Pulaski County, Missouri – Heart of the Ozarks
As travelers journey along the iconic Route 66, westward from Jerome, Missouri, they soon find themselves entering Pulaski County, a region proudly known as the "Heart of the Ozarks." This area, rich in history and natural beauty, offers a captivating experience for those seeking to explore the spirit of the Mother Road. The Pulaski County Tourism Bureau provides resources for travelers. These include a complimentary brochure filled with turn-by-turn directions and historical insights into Pulaski County’s original 33-mile stretch of Route 66. The brochure can be conveniently ordered online or downloaded from the bureau’s website, offering a user-friendly way to enhance your journey. Furthermore, a free audio tour is available, allowing travelers to delve deeper into the stories and landmarks of this unique region.
This portion of the Mother Road weaves its way through impressive rock bluffs, meanders over clear streams, and traverses verdant valleys. As you drive, glimpses of vintage restaurants, classic auto courts, and nostalgic service stations evoke a sense of a bygone era. The drive through Pulaski County is particularly scenic. Soon you will encounter a well-preserved four-lane section of Route 66. It was constructed during World War II to facilitate the movement of troops and equipment to and from Fort Leonard Wood. The original narrow and winding stretch of Route 66 through Devil’s Elbow proved inadequate for the increased traffic. The new four-lane highway was completed in 1943. Today, much of this old four-lane section remains remarkably well-maintained, a testament to its solid construction and enduring legacy. As the road cuts through the steep bluffs of the Big Piney River, the Hooker Cut stands out. It was considered one of the deepest road cuts in the nation at the time of its creation.
An interesting feature of this particular stretch of Route 66 is the inclined curbs that line the roadway. This design was a common practice during the era, based on the belief that sloping curbs would prevent vehicles from veering off the road. However, it was soon discovered that the angled curbs actually contributed to cars overturning. This design was eventually discontinued. The Pulaski County section of Route 66 provides a captivating glimpse into the past.
Devil’s Elbow – A Sharp Bend in the River
Just before crossing the Big Piney River, a turn to the left leads to the older alignment through Devil’s Elbow. The community of Devil’s Elbow began around 1870 as a lumberjack town. It was a place where logs were floated down the river. The settlement’s name originates from a large boulder situated at a sharp bend in the river. The boulder frequently caused log jams, giving rise to the moniker "Devil’s Elbow." Later, when Route 66 was built through the area, the settlement transformed into a resort community. Cabins, inns, service stops, and canoe rentals sprung up to cater to the influx of travelers.
Driving through this small community feels like stepping back in time. The enduring charm of this segment of the old Mother Road is palpable. Sheldon’s Market, which also houses the post office, has a history dating back to 1954 when it first opened as Miller’s Market. Later, it was known as Allman’s Market. The Elbow Inn Bar and Barbeque Pit, established in 1929, is one of the oldest original buildings on Route 66. It still operates as the same type of business. Notably, the Elbow Inn was once the home of the Munger Moss Sandwich Shop, which relocated to Lebanon, Missouri, in 1946 after the highway was realigned through the Hooker Cut.
A historic steel truss bridge, dating back to 1926, spans the Big Piney River in Devil’s Elbow. McCoy’s Store and Camp, constructed in 1941, still stands as a reminder of the area’s past. While no longer open, the establishment once featured a bustling store on the lower level and offered rooms for rent to Route 66 travelers during its heyday. The Pulaski County community of Devil’s Elbow encapsulates the spirit of the Mother Road.
In late April 2017, Devil’s Elbow experienced a record flood. According to the Waynesville Daily Guide, the overflowing Gasconade River inundated the historic Route 66 Bridge and reached the roof of the Elbow Inn. Homes were swept off their foundations due to the unusually heavy rains. Portions of Route 66 were washed away. In addition to the flooding in Devil’s Elbow, some residents in Waynesville were also forced to evacuate due to flooding from the Roubidoux River.
Waynesville Epitomizes Main Street USA
Leaving Devil’s Elbow, travelers enter Saint Robert, home to George M. Reed Park. The park is one of the last remaining roadside parks along Route 66 in Missouri. The journey continues into Waynesville, a town with a charming downtown district that embodies the essence of Main Street USA. Waynesville’s origins date back to 1831 when a man named G.W. Gibson settled on the land where the town stands today. In 1832, Pulaski County was established, and Waynesville was soon designated as the county seat. James A. Bates opened one of the first stores in the settlement in 1835. It served as a temporary courthouse. The town was platted in 1839, and a post office was established. It was named after General “Mad Anthony” Wayne, a renowned Revolutionary War hero and Indian fighter.
Like much of Missouri, Waynesville declared itself "Confederate" during the Civil War, even flying the rebel flag over its courthouse. However, this allegiance was short-lived due to the town’s strategic location on the Wire Road. On June 7, 1862, Federal troops marched into Waynesville, taking control of the town and constructing a fort to protect the Wire Road.
Originally sustained by lumber and agricultural interests, Waynesville evolved into more of a tourist community. The construction of Route 66 helped with this evolution.
At the junction of Route 66 and Highway 17, travelers officially enter Waynesville. The historic square boasts several notable buildings, including the Old Stagecoach Stop Museum. Constructed in 1850, it served as a stage waystation and post office. During the Civil War, the Federal Army commandeered the building and used it as a hospital while Union forces built the fort on the south side of the square. Later, it functioned as a hotel, boarding house, and private residence. By 1982, the building had fallen into disrepair and was condemned by the city. However, Waynesville citizens rallied to save the building. Today, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Old Route 66 Courthouse Museum, built in 1903, also stands on the square. It served Pulaski County until 1989. The Pulaski County seat of Waynesville is a must-see.
At Route 66 and Benton Street, a building that once housed the Rigsby Standard Oil station, serving Route 66 travelers in its heyday, can be seen. Visitors may find it helpful to download the Waynesville Downtown Walking Tour or obtain a copy at one of the many shops around the square.
According to Beth Wiles, Executive Director of the Pulaski County Tourism Bureau, downtown Waynesville has undergone a major renovation. A tourist district located a few doors down from the Rigsby Station features a Route 66 Candy Shop, gift shops with Route 66 memorabilia, wine, and moonshine tastings. Hoppers, across the street from the Route 66 Courthouse Museums, offers 66 beers on tap. It is named in honor of Frog Rock, the large frog that overlooks Route 66 as you enter town. Waynesville has also partnered with the National Park Service on the Trail of Tears Memorial and Interpretive Trail. Located just before the Roubidoux Bridge, on the left, in Laughlin Park, the storyboards take visitors along concrete pathways that follow the river and along the pathway and boardwalk to the Roubidoux Spring and underwater cave.
As travelers leave Waynesville, they enter the area known as Buckhorn and cross the overpass of Interstate 44. The small Pleasant Grove Church, serving its congregation since 1926, can be seen. A short distance down the road sits the building that once housed the Hillcrest Grocers & Station, which pumped KanOTex gas in 1932.
Route 66 takes a right turn on County Road P, leading through the old town of Laquey (pronounced “Lakeway”). Continuing to follow the old route, signs of the area once called Gascozark and the small town of Hazelgreen become visible before reaching Lebanon. Along this stretch, several historic buildings that once catered to travelers along the old highway can be observed.