McLean, Texas – Where Time Stands Still
Nestled in the southeastern reaches of Gray County, Texas, along the iconic Route 66, lies McLean, a town that offers visitors a unique glimpse into a bygone era. More than just a stop along the historic highway, McLean is a living time capsule, where the echoes of simpler times resonate through its streets and buildings. This charming town invites travelers to step back in history and experience the authentic Americana that once defined the heartland of the United States.
From Cattle Stop to Thriving Town
McLean’s origins were humble, starting as a mere cattle loading site along the Chicago, Rock Island, and Gulf Railway in 1901. The establishment of a water well, a switch, and a section house marked the area as a functional point for the railway. However, it was the vision of Alfred Row, an English rancher, that transformed this railway stop into a burgeoning town. Recognizing the potential of the area, Row generously donated land near the switching station to lay out a townsite.
The town was named in honor of W.P. McLean of the Texas Legislature and Railroad Commission, a nod to his contributions to the region’s development. McLean quickly flourished, and by 1902, it had secured a post office, solidifying its status as a recognized community. The following year, McLean was officially incorporated, signaling its growth and prosperity. The town boasted two banks, two livery stables, two wagon yards, two cafes, a post office, a lumber yard, a newspaper called the McLean News, and a furniture store. A windmill in the middle of Main Street pumped water from a well, providing residents with a vital resource that they hauled home in barrels and buckets.
By 1909, McLean had firmly established itself as a center for area agriculture. The rail station played a crucial role in shipping hundreds of carloads of hogs and watermelons annually, contributing significantly to the local economy. The bustling activity required the expertise of four telegraph operators to manage the constant flow of messages related to the railroad business.
A Tragedy at Sea
The town’s founder, Alfred Rowe, embarked on a journey to his native England in 1912. Tragically, he would never return to McLean. On his return voyage to the United States, Rowe perished aboard the Titanic when the grand ship sank in the Atlantic in the early morning hours of April 15, 1912. Local legend tells of rescuers finding him frozen to death atop an ice floe, clutching his briefcase, with his gold watch still ticking. This poignant tale adds a layer of historical intrigue to the town’s narrative.
Oil Boom and the Mother Road
In 1927, McLean experienced an economic boost from the oil boom, becoming a major shipping point for livestock, gas, and oil. This period marked a significant transformation for the town, diversifying its economy and attracting new residents and businesses.
The same year, Route 66, also known as the "Mother Road," arrived in McLean, further cementing the town’s growth and ensuring its prosperity for decades to come. During the Golden Age of Route 66, McLean thrived as a popular stop for travelers, boasting 16 service stations, six motels, and numerous cafes. The Oklahoma-based Phillips Petroleum Company recognized the strategic location of McLean and built one of their first Texas service stations there in 1929, following their initial venture in Turkey, Texas, in 1928.
By 1940, McLean was a vibrant community with six churches, a newspaper, 59 businesses, and a population of over 1,500. The town had become a vital hub for commerce, agriculture, and travel, reflecting the spirit of the era.
McLean’s Internment Camp
During World War II, an area northeast of McLean was selected to serve as the McLean Permanent Alien Internment Camp, starting in September 1942. This camp, comprising 20 to 30 buildings, housed approximately 3,000 prisoners of war. The first prisoners were German troops captured in North Africa, arriving in early 1943. Later, a second group of Germans captured in their homeland were also detained at the camp.
Despite the restrictive environment, there were several escape attempts from the camp. However, the vast, barren plains of the Texas panhandle offered little opportunity for successful evasion, and all escapees were recaptured, often returning to the camp willingly. The camp remained operational until July 1, 1945, playing a significant role in the war effort and leaving a unique mark on McLean’s history.
Decline and Preservation
As nearby Amarillo grew and Pampa emerged as the county’s industrial center, McLean’s population began to decline. The late 1970s brought further challenges as Interstate 40 began to bypass many of the small towns in the Texas Panhandle. McLean’s business owners fought tirelessly to preserve their town, understanding that a bypass would divert the tourist trade that sustained their service stations, motels, and cafes.
Despite their best efforts, the construction of the bypass commenced in March 1982 and was completed in the summer of 1984. McLean became the last Texas Route 66 town bypassed by Interstate 40, leading to a further reduction in its population. Today, McLean is home to just over 800 citizens, a testament to its resilience and enduring spirit.
A Nostalgic Step Back in Time
McLean’s limited growth has paradoxically contributed to its unique charm. Today, the town offers a nostalgic experience, allowing visitors to step back in time and appreciate the simpler pleasures of a bygone era. As you explore McLean, keep an eye out for the impressive murals adorning the buildings, which capture the essence of the town’s history and culture.
In 2004, the McLean Commercial Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places, recognizing its significance as a preserved example of early 20th-century architecture and town planning. While the town suffered a loss in 2017 with the demolition of the old Avalon Theater on Main Street, McLean remains committed to preserving its heritage. The theater, built in the late 1920s, once seated 450 and served as a community hub for entertainment. After closing in January 1997, the Route 66 Association of Texas restored its art deco facade. However, the building’s dilapidated condition led to its demolition for safety reasons in August 2017.
Headquarters of Texas Route 66 Association
McLean now serves as the headquarters of the Texas Historic Route 66 Association, located in the Devil’s Rope Museum. The association publishes a quarterly Texas Route 66 Newsletter and provides brochures and information at the museum, which is the first Route 66 museum on the route. This organization plays a vital role in preserving and promoting the legacy of Route 66 in Texas.
Visiting McLean
McLean is located 75 miles east of Amarillo, along I-40 and Old Route 66. Visitors can access the town via Exits 141, 142, and 143. From McLean, you can follow the south side frontage road to Alanreed, another charming town along the historic route.
McLean, Texas, stands as a testament to the enduring allure of Route 66 and the rich history of the American heartland. Its preserved buildings, captivating stories, and welcoming atmosphere make it a must-visit destination for those seeking an authentic glimpse into the past.
(C) Kathy Alexander/Legends of America, updated April 2024.
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