Pecos River, New Mexico & Texas – Legends of America
The Pecos River, a significant tributary of the Rio Grande, meanders through the landscapes of New Mexico and Texas before converging with the Rio Grande near Del Rio, Texas. This river, renowned for its deep-rooted frontier folklore, embarks on a 926-mile journey, originating from the Pecos Wilderness. Along its course, it carves through rugged granite canyons, forms picturesque waterfalls, and graces small, high-mountain meadows, creating a diverse and captivating natural tapestry.
The name "Pecos," pronounced as "pay-cuss," has its origins in the Keresan language, derived from the Pecos Pueblo. The river’s headwaters are nestled north of Pecos, New Mexico, ascending to an elevation of over 12,000 feet on the western slopes of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range in Mora County. From this elevated source, the river descends through the eastern part of New Mexico and into neighboring Texas, eventually merging with the Rio Grande near Del Rio.
Historically, the Pecos River played a crucial role in the Spanish exploration of Texas. In the latter half of the 19th century, the phrase "West of the Pecos" became synonymous with the untamed frontiers of the Wild West, a region characterized by its rugged landscapes and adventurous spirit.
Early Settlers and Explorers
The earliest known inhabitants along the Pecos River were the Pecos Pueblo Indians, who established their presence around A.D. 800. The first European to set foot on the river’s banks was Francisco Vazquez de Coronado in 1541, marking a significant moment in the river’s history.
Over time, the river acquired various names from different groups. Antonio de Espejo, in 1583, referred to it as the Río de las Vacas, meaning "river of the cows," owing to the abundance of buffalo in the area. Gaspar Castano de Sosa, a Spanish explorer and colonist, named it the Río Salado, noting its salty taste that deterred both men and animals. Mexicans long knew the river as the Río Puerco, translating to "dirty river."
The first European settlement emerged around 1636 in San Miguel del Vado, situated in the upper valley of the Pecos in New Mexico. With the arrival of Anglo-Americans in Texas, the middle and upper Pecos Valley transformed into a primary western cattle trail, hosting several renowned cattle ranches that contributed to the region’s economic and cultural development.
Settlements and Infrastructure
In 1845, a small church group established a settlement in St. Gall, Texas. Fort Lancaster was constructed near the river in 1855, providing a strategic military outpost. The earliest Anglo settlement in Texas, excluding the fort, was Pecos, founded in 1881 when the Texas and Pacific Railway extended its reach across West Texas, marking a new era of connectivity and growth.
The Pecos River, known for its mineral-rich waters and unpredictable floods, meanders through Texas towards the Rio Grande. Over time, storytellers have depicted the river and its arid surroundings as symbols of hell, death, and violence, adding to its mystique and lore. Serving as a natural boundary for several counties, the Pecos marks the beginning of the mythic Wild West, a land that birthed legendary figures like Judge Roy Bean and the fictional Pecos Bill.
Folklore and Legends
Numerous tales and folklore are scattered along the river, including its role as a refuge for outlaws following the Civil War. The river’s association with lawlessness was so profound that "Pecos" evolved into a verb in folk speech, meaning to kill someone and dispose of the body in the river, highlighting the harsh realities of the era.
Historians and folklorists, such as J. Evetts Haley and J. Frank Dobie, have immortalized the Pecos River in their writings, describing it as a "strange river" and a "barricade." Zane Grey captured its essence, noting how its "pure waters cut through rough country that changed its flood to turbid red."
Lost Treasures and Local Legends
The Pecos River is also steeped in tales of lost mines and buried treasures, particularly around Castle Gap. These stories include accounts of outlaw gold, Mexican gold, hidden money from Butterfield Stagecoach robberies, and riches from Maximilian’s short-lived "Empire of Mexico," adding to the allure and intrigue of the region.
One local legend recounts cowboys driving cattle through Castle Gap. During a cattle drive organized by several ranches, a dispute arose between two drovers over the ownership of a large white longhorn cow. The argument escalated into a gunfight, resulting in the death of one of the drovers. The cowboys from the opposing ranch, distressed by the shooting, branded the word "MURDER" on the cow’s side with a running iron. Subsequently, neither side would claim the cow, and she was released into the wilderness. Sightings of the longhorn were reported for years, with legends claiming that even other cattle avoided her, further enhancing the mystique of the Pecos River.
The Perilous Pecos
Patrick Dearen, in "A Cowboy of the Pecos," aptly noted that "Just two things that cowboys were afraid of – the Pecos River and rattlesnakes," underscoring the river’s formidable nature and the dangers it posed to those who traversed its path.
The final 60 miles of the Pecos River feature towering canyon walls as it approaches its confluence with the Rio Grande near Del Rio. The Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad constructed the first high bridge across the river in 1891, marking a significant engineering feat. The first highway bridge, built about a mile downriver in 1928, stood only 50 feet above the water. However, it was destroyed by floodwaters in 1954, leading to the construction of two temporary low-water bridges in 1954 and 1955, which were also later destroyed by floods. A new, 1,310-foot-long bridge was completed in 1957, standing 273 feet above the river, making it the highest highway bridge in Texas.
Medal of Honor Fight
The Pecos River region was also the site of a Medal of Honor fight in 1875. During the 1870s, the U.S. Army relied on the Black Seminole Scouts in campaigns against raiding tribes along the Mexican border. In April 1875, Lieutenant John L. Bullis and three scouts – Sergeant John Ward, Private Pompey Factor, and Trumpeter Isaac Payne – left Fort Clark to scout for raiders. On April 25th, near the present bridge, they encountered a party of about 30 Comanche Indians. Despite being outnumbered, the scouts engaged the Comanche, but Bullis’ horse bolted, leaving him stranded. Factor and Payne provided cover fire, and Ward rescued his lieutenant. All three Seminole Scouts were later awarded the Medal of Honor for their bravery, recognizing their valor and dedication.
Recreation and Scenery
Today, the wild and scenic river corridor has become a popular recreation destination. Its popularity continues to grow due to its cool, forested environment, high-quality fishing, and beautiful scenery within the arid southwest. Popular activities include hiking, camping, backpacking, hunting, and fishing, providing opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts to connect with nature and appreciate the river’s unique charm.
The Pecos River, with its rich history, diverse landscapes, and captivating folklore, remains a significant landmark in the American Southwest, embodying the spirit of the frontier and the enduring allure of the Wild West.