began to move to more modern accommodations located on the outskirts of town, leaving the historic center largely abandoned. Never formally incorporated, Jay Em lacked paved streets, sidewalks, curbs, gutters, and a municipal organization or community center. At its peak, the town had a population of over 200 residents.

Despite its decline, the legacy of Jay Em has been preserved through its designation as a historic district. In 1984, the Jay Em Historic District was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This recognition acknowledges the town’s historical significance and helps to protect its architectural heritage.

The historic district is characterized by a compact commercial center, with all buildings located within a block of each other. The buildings, constructed from locally sourced materials, exhibit a consistent architectural style. They are primarily wood frame structures with ship-lap siding, some with concrete walls and foundations. The buildings feature simple, functional doors, windows, and gabled roofs, and are generally small, one or two stories in height, designed to meet the specific needs of the community.

Scattered around the fringes of the historic district are a few modern structures, housing the few remaining residents. The district, largely unchanged since the 1910s and 1920s, remains in the hands of Lake Harris’s heirs, a testament to the family’s enduring connection to the town.

The buildings within the historic district offer a glimpse into Jay Em‘s past:

• Lumber Yard: A unique commercial structure with a two-and-a-half-story false front, an arched connecting wall, and a gabled warehouse, creating a courtyard with shed-type outbuildings. Originally known as the Jay Em Store and later the General Store, it once housed a grocery, hardware store, drugstore, livestock feed, and lumberyard.

• Stone Company: A two-story gabled brick structure with two large shed roof wings. The concrete wings may have served as living quarters and storage. Over the years, it was known as Jay Em Onyx & Gem Co., Wy. Marble & Stone Inc., and Jay Em Stone Shop, producing headstones, fireplace mantels, tabletops, and various decorative items.

• Bank: A one-story wood frame building with a concrete foundation and flat roof. Oversized windows flank the front door. A small frame garage with a gabled tin roof is located in the back. The Farmers State Bank operated here from 1920 until it was sold in 1945. The post office was once located in the front corner of the bank building.

• House: A simple one-story frame house on a concrete block foundation.

• Restaurant-Feed Store-Post Office-General Store: A multi-purpose building consisting of two 2 ½ story gambrel-roofed frame buildings connected by a single-story flat-roofed link. The left side, built in 1935, replaced the original grocery store. The hall above was used for Sunday school, church meetings, and apartments. The right side housed J.M. Hardware, a soda fountain, and gas pumps. Town meetings and socials were held in the hall above the store. A cream station located between the grocery and hardware store once shipped out more cream than any other station in Wyoming.

• Repair Garage: A one-story wood-frame building with an overhanging front gable, creating a sheltered drive-through. Originally Shoults Garage (1928-1945), it later became Wolfes Repair (1946-1960). A blacksmith shop was located in the rear.

• Gas Station: A small one-story gabled wood frame structure with an extended gable end creating a drive-through carport.

• Lake Harris House: An irregularly massed one and two-story wood-frame house with brick chimneys and porches, built over the original dugout.

Today, Jay Em is home to approximately 15 people. A nondenominational church and a post office remain open, providing essential services to the small community. While Jay Em may be "barely holding on," its rich history and enduring spirit serve as a reminder of the challenges and triumphs of the American West. The town stands as a poignant example of the ebb and flow of fortune in rural America, a place where the echoes of the past continue to resonate in the present.