Million Dollar Highway, Colorado – Legends of America
Nestled in the southwestern corner of Colorado, draped across the majestic San Juan Mountains, lies a stretch of US Highway 550 that is more famously known as the "Million Dollar Highway." This iconic route connects the historic towns of Durango and Ouray, offering a journey that is as thrilling as it is scenic.
Regularly celebrated as one of the top ten most scenic highways in the United States, the Million Dollar Highway stretches for 70 miles, weaving a tapestry of twists and turns through a landscape that seems to have been sculpted by the gods themselves. This isn’t just a road; it’s an experience, an invitation to witness the raw beauty of the San Juan Mountain Range and the dramatic depths of the Uncompahgre Gorge. Along the way, opportunities abound to explore the Victorian-era mining towns of Durango, Silverton, and Ouray, each a living museum of a bygone era. For those with a penchant for the spectral echoes of history, the ghost towns of Red Mountain City and Ironton beckon, remnants of the once-booming Red Mountain Mining District. The highway also serves as a gateway to adventure, with options to ride a narrow-gauge railroad, hike countless miles of trails, or embark on a jeep tour across some of America’s highest backroads.
However, the Million Dollar Highway is not for the faint of heart. This two-lane marvel is characterized by hairpin turns and exposed sections where the only thing separating you from a sheer drop is your own skill and vigilance. It’s a drive where the driver must remain focused on the road, allowing passengers to soak in the breathtaking views.
This remarkable road is a segment of the larger San Juan Skyway, a 235-mile loop that begins in Durango and meanders westward to Mancos and Cortez. From there, it turns northeast towards Dolores and Telluride, continuing to Ridgeway before circling back to Ouray, where it rejoins the Million Dollar Highway.
A Journey Through Time and Terrain
Leaving Durango, US 550 embarks on a 48-mile journey to Silverton, closely paralleling the historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. The route begins near Trimble Springs, a hot spring resort that has been welcoming visitors since the late 19th century. The highway then traces the course of the Animas River through the verdant Hermosa Valley and into the heart of the San Juan National Forest, passing by the serene Haviland Lake and Electra Lake.
As the road climbs, travelers are treated to views of Engineer Mountain and Twilight Peak before ascending Coal Bank Pass, a lofty summit at 10,660 feet. The journey continues to Molas Pass, which, at an elevation of 10,899 feet, offers a panoramic vista of Molas Lake, the Animas River Gorge, and the imposing Snowdon Peak.
From Molas Pass, the highway descends into Silverton, a town that proudly displays its rich history through its well-preserved buildings and attractions like the Old Hundred Gold Mine and the Mayflower Mill, both offering a glimpse into the region’s mining past.
The final leg of the journey, a 23-mile stretch from Silverton to Ouray, is perhaps the most dramatic. The road ascends through Mineral Creek Valley before tackling Red Mountain Pass at 11,075 feet. Along the way, the ruins of the Longfellow Mine stand as silent witnesses to the area’s mining heritage. At the summit of Red Mountain Pass, several pull-outs offer vantage points from which to view the mining ruins of the Red Mountain District. From there, the road begins a gradual descent of approximately 2,000 feet, hugging the steep canyon walls of the Uncompahgre Gorge. Mining sites dot the landscape, remnants of the once-thriving Red Mountain Mining District. Before reaching Ouray, Lookout Point provides a stunning overview of the town, nestled in the valley below. This section of the highway is characterized by steep grades, hairpin curves, and a distinct lack of guardrails, adding to the thrill of the drive.
Ouray, a picturesque town often referred to as the "Little Switzerland of America," welcomes visitors with its charming main street, devoid of traffic lights, and its natural attractions, including three waterfalls, four hot springs, and the renowned Ouray Ice Park.
The Million Dollar Question: How Did It Get Its Name?
The nickname "Million Dollar Highway" is most often associated with the 12-mile stretch of road that winds from the summit of Red Mountain Pass through the Uncompahgre Gorge south of Ouray.
The origin of the name is shrouded in legend, with several stories vying for the title of truth. One tale suggests that the road was constructed using $1,000,000 worth of gold and silver-filled tailings. Another tells of a traveler who, upon experiencing the harrowing drive, declared that she wouldn’t travel that road again for a million dollars. A third story claims that the land on which the road was built was purchased for a million dollars.
However, the most credible explanation traces the name back to a planning meeting in 1921, when officials were discussing plans to rebuild the highway. As they reviewed the contracts, one attendee remarked that the total cost was close to $1,000,000. From that point on, he began referring to the road as "this million-dollar highway," and the name stuck.
A History Etched in Stone
The story of the Million Dollar Highway is one of ambition, innovation, and perseverance. The first road across the "impassable" cliffs from Ouray to Red Mountain Pass was built in 1880 by the Ouray and San Juan Wagon Road Company to serve the Red Mountain Mining District. However, the company ran out of funds in 1882. Otto Mears, known as the "Pathfinder of the San Juans" for his extensive road-building efforts in the region, stepped in, acquiring a controlling interest in the toll road company. Mears employed a larger and more experienced construction crew, blasting much of the road from solid rock. The crews cleared 8.5 miles at a cost of $40,000 per mile. Mears extended the road along Red Mountain Creek over Red Mountain Pass, down Mineral Creek, and into Silverton.
The road was completed in 1883, operating as a freight and stage line. Mears charged a $5 toll for a team and wagon, $2.50 for a trail wagon, and $1 for saddle animals. Mears also strategically narrowed the road at Bear Creek Falls, about three miles south of Ouray, to prevent travelers from bypassing his toll bridge. Here, his gatehouse doubled as a small store, selling "whiskies and fine cigars."
However, local merchants and miners soon turned against Mears. By 1887, San Juan County and the State took over road maintenance, ending Mears’ dominance of Red Mountain Pass.
Undeterred, Mears focused on connecting the Red Mountain Mining District to Silverton with the Silverton Railroad. The line reached Ironton in November 1888 and was completed to Albany in September 1889. An electric cog railway was planned to connect Ouray with Ironton, but it was never completed due to financial constraints.
The railroad connected the Red Mountain Mining District’s towns to Silverton, allowing the mines to ship ore to smelters in Durango and Pueblo.
In 1910, Dr. L.G. Crosby of Ouray and some companions made the six-mile journey from Ouray to Ironton in a new Model T. This trip made immediate news, and Dr. Crosby and his passengers were hailed as heroes:
"It was a trip that few believed could ever be accomplished. It was one of the most exhilarating, thrilling, unusual, and stirring automobile trips that could be taken or imagined."
When the mines began to decline, the Silverton Railroad cut back service, shortened the line, and was abandoned in 1921. Mears’ toll road continued to operate until the early 1920s, when it was rebuilt and became part of US Highway 550.
In 1924, the Colorado Department of Highways improved Mears’ work and upgraded the road for automobile travel. Several changes were made, but Mears’ 200-foot-long, 17-foot-wide Ouray Tunnel remained the same. Mears’ original course was narrower and closer to the Uncompahgre River than modern US 550. However, above Bear Creek Falls, US 550 still follows Mears’ initial shelf.
The 1930 State Highways map showed US 550 as a patchwork of a graded and surfaced road. Armed with improved snow-clearing machinery, the state opened the road year-round for the first time in 1935.
Many people wonder why some places have no guardrails. Archival photos show that large earthen blocks once served as guardrails in the road’s early days. However, the blocks left snowplow drivers no place to push the 300 inches of snow annually falling on the San Juans. There are some guardrails along the highway today, but it can still be maintained only where the road has enough width.
The Million Dollar Highway is more than just a road; it’s a testament to human ingenuity, a journey through time, and an unforgettable experience.