Ouray, Colorado – Switzerland of America – Legends of America
Nestled high in the heart of the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, lies Ouray, a captivating historic mining town that has earned the moniker "Switzerland of America." Positioned along the famed Million Dollar Highway, this picturesque community sits at a breathtaking elevation of 7,792 feet, cradled within a natural rock amphitheater that exudes an unparalleled sense of grandeur and tranquility.
A Land Steeped in Native American Heritage
Long before the arrival of European settlers and the allure of precious metals, the area surrounding Ouray was the ancestral home of the Tabeguache Ute Indians. For centuries, these nomadic people traversed the verdant valley during the warmer months, skillfully hunting the abundant wildlife and immersing themselves in the soothing embrace of the area’s natural hot springs, which they revered as "sacred miracle waters." The Ute referred to this cherished location as "Uncompahgre," a word that aptly translates to "hot water springs." In fact, the esteemed Chief Ouray, a prominent figure in Ute history, once resided in a humble cabin nestled at the foothills of the very amphitheater that defines the town’s unique character.
As white settlers began to encroach upon Ute territory in the 1860s, Chief Ouray initially adopted a stance of patience and diplomacy, earning him the reputation as "The White Man’s Friend." However, the discovery of gold in Colorado irrevocably altered the dynamic, as throngs of miners descended upon the region, driven by the insatiable lure of wealth. Despite numerous treaties being forged and subsequently broken, the Ute were ultimately displaced from their ancestral lands, paving the way for a massive influx of prospectors and fortune-seekers.
The Birth of a Mining Town
The genesis of Ouray can be traced back to 1875, when intrepid prospectors from the neighboring town of Silverton ventured into the area via Bear Creek and the Uncompahgre River, tirelessly searching for valuable ore deposits. The first recorded claims were staked by A.W. "Gus" Begole and John Eckles in July of that year. Upon their return to Silverton to replenish supplies, word of their discovery spread like wildfire, prompting a wave of eager individuals to follow them back north, leading to the establishment of a rudimentary mining camp.
In the vicinity of this burgeoning settlement, prospectors laid claim to the Cedar, Clipper, Trout, and Fisherman lodes, further fueling the region’s mining frenzy. Another promising site, known as Mineral Farm, was located approximately 1.5 miles south of the mining camp and quickly emerged as one of the most lucrative early operations in the area.
On August 28, 1875, a formal notice was filed for the townsite of Uncompahgre, marking a significant step towards establishing a permanent community. Log cabins began to dot the landscape, and in October, a post office was established, solidifying the town’s connection to the outside world. Otto Mears, a visionary entrepreneur, was awarded the contract to deliver mail to the various mining camps scattered throughout the region. During the harsh winter months, mail carriers often relied on dog sleds and skis to navigate the treacherous terrain. On one occasion, when severe snow conditions rendered passage impossible, Mears himself, unwilling to face a breach of contract, personally delivered the mail on snowshoes, demonstrating his unwavering commitment. This mail contract likely motivated Mears to construct the Ouray-Lake Fork Toll Road, which would later become renowned as the "Mears Toll Road."
From Mining Camp to Incorporated Town
By the spring of 1876, an increasing number of miners flocked to the area, leading to the formal surveying and incorporation of the town in October 1876. Now christened Ouray, the town rapidly grew to boast a population of 400 residents and 214 buildings, primarily constructed from sturdy logs. These structures included a school catering to 43 students, four general stores, a sawmill, an ore sampling works, two hotels, and a post office, providing essential services to the burgeoning community.
As time went on, even more valuable discoveries were made in the nearby Imogene and Yankee Boy basins, solidifying Ouray’s role as the major supply center for these newly established mining operations.
In January 1877, Ouray County was carved out of San Juan County, and Ouray was designated as the county seat, further enhancing its prominence. At that time, the town was home to approximately 1,000 residents, a testament to its rapid growth and burgeoning prosperity.
By 1880, significant ore deposits had been unearthed throughout the region, with the highest concentrations of high-quality ore found in the Ironton area, located 10 miles south of Ouray, as well as the Sneffels District and Imogene Basin workings to the west and southwest. Ouray became the primary shipping point and supply center for the entire region, a role it would maintain for over 90 years, cementing its status as a vital hub for the mining industry.
Growth and Development
The Red Mountain Mining District experienced a surge in activity in 1882, prompting Otto Mears to construct a toll road connecting Ouray to the burgeoning district. By this time, Ouray was evolving into a more sophisticated urban center, with brick buildings gradually replacing the earlier wooden structures, adding an air of permanence and refinement to the town’s architectural landscape.
By 1885, Ouray’s population had swelled to 1,800 residents, supported by two weekly newspapers – the Ouray Times and the Solid Muldoon – an ore sampling works, a 10-stamp mill, a bank, three churches, several schools, and a multitude of restaurants, hotels, saloons, and fraternal organizations, reflecting the town’s thriving social and economic life.
In the same year, Otto Mears, who had already established an extensive network of toll roads throughout southwestern Colorado, completed his "greatest road" – the predecessor to the iconic "Million Dollar Highway" connecting Silverton and Ouray. This challenging toll road followed the rugged Uncompahgre River gorge, traversed Red Mountain, and clung to a narrow ledge suspended hundreds of feet above the canyon floor, showcasing Mears’s engineering prowess and determination.
A Destination for Recreation and Relaxation
In addition to its thriving mining industry, Ouray began to attract visitors drawn to its numerous hot springs and breathtaking scenery. In response to this growing demand, the three-story Beaumont Hotel was constructed in 1886, destined to become one of the most luxurious hotels in the West. The lavishly furnished hotel, complete with an elegant dining room, opened its doors in July 1887, catering to the discerning tastes of wealthy travelers. However, declining tourism eventually led to the hotel’s closure in 1964, and it remained vacant for over three decades. In 1998, the Beaumont Hotel was meticulously restored to its original grandeur and reopened to guests, earning a place on the National Register of Historic Places.
In August 1887, the Miner’s Hospital opened its doors, providing much-needed medical care to the town’s residents. Frank Carney built it on land donated by the Catholic Church with funds contributed by Ouray citizens. It remained open until 1964 and became the Ouray County Historical Society and Museum’s home in 1971.
The Denver & Rio Grande Railway arrived in Ouray on December 21, 1887, revolutionizing the transportation of goods and people. The railroad enabled the profitable exploitation of low-grade ore, which had previously been deemed uneconomical due to exorbitant shipping costs. The railroad soon constructed a depot, an engine house, a turntable, and other essential infrastructure to support its operations. Today, however, all of the railroad structures have disappeared, leaving behind only memories of this once-vital transportation link.
The first narrow gauge railroad excursions arrived in Ouray in August 1888, promoted as "Around the Circle" tours. The original route commenced in Pueblo and proceeded to Salida, then over Marshall Pass to Gunnison and Montrose, before finally reaching Ouray. From Ouray, travelers would board stagecoaches to Chattanooga, where they would connect with the Silverton Railroad to Silverton and Durango, before returning to Pueblo via La Veta Pass, offering a comprehensive tour of the region’s scenic wonders.
In 1888, Wright’s Opera House at 472 Main Street and the Ouray County Courthouse at 541 Fourth Street were constructed. The Ouray County Courthouse remains much the same as when constructed.
By 1890, Ouray reached its peak population of 2,534 residents, a testament to the town’s thriving economy and vibrant community. At the height of the mining boom, the Ouray area boasted more than 30 active mines, contributing significantly to the region’s prosperity.
In 1891 a new city hall building was erected. Soon after the new building was in use, Thomas Walsh funded a second story for a library, gymnasium, and a free public hall. The exterior of the red-brick building was designed to resemble Philadelphia’s Independence Hall.
The Western Hotel was built and opened in 1892. Situated near the Denver & Rio Grande Railway, it was immediately successful. Today the 28 room hotel continues to serve guests and includes a frontier-style bar and dining room.
The silver crash of 1893 delivered a temporary blow to Ouray and the entire San Juan region, which had primarily relied on silver mining. However, after a brief period of economic hardship, Ouray rebounded and continued to prosper, thanks to the development of rich gold mines on Gold Hill, the ongoing production of the Virginius-Revenue Mine at Sneffles, and the discovery of the Camp Bird Mine between Ouray and Telluride.
In 1897, Thomas Walsh opened the Camp Bird Mine, adding a 20-stamp mill in 1898 and a 40-stamp mill in 1899. The mine produced almost 200,000 ounces of gold by 1902 when Walsh sold out to Camp Bird, Ltd. By 1916; the Camp Bird Mine produced over one million ounces of gold.
Shortly after the turn-of-the-century, work began on the Joker Tunnel, which drained the rich silver mines of the Red Mountain District. In 1900, Ouray’s population was 2,196.
In 1927, the Ouray Hot Springs Pool opened. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places today, the pool features hot mineral water from seven natural springs. Amazingly, the pool has not changed much since construction. The 750,000-gallon sulfur-free mineral pool is open year-round.
A Transition to Tourism
In the early decades of the 20th century, mining activity gradually declined, leading to a corresponding decrease in population. By 1930, Ouray was home to only 707 residents. Simultaneously, the increasing popularity of automobiles led to a decline in railroad travel, and passenger service on the Denver & Rio Grande Railway was discontinued in September 1930.
In 1939, the Idarado Mining Company was founded, consolidating many of the existing mining claims in the area. During World War II, the Idarado Mine became a major producer of essential war metals. The company’s operations eventually extended almost to Telluride, continuing until 1978.
The Denver & Rio Grande Railway to and from Ouray was abandoned in 1953. In 1972, Ridgway’s line to Montrose was also abandoned, ending 85 years of railroad operations in Ouray County.
Ouray reached its all-time population low in 1990 with just 644 people. However, in recent decades, more people have been drawn to the area, which now boasts a population of over 1,000 people, with its economy primarily based on tourism.
A Legacy Preserved
The town’s rich history is vividly reflected in its many well-preserved historic structures. Unlike many other mining towns, Ouray was spared from devastating fires, resulting in the preservation of a significant number of 19th-century commercial buildings. The Ouray Historic District encompasses nearly the entire town, with the majority of buildings dating from 1886 to 1915, the peak of Ouray’s importance as a supply center for nearby mining regions. The Historic District includes 331 buildings, showcasing a variety of architectural styles, including ornate brick structures with cast-iron facades, Italianate and Romanesque brickwork, and numerous Queen Anne style homes. A historical walking tour begins and ends at the Ouray County Museum at 420 6th Avenue.
In addition to its historical charm, Ouray offers visitors a wide array of recreational activities, including horseback riding, four-wheel drives, rafting, and hiking or climbing in the mountains. Other attractions include the Box Canyon Waterfall, the Ouray Ice Park, and the Ouray Hot Springs Pool.
Ouray is located at the north end of the Million Dollar Highway and on the San Juan Skyway, providing visitors with breathtaking scenic views and access to the area’s many ghost towns. The Alpine Loop Backcountry Byway is also located nearby and can be accessed with 4-wheel drive vehicles.