Lincoln’s Stomping Grounds – Broadwell, Elkhart, & Williamsville, Illinois
Central Illinois, a landscape of rolling prairies and fertile farmland, holds a unique place in American history. Beyond its agricultural significance, this region served as formative ground for one of the nation’s most iconic figures: Abraham Lincoln. This article explores the historical tapestry woven through three charming Illinois towns – Broadwell, Elkhart, and Williamsville – each offering a glimpse into the era that shaped Lincoln and the enduring legacy of Route 66.
Broadwell: A Route 66 Memory
Just a short drive south of Lincoln, Illinois, lies the quiet village of Broadwell. Established in 1869, this small farming community, home to approximately 150 residents, may seem unassuming at first glance. However, Broadwell once held a prominent position along the legendary Route 66, the "Mother Road" that connected the nation from Chicago to Los Angeles.
For decades, travelers journeying along Route 66 found respite and refreshment in Broadwell at the Pig-Hip Restaurant. This iconic eatery, established by Ernie Edwards and his wife, served up countless barbeque sandwiches and fries from 1937 until the couple’s retirement in 1991. The Pig-Hip’s origin story is as charming as the restaurant itself. Initially, Ernie and Frances Edwards operated a modest three-table cafe called the Harbor Inn. One fateful day, a hungry farmer, upon seeing a steaming pork roast, requested a sandwich "off that pig hip." Ernie, captivated by the phrase, promptly renamed his establishment "The Pig-Hip."
The restaurant’s popularity soared, leading to expansions and the addition of a filling station by Ernie’s brother, Joe, and a motel by his sister, Bonnie Welch, and her husband. Broadwell transformed into a bustling, full-service stop for Route 66 travelers, its economy thriving on the steady stream of motorists.
However, the fortunes of Broadwell, like many towns along Route 66, changed with the advent of the interstate highway system. In the 1960s, the construction of I-55 bypassed Broadwell, diverting traffic and leading to a decline in Route 66’s prominence. The filling station and motel were eventually sold and closed, and other businesses in Broadwell followed suit. By the early 1980s, the Pig-Hip Restaurant stood as the sole commercial enterprise in the town.
Despite the changing times, the Edwards family persevered, continuing to serve travelers until their retirement in 1991. Unable to find a buyer, they transformed the restaurant into a museum, preserving the Pig-Hip’s history and memorabilia for future generations. Sadly, this treasure trove of Route 66 lore was destroyed by a fire on March 5, 2007. Today, a stone marker stands as a poignant reminder of the Pig-Hip Restaurant and its significance in Broadwell’s past. Ernie Edwards passed away in 2012, leaving behind a legacy inextricably linked to the Mother Road. While the Pig-Hip is gone, the spirit of Route 66 and the memories of countless travelers still linger in the air of Broadwell.
Elkhart: A Hill Steeped in History
Venturing further south from Broadwell, along a section of the original Route 66, one encounters Elkhart, Illinois. The approach to the village is marked by Elkhart Hill, a glacial ridge that rises majestically from the surrounding prairie. This natural landmark has served as a vantage point and a beacon for centuries, holding a rich tapestry of Native American history and pioneer settlement.
Long before the arrival of European settlers, the Kickapoo Indians called the area around Elkhart Hill home. The elevated terrain offered a strategic advantage, providing an excellent vantage point for observing the surrounding landscape. It also served as a prominent landmark for westward-bound pioneers traversing the vast prairies of Illinois.
Local legend attributes the name "Elkhart" to a tale involving White Blossom, the daughter of a Kickapoo chief. The story recounts that White Blossom was courted by two warriors, one from her own tribe and another from the Shawnee tribe. During a hunting expedition, the warriors demanded that White Blossom choose between them. To resolve the dispute, White Blossom declared that she would marry the warrior who could pierce the heart of an elk that happened to pass by. The Kickapoo warrior succeeded in hitting the elk’s heart, winning White Blossom’s hand in marriage. The elk heart became their family badge, and the hill, along with the subsequent settlement, was named Elkhart in commemoration of the event.
In 1819, James Latham, his son Richard, and a friend named Ebenezer Briggs arrived in the Elkhart Hill area and built a cabin on its northwest slope. Other settlers soon followed, clearing forested land for farms. These early pioneers, primarily from Kentucky and Tennessee, initially avoided the prairie land, believing it was infertile and too difficult to plow.
James Latham’s contributions to the region extended beyond farming. In 1824, he was appointed as the Indian Agent at Fort Clark, further solidifying his role in the burgeoning community. Sadly, Latham passed away just two years later and was buried on Elkhart Hill at what is now known as Latham-Thompson or Elkhart Cemetery, near the site of his original cabin.
The Latham family’s legacy continued as they transformed their log home into the Kentucky House Tavern between 1835 and 1840. This establishment served as a vital gathering place for travelers and settlers alike. While the original building no longer stands, archaeological digs at the site have yielded significant domestic artifacts, providing valuable insights into the lives of early settlers in the area.
Another pivotal figure in Elkhart’s history was John Dean Gillette, who arrived in 1838. Gillette amassed vast tracts of land and became a prominent livestock breeder. He was renowned for importing Durham cattle from Scotland and developing the Shorthorn cattle breed. His success led to the annual shipment of over 2,000 head of cattle and 1,000 head of hogs to Europe, earning him the moniker "The Cattle King of the World" by the London Gazette. Gillette also collaborated with Abraham Lincoln to lay out the town of Lincoln, Illinois, in 1853. Notably, both men courted Lemira Parke, who ultimately became Gillett’s wife.
The town of Elkhart was officially founded in 1855 by John Shockey, joining a wave of settlements that sprang up along the Alton and Sangamon Railroad. In 1870, the Gillettes constructed their grand home on Elkhart Hill. The house was tragically destroyed by fire just a year later but was rebuilt in 1872. The Gillettes raised eight children on their Elkhart Hill estate, becoming prominent figures in central Illinois and frequently traveling to Europe.
Richard J. Oglesby, a three-term governor of Illinois and a close friend of Abraham Lincoln, married the Gillett’s oldest daughter, Emma. He built their opulent 46-room mansion, known as Oglehurst, across the hill from the Gillett house. Oglehurst boasted impressive features such as a pipe organ in the Great Hall, a fourth-floor schoolroom, and a music room. Unfortunately, the Oglesby mansion also succumbed to fire years later.
The Gillette estate continued to evolve under subsequent generations, with additions including barns, orchards, gardens, a church, and major expansions and improvements to the original farmhouse. Today, the 700-acre estate remains in the hands of the seventh generation of the John Dean Gillette family. While the family still resides in the main house, a three-bedroom guesthouse and a chapel are available for private bookings. Guided tours offer visitors the opportunity to explore undisturbed Native American burial mounds, hillside pastures, walking trails, perennial gardens, and panoramic views from the hilltop. The John Dean Gillett Memorial Chapel, built by Mrs. Gillett in memory of her husband, stands as the only privately owned, self-supporting church in Illinois.
At the base of Elkhart Hill, the "Under the Prairie Museum" showcases an extensive collection of frontier-era and archaeological artifacts, including items unearthed from the site of the Kentucky House Tavern. The museum, located at 109 Oglesby Street, provides a tangible connection to Elkhart’s rich past.
The Elkhart Cemetery, located east of the village along County Road 10, is a historic site with its own unique stories. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of Emma Gillette Oglesby. The cemetery is the final resting place of Captain Adam Borgardus, a renowned marksman who performed in Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, John Dean Gillette, and Governor Richard Oglesby, among many other pioneers of Logan County. The cemetery features distinctive tombstones, a rustic stone chapel, and the Gillette Memorial Bridge.
The Oglesby crypt has been the subject of local ghost stories for years. Legend says that on certain nights, Emma Oglesby’s ghost visits the tomb, only to be chased away by spectral Native Americans across the bridge near the cemetery. Photographs have captured unexplained phenomena, such as mist and apparitions, and a swirling vortex was once photographed over a grave. Visitors have also reported seeing dark apparitions and hearing disembodied voices and footsteps near the fence separating the graveyard from the woods. The history and folklore surrounding Elkhart Hill and the village of Elkhart create a compelling destination for those seeking a glimpse into Illinois’ past.
Williamsville: A Small-Town Gem on Route 66
Continuing down the historic Route 66, approximately seven miles from Elkhart, lies Williamsville, Illinois. Like many towns in the region, Williamsville owes its origins to the railroad. The town was originally platted in 1853 by Abraham V. Flagg and named Benton. That same year, Jacob Flagg built the first house for his father, Abraham, and in 1854, Peter Earnest opened the first store. When residents applied for a post office, they discovered that another town was already named Benton. The village was renamed Williamsville in honor of Colonel John Williams, a local landowner. By the end of 1855, Williamsville boasted a post office, several stores, a doctor, and a one-room schoolhouse.
Today, Williamsville is a primarily agricultural community with a population of around 1,500 residents. However, its vintage stretch of Route 66 features several historic buildings that offer a glimpse into the town’s past. The Williamsville Depot, a former railroad depot located between the Norfolk and Western Railroad track and old Route 66, now serves as a senior center and community gathering place. Adjacent to the depot is the Williamsville Historical Museum, housed in two railroad boxcars, which displays a collection of historical town artifacts.
A block north on Elm Street, visitors can step back in time at Die Cast Auto Sales, a converted 1930s service station. Here, one can enjoy an ice-cold soda while browsing a vast collection of hard-to-find die-cast models, Coca-Cola collectibles, and Route 66 souvenirs.
Another must-see attraction in Williamsville is the Route 66 Dream Car Museum. Owners Phil and Pat Hawley have curated an impressive collection of classic automobiles in a Route 66-themed setting.
Just five miles further down the road, in the neighboring town of Sherman, a long-abandoned stretch of early Route 66 forms the eastern border of Carpenter Park. This curbed concrete section, now listed on the National Register of Historic Places, offers a tangible link to the Mother Road’s vintage past.
From its origins as a railroad town to its role as a stop along Route 66, Williamsville offers a glimpse into small-town life in central Illinois. The town’s historic buildings, museums, and nostalgic attractions provide a charming and memorable experience for visitors. Williamsville continues to preserve its heritage.
The journey through Broadwell, Elkhart, and Williamsville provides a fascinating glimpse into the heart of central Illinois, a region deeply intertwined with the legacy of Abraham Lincoln and the allure of Route 66. Each town offers a unique perspective on the history, culture, and landscape that shaped this pivotal era in American history.