Lucretia “Aunt Lou” Marchbanks – The Greatest Cook in the Black Hills
The rugged, gold-laden landscape of the Black Hills in South Dakota drew fortune seekers and pioneers from all corners of the globe in the late 19th century. Among the hopefuls who flocked to this untamed territory was a remarkable woman named Lucretia Marchbanks, affectionately known as "Aunt Lou." While the names of legendary figures like Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane are often associated with this era, Lucretia "Aunt Lou" Marchbanks carved her own indelible mark, not with a gun or a daring exploit, but with her unparalleled culinary skills and unwavering spirit. Many believe that Lucretia, save for “Aunt Sally” Campbell, who accompanied the Custer Expedition in 1874, was the first black woman to set foot in the Black Hills of South Dakota.
Born into slavery on March 25, 1832, in Putnam County, Tennessee, Lucretia’s early life was defined by hardship and servitude. She was the property of Martin Marchbanks, whose father had established a homestead east of Algood, Tennessee. Intriguingly, Lucretia’s father was of mixed heritage, being half African American and half white, and also the half-brother of Martin Marchbanks. Displaying remarkable resilience and determination, her father managed to purchase his freedom for $700, a sum painstakingly accumulated over years of diligent saving, long before the onset of the Civil War.
Growing up on the Marchbanks plantation as the eldest of eleven children, Lucretia received thorough training in the essential skills of cooking and housekeeping. These skills, born out of necessity, would later become the foundation of her legendary reputation. She was eventually "given" to Marchbanks’ eldest daughter, accompanying her westward even before the tumultuous years of the Civil War. The Emancipation Proclamation, a watershed moment in American history, granted Lucretia her freedom, and she embarked on a journey of self-discovery and independence. She spent time in California, experiencing a new world of opportunities, before eventually returning to her native Tennessee. However, the allure of the West, with its promise of opportunity and adventure, proved too strong to resist, and she soon found herself working in the bustling gold camps of Colorado. The siren call of gold in the Black Hills soon beckoned, drawing her further north.
On June 1, 1876, Lucretia arrived in the bustling, often chaotic, town of Deadwood, South Dakota. She quickly secured a position as the Kitchen Manager at the Grand Central Hotel. Though the hotel itself was not particularly grand, Lucretia’s culinary talents transformed it into a dining destination. Her exceptional cooking quickly made the Grand Central Hotel a popular spot, and she swiftly became known throughout Deadwood Gulch as "Aunt Lou," a testament to her warm demeanor and nurturing spirit. The name "Aunt Lou" became synonymous with delectable meals and a welcoming atmosphere.
But Lucretia "Aunt Lou" Marchbanks was far more than just a friendly face with exceptional cooking skills. She was a woman of strength and resolve, a no-nonsense manager who commanded respect. One notable incident demonstrated her unwavering courage. When a Mexican man entered the restaurant, boasting of having killed an Indian and acting menacingly towards other patrons, Lucretia took swift action. Brandishing a large knife, she confronted the man directly, her unwavering gaze and assertive demeanor forcing him to retreat and leave the establishment. This act solidified her reputation as a protector of her community and a force to be reckoned with.
Two years later, in 1878, Lucretia received a more lucrative offer to work as a cook for the Golden Gate Mine in the nearby town of Lead. Her culinary fame continued to spread throughout the Black Hills, and she was soon recruited to work as a cook and housekeeper for a boarding house owned by Harry Gregg in Sawpit Gulch, catering to the hardworking DeSmet mineworkers. One anecdote illustrates her efficiency and dedication: even if she was delayed by a meeting, she could prepare supper for the miners in a remarkable 25 minutes, while simultaneously packing lunch buckets for those working the night shift. This highlights her organizational skills and commitment to providing for the needs of those around her.
During her time at Gregg’s boarding house, Lucretia earned approximately $40 per month. Following in her father’s footsteps, she was remarkably frugal and saved nearly every penny. This financial discipline would prove instrumental in her future endeavors.
By 1883, Lucretia "Aunt Lou" Marchbanks had firmly established herself as the best cook in the Black Hills. She had carefully saved her earnings and decided to embark on her own entrepreneurial venture, opening her own establishment called the Rustic Hotel in Sawpit Gulch. The hotel’s restaurant, which functioned more like a boarding house, quickly became a popular gathering place, overflowing with hungry customers eager to sample her culinary creations.
Lucretia excelled at creating plum puddings and a myriad of other culinary delights. When one of her boarders inquired about a recipe, her characteristic response was, "Oh, just a handful of this and a handful of that." This playful answer underscores her intuitive understanding of flavors and her ability to create exceptional dishes without rigid adherence to specific measurements.
Her legendary cooking skills became so widely recognized that even the New York Stock Exchange, while discussing an article in the Black Hills Mining News, inquired, "Who is Aunt Lou?" The Black Hills Daily Times responded with a commentary entitled "We’ll Tell You Who She Is," providing a vivid description of her role and impact:
"Aunt Lou is an old and respected colored lady who has had charge of the superintendent’s establishment of the DeSmet mine as a housekeeper, cook, and superintendent of all superintendents who have ever been employed at the mine. Her accomplishments as a culinary artist are beyond all praise. She rules the house where she presides with autocratic power by Divine right, brooking no cavil or presumptuous interference. The superintendent may be a big man in the mines or the mill, but the moment he sets foot within her realm he is but a meek and ordinary mortal."
The article further emphasized her compassionate nature:
"A skillful nurse as well as a fine cook and housekeeper, her services to the victims of mountain fever never have received an infinitesimal part of the praise to which they are richly entitled."
On another occasion, during a festival held in 1880 to raise funds for the Congregational Church, a diamond ring was raffled off as a prize for the most popular woman in the Black Hills. Despite facing competition from many prominent white women, men and women alike overwhelmingly voted for Lucretia "Aunt Lou" Marchbanks, recognizing her profound impact on the community and her exceptional character. She easily won the coveted prize, a testament to the deep affection and respect she had earned.
Having diligently accumulated her hard-earned money, Lucretia decided that she had cooked long enough and sold the Rustic Hotel in 1885 to Mrs. A.M. Porter. She then purchased a ranch located between Sundance and Beulah, Wyoming. There, with the assistance of a hired man named George Baggely, who worked for her for the next 20 years, she actively engaged in raising horses and cattle, embracing a new chapter in her life as a rancher.
Lucretia "Aunt Lou" Marchbanks passed away in 1911, leaving behind a legacy of culinary excellence, resilience, and community spirit. She is buried in the small cemetery in Beulah, Wyoming, her final resting place a testament to her lasting impact on the region. Her story serves as an inspiring reminder that even in the face of adversity, one person can make a significant difference through hard work, dedication, and a genuine commitment to serving others.