Muir Woods National Monument, California – Legends of America
Nestled on the slopes of Mount Tamalpais, on the Marin Peninsula just north of the bustling metropolis of San Francisco, California, lies a sanctuary of ancient giants: Muir Woods National Monument. This verdant haven, an integral part of the expansive Golden Gate National Recreation Area, safeguards 554 acres of old-growth redwood forest. It stands as a testament to a bygone era, one of the few remaining stands of these majestic trees in the greater San Francisco Bay Area.
In 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt, recognizing its unparalleled natural value, designated Muir Woods as the nation’s tenth National Monument. This act of preservation marked a significant milestone, establishing it as the first federal or state park in the region, a beacon of conservation in a rapidly developing landscape.
Echoes of the Past: The Land Before
Before the arrival of European settlers in the early 19th century, Muir Woods and the encompassing Redwood Canyon were the ancestral homeland of the Coast Miwok people. While archaeological evidence of extensive habitation within Redwood Canyon is scarce, it is believed that the Coast Miwok utilized the area for hunting, fishing, and gathering. They held the redwood forest in reverence, considering it an integral part of their home and their way of life.
Tragically, the early 19th century brought immense hardship to the Coast Miwok. With the establishment of Spanish missions in present-day San Rafael around 1817, European diseases swept through the population, decimating their numbers. By 1840, it is estimated that their population had been reduced by a staggering 90%, a poignant reminder of the devastating impact of colonization on indigenous communities.
From Rancho to Refuge: A Shifting Landscape
In 1836, the Mexican government granted a vast expanse of the Marin Peninsula, including Redwood Canyon, to William Antonio Richardson. He christened the land "Rancho Sausalito," envisioning a pastoral landscape. Richardson primarily maintained the ranch as open grazing land, although the forested areas were subject to logging, particularly during the fervor of the California Gold Rush of 1849, when the demand for timber skyrocketed.
In 1856, Richardson sold the majority of Rancho Sausalito to Samuel R. Throckmorton, who, in turn, divided the land into parcels and rented them out to farmers. However, Throckmorton retained a substantial, undivided area encompassing Redwood Canyon, extending north towards the higher reaches of Mount Tamalpais. This area became his private hunting preserve, a sanctuary amidst the changing landscape.
While much of the remaining redwood groves on the Marin Peninsula fell victim to logging during Throckmorton’s ownership of Rancho Sausalito, he made a conscious decision to preserve the forest within Redwood Canyon. This act of stewardship, whether intentional or not, played a pivotal role in safeguarding the ancient giants that would later become the heart of Muir Woods National Monument.
In 1883, Throckmorton’s passing left his estate, burdened by debt and encompassing 14,000 acres of the ranch, to his daughter, Susanna Throckmorton.
The Dawn of Preservation: A Vision Takes Root
Faced with the weight of her father’s debts, Susannah Throckmorton made the difficult decision to sell Rancho Sausalito in 1889 to the Tamalpais Land & Water Company. The company harbored ambitious plans to develop the ranchlands along the east side of Marin County into the community of Mill Valley, a testament to the growing population and urbanization of the region. On the west side, the company continued to lease out the subdivided ranchlands.
However, the Tamalpais Land & Water Company recognized the unique value of Samuel Throckmorton’s hunting preserve, including Redwood Canyon. They retained it as undivided land and granted its use to the Tamalpais Sportsman’s Association. With the dedication of one of their prominent members, William Kent, the club took on the responsibility of caring for the redwood forest.
As the turn of the century approached, visitation to the area increased, fueled by the development efforts of the Tamalpais Land & Water Company and the establishment of rail access to the summit of Mount Tamalpais. This influx of visitors brought both opportunities and challenges, highlighting the need for a more structured approach to preservation.
By the turn of the century, development pressures intensified, including a proposal to dam Redwood Creek, a project that would have irrevocably altered the landscape and destroyed a portion of the redwood forest. Simultaneously, local conservation and hiking groups began advocating for the public acquisition of Mount Tamalpais, recognizing its immense natural and recreational value.
These mounting pressures, coupled with his own deep-seated conservation sensibilities, spurred William Kent to acquire 612 acres of Redwood Canyon in 1905. His goal was clear: to safeguard its ancient redwood forest and improve its accessibility to the public, ensuring that future generations could experience its awe-inspiring beauty.
In collaboration with Mill Valley and the Mt. Tamalpais Scenic Railway, Kent transformed Redwood Canyon into a public park. He introduced rail access, improved road access, and visitor amenities such as footpaths, bridges, and benches, all meticulously designed in a rustic style that was characteristic of parks and forested landscapes during that era. An inn, strategically located at the terminus of the mountain railway, served as the main entrance to the park, offering visitors a welcoming gateway to the natural wonders within.
A Monumental Gift: Securing the Future
In the fall of 1907, a year after the devastating San Francisco earthquake had heightened the demand for water supply and timber, a private water company, the North Coast Water Company, initiated condemnation proceedings to seize 47 acres of William Kent’s Redwood Canyon tract. Their intention was to construct a reservoir, a project that would have flooded the upper portion of the canyon floor, necessitating the logging of numerous giant redwoods, dividing the park into two separate sections, and destroying the improvements meticulously crafted by Kent and the mountain railway.
To thwart the condemnation proceedings and ensure the long-term preservation of the redwood forest, Kent made a profound and selfless decision. On December 26, 1907, he gifted 298 acres of his 612-acre Redwood Canyon tract to the federal government. This gift, strategically excluding the terminus of the mountain railway, was a masterstroke of conservation.
On January 9, 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt, recognizing the immense value of Kent’s gift, declared the 298-acre tract a National Monument. In a gesture of profound respect and admiration, Kent chose to name the monument Muir Woods National Monument, after the renowned wilderness preservationist John Muir, who resided in Martinez, across the San Pablo Bay from Marin County.
Growth and Evolution: A Legacy Continues
Despite the monument designation, the North Coast Water Company persisted with its legal suit for another year, but ultimately abandoned its efforts. Muir Woods National Monument was initially managed through the General Land Office within the Department of the Interior until 1917. During this period, some minor improvements were made to Muir Woods, but its management was primarily overseen by the mountain railway and William Kent.
In 1917, the management of Muir Woods was transferred to the National Park Service, an agency created by Congress the previous year to enhance the management of federal parks, which were then administered by a diverse array of agencies. For the subsequent decade, the National Park Service assumed the leading role in managing Muir Woods, although the mountain railway and William Kent continued to play vital roles.
The administration was carried out through Yosemite National Park and regional park offices in San Francisco, demonstrating the interconnectedness of the national park system. In 1921, William Kent further solidified his commitment to preservation by donating an additional 150 acres to expand the monument, ensuring the protection of an even larger area of redwood forest.
Improvements during this era included the addition of signs, an entrance gate, new footbridges, a residence for the custodian, and comfort stations, all meticulously designed according to a distinctive rustic style developed by the National Park Service and implemented at other forested parks in the region. A parking area was also established at the south entrance on lands owned by William Kent, with access provided by the Muir Woods Toll Road, constructed by Kent, and the mountain railway in 1925.
Modern Era
In 1928, William Kent passed away, coinciding with the financial decline of the mountain railway due to increased competition from automobiles. A fire in 1929 destroyed the branch line to Muir Woods and the Tavern of Tamalpais at the summit of the mountain, marking the end of an era. The following year, the railway ceased operations, leaving a void in the transportation landscape.
With the closure of the railway, the primary entrance to Muir Woods shifted almost entirely to the automobile entrance at the south end of the monument. Kent’s death and the demise of the mountain railway granted the National Park Service full authority for the administration of Muir Woods, ushering in a new chapter in its history.
Much of the land bordering Muir Woods that had been owned by William Kent became part of Mount Tamalpais State Park, established in 1930, further solidifying the commitment to preserving the natural landscape. Beginning in 1933 and continuing through 1941, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) undertook extensive improvement work in Muir Woods and the state park, operating from a camp located on the railway terminus.
These improvements, designed to accommodate the increasing number of visitors, included massive log footbridges over Redwood Creek, a stone-faced arch bridge over Fern Creek, a log entrance gate, improved trails, a redesigned parking area at the south entrance on state parkland, new signs and picnic facilities, and several new buildings, all designed in a romantic rustic style.
The completion of the Golden Gate Bridge in 1937 led to an even greater surge in visitation, transforming Muir Woods into a must-see destination for tourists from around the world. In 1972, Muir Woods was incorporated into the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.
Visiting Today
The monument is open to visitors every day of the year from 8:00 a.m. to sunset. To protect the area, the National Park Service has implemented a parking and shuttle reservation system. Reservations can be made through GoMuirWoods.com or by calling 1-800-410-2419.
Camping and lodging are not available within the park, and pets are not permitted. The monument is located 11 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge.