Leaving the Land of Lincoln at Mitchell, Illinois
As the asphalt unwinds and the Illinois landscape begins to subtly shift, travelers along the historic Route 66 find themselves nearing the unassuming town of Mitchell. A transition point, Leaving the Land of Lincoln at Mitchell, Illinois, marks the subtle shift from the agrarian heartland of Southern Illinois to the sprawling suburban embrace of St. Louis, Missouri. Yet, even on the fringes of this major metropolitan area, echoes of the Mother Road’s storied past linger, offering glimpses into a bygone era.
Before the rumble of engines and the allure of roadside attractions, the area that would become Mitchell was a patchwork of farmlands, painstakingly cultivated by German immigrants. These industrious settlers, with calloused hands and a deep connection to the soil, coaxed life from the land, planting fields of wheat, oats, corn, potatoes, and hay. Among these pioneers were James Gillham and Andrew Emmert, names destined to become intertwined with the early narrative of this southwestern Illinois community.
The genesis of Mitchell as a recognizable town can be traced to the arrival of two brothers from Chicago, John Jay and William H. Mitchell, in 1870. Driven by entrepreneurial spirit, they envisioned a thriving cattle ranch, purchasing approximately 4,000 acres of land. However, their initial optimism soon met the harsh reality of the landscape. Much of the terrain proved unsuitable for their cattle and farming aspirations, plagued by swampy conditions that defied easy cultivation. Undeterred, the Mitchell brothers embarked on an ambitious drainage project, transforming the waterlogged land and laying the foundation for their future endeavors.
Concurrently, a transformative event was unfolding in the region: the Chicago & Alton Railroad’s ambitious plan to lay tracks connecting Alton to East St. Louis. Recognizing the potential benefits for his burgeoning community, John Mitchell actively championed the railroad’s construction. His efforts bore fruit with the establishment of Mitchell Station, a vital transportation hub named in his honor. Demonstrating their commitment to the nascent settlement, the brothers further contributed to the town’s development by laying out a formal townsite, generously donating land for the construction of two churches and a one-room schoolhouse. These acts of civic engagement solidified their legacy as foundational figures in the history of Mitchell. Of the churches, one became the Presbyterian Church, the other – the St. Elizabeth Catholic Church. Leaving the Land of Lincoln at Mitchell, Illinois shows the beginning of transformation.
The subsequent decades witnessed a surge in railroad activity, transforming Mitchell into a bustling transportation center. Other railroad companies, including the Wabash, followed suit, laying their own tracks through the area. This influx of rail infrastructure spurred economic growth and attracted a diverse workforce, further shaping the character of the town. In the 1882 history of Madison County, Mitchell was described as a thriving community boasting two general stores, one owned by Hinze & Krueger and the other by Henry Reinemann; a blacksmith shop and a grocery store owned by Henry Quinn; and a meat market owned by A. Rapp. The establishment of a post office marked another milestone in Mitchell’s development, with Robert Krueger assuming the role of postmaster. Another important early settler was a doctor named D. E. Smalley.
As the 20th century dawned, the railroad industry continued to exert a profound influence on Mitchell. Numerous railroad companies established operations in the area, some constructing extensive rail yards to accommodate the growing volume of freight and passenger traffic. The promise of employment in the railroad sector drew workers from Kentucky and Tennessee, contributing to the town’s evolving demographics. Many of these transient workers found temporary lodging in the two boardinghouses that catered to the needs of the community, one managed by a woman named Mrs. Whyer and the other by Mrs. Netheringham. During this period, the town also boasted two grocery stores, a saloon, a blacksmith shop, two hotels, a garage, and several restaurants, reflecting its role as a service center for the railroad industry and the surrounding agricultural region. Leaving the Land of Lincoln at Mitchell, Illinois and entering an era of growth.
The arrival of Route 66 in the early 20th century injected new life into Mitchell, transforming it into a vital stop along the iconic highway. The Mother Road, as it was affectionately known, carved a path directly through the heart of Mitchell, creating a surge in business and tourism. One notable establishment that emerged during this era was the Luna Café, constructed in 1924. Despite its strategic location along Route 66, Mitchell remained a small, unincorporated town. Today, it is home to approximately 1,200 residents. It is strategically positioned at the junction of Interstate 270 and Illinois Route 203, a section of the former U.S. Highway 66.
Beyond the now-gone Bel-Air Drive-In, travelers would have encountered a string of vintage motels lining the left side of the road, ultimately leading to a Route 66 icon: the Luna Café. Legend has it that the "café" served as a front for illicit activities, with a gambling operation discreetly operating in the basement and "ladies of ill-repute" offering their services on the upper floors. According to local folklore, the availability of these "ladies" was signaled by a lit cherry in the martini glass on the neon sign that adorned the building. Like many other establishments along Illinois’ stretch of the Mother Road, the café was rumored to be a frequent haunt of Al Capone and other notorious figures from the criminal underworld. Once, the Luna Café was a "fine dining establishment" and so expensive that most law-abiding citizens couldn’t afford to eat there. The original building sported an enormous neon moon on the top; however, it was taken down and destroyed when the building was re-roofed.
Thanks to the dedicated efforts of the Friends of the Mother Road, the neon moon sign has been meticulously restored to its former glory, becoming a beacon of nostalgia for Route 66 enthusiasts. After nearly nine decades, the Luna Café remains a fixture in Mitchell, evolving into a more down-to-earth establishment that caters to both locals and a new generation of Route 66 travelers. Leaving the Land of Lincoln at Mitchell, Illinois and entering the world of Route 66.
Beyond the Luna Café, the original Route 66 bifurcated, with one alignment leading directly into the heart of St. Louis via Granite City, Madison, and Venice. This route, often referred to as "City 66," navigates through some less-than-desirable and confusing neighborhoods in East St. Louis, an area that is generally considered a rough part of town and best avoided by travelers.
The alternative alignment, known as the Beltline Route, once traversed the Mississippi River via the historic Chain of Rocks Bridge. Constructed in 1929, the bridge was financed through the collection of tolls. In 1967, a new bridge was erected along I-270, rendering the old Chain of Rocks Bridge obsolete and leading to its closure. After languishing in a state of abandonment for over three decades, the bridge was lovingly restored and transformed into the world’s longest pedestrian and bicycle bridge, offering breathtaking views of the Mississippi River and the surrounding landscape. This alignment skirted the northern edge of the city before turning south through Kirkwood, eventually rejoining City 66 approximately 26 miles from the Chain of Rocks Bridge. Today, Route 66 dead-ends at the Chain of Rocks Bridge, requiring travelers to backtrack to the new overpass on I-270 to continue their journey along the Mother Road.
For those seeking to experience the vibrancy of St. Louis, reconnecting with Route 66 can be achieved by exiting in downtown St. Louis and traveling along Tucker Boulevard. This route offers an opportunity to explore some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, including the Gateway Arch, historic Union Station, and the legendary Route 66 institution – Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, as you begin your journey into the suburbs.
As you cross the Mississippi River, you’ll find yourself entering Missouri, the "Show-Me State." Prepare to immerse yourself in the unique attractions and flavors that Missouri has to offer, as the journey along Route 66 continues westward. Leaving the Land of Lincoln at Mitchell, Illinois is a memory that will stay with you for a long time.