Kenton, Oklahoma & No Man’s Land
Nestled within the embrace of the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway, in the westernmost reach of the Oklahoma Panhandle, lies the unassuming village of Kenton. A testament to resilience and a whisper of bygone eras, Kenton’s roots extend deep into the late 19th century, a time when the American West was a canvas of untamed landscapes and burgeoning settlements.
The story of this region, however, predates the establishment of any formal towns. Before homesteaders and merchants arrived, the land served as a vast hunting ground for nomadic Indigenous tribes, their lives interwoven with the rhythms of the plains. As empires rose and fell, the territory transitioned from Spanish to Mexican control before finally becoming part of the United States. Yet, it remained distinct, an unincorporated pocket outside the boundaries of both Oklahoma and the designated Indian Territory. This unique status gave rise to its enduring moniker: “No Man’s Land.”
The Cimarron Cutoff of the Santa Fe Trail, a vital artery of commerce and westward expansion, sliced through the heart of the Panhandle after its establishment in 1826. This trail brought increased traffic, transforming the landscape from a remote frontier to a thoroughfare for pioneers, traders, and dreamers. The allure of gold in California, discovered in 1849, further amplified the flow of travelers, forever altering the character of No Man’s Land.
Following the surge of westward migration, cattlemen recognized the potential of the open range, moving their herds into the region that had been declared public domain. The absence of formal law enforcement, a consequence of its jurisdictional ambiguity, attracted a more dubious element. Outlaws, seeking refuge from the reach of the law, saw No Man’s Land as an ideal sanctuary. Among these figures was the notorious “Captain” William Coe, who arrived around 1864.
Coe, a cunning and ruthless character, strategically positioned himself and his gang on a high ridge, a natural fortress jutting southwest from a prominent mesa near the future site of Kenton, Oklahoma. Here, he erected a formidable headquarters, a “fortress” designed to protect his illicit operations. The structure, built with rock walls three feet thick, featured portholes for defense rather than windows, underscoring its primary purpose as a bastion against potential adversaries. Inside, the fortress boasted a fully stocked bar, living quarters for Coe’s men, numbering between 30 and 50, and the presence of “soiled doves” to cater to their desires. This den of iniquity quickly became known as “Robber’s Roost.”
For several years, Coe and his gang prospered by raiding ranches and military installations, their reach extending from Fort Union and Taos in New Mexico to the south and west, and as far north as Denver, Colorado. Freight caravans traversing the Santa Fe Trail were also frequent targets, along with the vulnerable ranches scattered across the area. The stolen livestock was concealed in a secluded canyon, located about five miles northwest of the hideout. Within this hidden canyon, the rustlers constructed a fully equipped blacksmith shop, containing all the tools necessary to maintain the stolen herds and alter their brands. With all traces of previous ownership meticulously erased, the desperado cowboys drove the herds into Kansas, where they were sold for profit.
However, the gang’s reign of lawlessness eventually met its demise. In 1867, they made a critical error by raiding a large sheep ranch in Las Vegas, New Mexico. During the raid, they killed two men before driving the herd toward Pueblo, Colorado. This act of violence elevated Coe and his men to the top of the “wanted list,” attracting the attention of the U.S. Army from Fort Lyon, Colorado. The army relentlessly pursued the gang, eventually leading to Coe’s capture and subsequent hanging by a vigilante mob.
In the years following Coe’s downfall, the region began to slowly transform. Until 1890, formal education was virtually non-existent in what would become Cimarron County. Only two small communities, Mineral City and Carrizo, existed, with populations of 98 and 83 respectively. Carrizo, situated about a mile west of present-day Kenton, Oklahoma, was a rough-and-tumble cowboy town, comprised of a general store and three saloons. A post office was established in Carrizo on September 8, 1886, marking a significant step towards establishing a more settled community.
Following the survey and organization of the Panhandle, the owner of the general store in Carrizo decided to relocate his business about one mile eastward, laying out 40 acres for a new town. The saloons, recognizing the potential for increased trade, soon followed suit, leaving Carrizo to fade into obscurity. The new town was initially named Florence, and a post office opened under that name on April 19, 1890. However, the name was short-lived, and on May 12, 1891, it was officially changed to Kenton, Oklahoma. As the only town for miles, Kenton quickly grew, reaching a population of approximately 350 people.
By 1905, Kenton, Oklahoma boasted a thriving commercial district, featuring three general merchandise stores, a drug store, a hardware store, a furniture store, a shoe shop, a barbershop, a blacksmith, a livery, a grain dealer, a seed mill, a laundry, two saloons, and a church. The town’s architecture reflected its growing prosperity, with homes constructed of brick, stone, frame, and adobe.
When Oklahoma achieved statehood in 1907, Cimarron County was formed, and Kenton was initially designated as the temporary county seat. However, a contentious county seat election was held on June 11, 1908, and Boise City emerged as the victor. Amidst allegations of foul play, a Boise City contingent allegedly seized the county seat papers before the mandatory 30-day waiting period had elapsed, sparking controversy and giving rise to a local legend about Boise City’s alleged theft of the courthouse.
During its early years, Kenton was home to two newspapers, the Cimarron Valley News and the Cimarron News, which served as vital sources of information and community engagement. Later, the town supported two car dealerships, a motel, and a bank, reflecting its continued growth and economic diversification.
Agriculture and cattle ranching formed the economic bedrock of Kenton and Cimarron County, and they remain vital to the region’s identity to this day. The early 20th century witnessed a period of unprecedented growth in the Panhandle, with the census recording the highest population figures in the region’s history. The early settlers, who had staked their claims on uncertain lands two decades prior, were finally rewarded for their faith in themselves and the land. The first two decades of the 20th century were generally prosperous for the people of No Man’s Land. In 1925, the Elkhart and Santa Fe Railway completed a line from Elkhart, Kansas, into the county and on into New Mexico in 1932, further enhancing the region’s connectivity.
However, the fortunes of Kenton, Oklahoma, and Cimarron County took a turn for the worse in the 1930s. A devastating combination of drought and fierce winds eroded the already depleted soil, creating catastrophic dust storms that, at times, blotted out the sun. The Oklahoma Panhandle was one of the areas most severely impacted by the Dust Bowl, reverting to its former designation as “No Man’s Land” as farmers and ranchers abandoned their land in search of a better future. Railroad service was discontinued in 1942, and the population continued to decline in the decades that followed.
Today, Kenton is a quiet and sparsely populated community, home to approximately 17 residents, including three children. The children attend school in Clayton, New Mexico, and Boise City, requiring daily round trips of about 100 miles.
Only a few businesses remain in Kenton, including the post office, which operates out of a converted trailer house, a couple of churches, two bed and breakfasts, and a guest ranch in the surrounding area. The old store, known affectionately as “The Merc,” closed its doors several years ago.
Despite its sparse population, the area surrounding Kenton is rich in history and natural beauty. Black Mesa State Park, located about ten miles southeast of Kenton, offers breathtaking vistas and diverse recreational opportunities. The mesa itself, located just north of Kenton, rises approximately 500 feet above the valley floor, reaching an overall elevation of 4,973 feet, making it the highest point in Oklahoma. The Black Mesa plateau is renowned as a geological marvel, and approximately 18 tons of dinosaur bones have been excavated from the region. Birdwatchers, naturalists, and outdoor enthusiasts share the landscape with hunters who come to pursue antelope, quail, and mule deer. Remnants of the Santa Fe Trail can still be observed in various locations throughout the area, serving as tangible reminders of the region’s rich past.