Mills, New Mexico – A Shell of Memories

In the vast expanse of northeastern New Mexico, nestled within the embrace of the Kiowa National Grassland, lies Mills, New Mexico, a whisper of its former self. Approximately 12 miles north of Roy, along the meandering path of Highway 39, the remnants of this once-thriving small town stand as silent sentinels, guarding memories of a bygone era. Blink, and you might miss it – a scattering of weathered buildings and crumbling foundations, the ghosts of a community that once pulsed with life. Yet, despite its diminished state, Mills, New Mexico, refuses to fade entirely from the landscape, clinging to existence with a tenacious spirit.

Harding County is the location of this community that dates back to 1898. Melvin W. Mills, a man of remarkable ambition and diverse talents, founded the first version of Mills, New Mexico. Drawn to the fertile lands of Mills Canyon, carved by the life-giving Canadian River, Mills established a homestead and cultivated crops. His initial success as a farmer laid the foundation for a multifaceted career that saw him flourish as a rancher, attorney, and eventually, a respected Senator, Judge, and Governor of New Mexico. Melvin W. Mills contributed significantly to the development of this region. He transported fresh produce, including the bounty of his extensive orchard, to the bustling trade hubs of Springer and Wagon Mound, establishing vital supply lines for the growing communities. The very name Mills, New Mexico, is a testament to his influence and legacy. Before the town’s official founding, Melvin Mills had an encounter with the notorious Clay Allison during the Colfax County War.

The narrative of Mills, New Mexico, is intertwined with the expansion of the American railroad. The town experienced a surge in growth with the arrival of the Southern Pacific Railroad, which extended its tracks from Dawson to Tucumcari, establishing a crucial depot in Mills in 1889. This connection to the national rail network transformed Mills into a vital transportation and commercial center. That same year, the town’s infrastructure further solidified with the establishment of a post office, a crucial link to the outside world. Henry Lebert, the owner of the local hotel, played a vital role in the postal service, meeting the trains and transporting the mail to his hotel for distribution. However, the burgeoning prosperity of Mills was soon threatened by a devastating flood in 1904, which swept through the town, leaving destruction and despair in its wake.

Undeterred by the disaster, the resilient residents of Mills, New Mexico, resolved to rebuild. Landowners Cress and Pelphey generously donated 40 acres of land for the creation of a new townsite, providing a fresh start for the community. This act of generosity was complemented by the investment of the Wilson Company, a New York-based firm that recognized the potential of Mills. The company injected capital into the town, constructing essential infrastructure, including a general store, a grain elevator, a bean house, a lumberyard, a hotel, stockyards, and housing for their employees. This infusion of resources and development spurred a new wave of growth and prosperity for Mills.

By 1913, Mills, New Mexico, had blossomed into a thriving community, boasting an impressive array of businesses and services. The town featured five hotels, offering lodging for travelers and visitors; a theatre and dance hall, providing entertainment and social gathering spaces; four doctors and a hospital, ensuring the health and well-being of the residents; a barbershop, offering grooming services; three general stores, supplying essential goods; a bank, facilitating financial transactions; two saloons, providing social hubs for relaxation and camaraderie; three churches, catering to the spiritual needs of the community; a school, educating the town’s children; a boarding house, offering affordable accommodation; and more.

At its zenith, Mills, New Mexico, boasted a population of approximately 3,000 residents, a testament to its economic vitality and social vibrancy. However, the town’s fortunes were inextricably linked to the broader economic and environmental forces that shaped the nation. The hardships of the Great Depression and the ecological devastation of the Dust Bowl, which ravaged the American Midwest, cast a long shadow over Mills. These national crises, coupled with the closure of the railway depot, dealt a crippling blow to the town’s economy, leading to a gradual decline in population and prosperity.

Despite the hardships faced, the spirit of Mills, New Mexico, endured. In 1940, the town’s basketball team, the Mills Bobcats, achieved legendary status by going undefeated throughout the season. However, a moment of overconfidence and poor judgment led to a heartbreaking defeat in the state quarterfinals. The coach, believing his team was invincible, decided to play his second string against Springer, while the first string relaxed at the pool hall. The second-string team fought valiantly but ultimately lost by a single point, dashing the hopes of the town.

The school, a symbol of community and education, closed its doors in the early 1940s. The two-story brick high school building stood as a silent reminder of a bygone era until it was eventually torn down in the early 1980s. Despite the decline in population, the post office remained open, a testament to the enduring presence of the federal government and the continued need for communication with the outside world. In 1944, the post office moved into the old bank building, where it continues to operate today, serving the few remaining residents of Mills and the surrounding area.

Mills Canyon, located near Mills, New Mexico, is steeped in history and folklore. The canyon served as a stage stop along the route from Kansas to Santa Fe, witnessing countless journeys and tales of adventure. Stories of gambling dens and women held against their will persist to this day, adding to the canyon’s mystique. Local legends also recount tales of Native American raids on wagon trains, with the canyon providing a strategic escape route for the raiders. Today, Mills Canyon Recreation Area offers opportunities for fishing, hunting, and hiking along the scenic Canadian River, attracting visitors who seek to connect with nature and explore the region’s rich history.

Today, Mills, New Mexico, stands as a poignant reminder of the cyclical nature of boom and bust, a testament to the resilience of the human spirit in the face of adversity. The remnants of the town serve as a living museum, inviting visitors to reflect on the past and contemplate the future of rural communities in the American West. While the glory days of Mills may be long gone, the echoes of its vibrant past continue to resonate through the landscape, whispering stories of ambition, hardship, and enduring hope.