Ramblings In the West
By General Randolph B. Marcy, Published in 1888
The late 19th century witnessed a remarkable transformation in the American West. The rapid displacement of Native American tribes and the subsequent development of the land into thriving settlements represents a pivotal moment in the nation’s history. The transition from a landscape defined by indigenous cultures and untamed wilderness to one of burgeoning cities, productive farms, and established communities is a story of profound change. This article, "Ramblings In the West", aims to explore this era through the lens of personal experiences.
This narrative draws primarily upon the author’s extensive observations during a half-century of service in the United States Army, predominantly spent in the Western territories. Serving as a military officer during this period provided a unique vantage point to witness the unfolding drama of westward expansion. The observations made offer insight into the changing landscapes, the interactions between settlers and indigenous populations, and the challenges and opportunities presented by this vast and dynamic region.
As an army officer, the author was frequently tasked with leading expeditions into the most remote areas of the West. These explorations involved long marches, demanding logistical planning, and the occasional encounter with severe hardships. Venturing into uncharted territories, often far removed from established settlements, provided a firsthand understanding of the land’s diverse characteristics. It is from this unique perspective that these "Ramblings In the West" are presented.
The purpose of these Ramblings In the West is to share notable incidents and observations from a somewhat adventurous career. It is hoped that these accounts will offer readers a glimpse into the topographical, agricultural, and other distinctive features of this critical section of the American domain. The West’s story is complex, encompassing both progress and displacement, opportunity and hardship. This narrative seeks to capture some of that complexity through personal experience.
The author’s military service began in Wisconsin during a time when the region was still largely undeveloped. Cultivated farms were nonexistent across the entire area of what is now a prominent agricultural state. Traveling through the dense forests was only possible by following narrow, winding Native American trails. The landscape west of Lake Michigan, extending south to Milwaukee, was a vast, primeval forest, devoid of roads, clearings, or houses. The only notable structure in the fledgling settlement of Milwaukee belonged to Solomon Juneau, a French Indian trader known for his hospitality. Juneau had preemptively secured a patent for a quarter section of land, which now forms the foundation of the thriving metropolis of Milwaukee. This is just one example of the dramatic changes that the author witnessed during his time in the West.
When the author first arrived in Wisconsin, the edge of Western settlement was marked by the Mississippi River. From that time onward, a network of military outposts was established to provide a protective barrier against Native American raids, a barrier designed to safeguard the progress of westward expansion. It was believed that without the presence of these military forces, the advancement of settlements beyond the Mississippi River would have been significantly delayed, and possibly prevented altogether, for many years. This military presence played a crucial role in shaping the trajectory of Western development.
In 1838, the author visited Fort Snelling, Minnesota, a location situated only five miles from the future site of the bustling cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis. At that time, the area was entirely devoid of any white settlement. In fact, between Fort Snelling and Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, a distance of approximately 300 miles along the Mississippi River, only three cabins were to be seen. In stark contrast, the present-day landscape is dotted with numerous thriving towns and well-cultivated plantations lining the banks of the river throughout its length. The transformation is a testament to the rapid pace of development that characterized the West. These are the stories the Ramblings In the West tell.
In 1848, the author received orders to serve in the Indian Territory, where he spent several years among the Choctaw, Chickasaw, Creek, and Cherokee nations, totaling approximately 50,000 people. Through the dedicated efforts of missionaries, these tribes had made significant strides in civilization and enlightenment. Abandoning their traditional hunting practices, they had embraced agricultural pursuits. They established churches and schools, which were well-supported, and many individuals received a solid education. They lived in comfortable homes and produced abundant crops, with some even cultivating extensive and profitable cotton plantations.
The combined Choctaw and Chickasaw Reservations covered an area of approximately 300 by 200 miles, encompassing woodlands and picturesque prairies. The area was well-watered, and the soil was highly productive, making it ideally suited for agriculture. In 1849, while stationed there, the author was tasked with escorting a large group of emigrants from Arkansas to New Mexico, en route to California. The journey, following a course near the 35th parallel of latitude, began with 200 miles through a dense forest. Upon emerging from the forest, the party entered the Great Plains, following the Canadian River Valley for 400 miles across an unexplored, arid, and barren landscape. This was followed by a trek through mountainous terrain until they reached Santa Fe, a distance of 820 miles from their starting point at Fort Smith.
Upon arriving in Santa Fe, it became clear that the emigrants would be unable to take their wagons directly to California. The only viable route involved traveling 300 miles south along the Rio Grande to the Gila route. It appeared that authorities in Washington had mistakenly believed a direct wagon trail existed from Santa Fe to San Francisco, leading to the issuance of the orders under this misapprehension.
Recognizing that the road they had forged was no longer suitable for California-bound emigrants, as it deviated 200 miles from the direct route, the author resolved to accompany the party to the Gila Road. The author also resolved to attempt to find a practicable wagon route from that point back to Arkansas. Enlisting the help of a Comanche Indian who claimed to be able to guide them to Texas, they ventured out from Donna Anna on the Rio Grande. The author successfully charted an excellent road to Fort Smith, a distance of 904 miles. Approximately 500 miles of this route traversed an unexplored region. This road was subsequently used by emigrants for several years. The Texas Pacific Railway now follows a similar path. The road from Fort Smith crossed the Red, Trinity, Brazos, and Colorado Rivers of Texas, traversing a fertile region as far as the 101st degree of longitude, about 120 miles beyond the western limits of arable land on most other Pacific routes. Beyond this point, through Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona, the land was primarily sterile and suitable only for grazing. These journeys form the core of the stories in "Ramblings In the West".
Four transcontinental railroads, along with numerous auxiliary Eastern branches, have been completed across the continent within the United States. However, the public may not fully grasp the agricultural potential of much of the land these railroads traverse. Many believe that the border territories possess all the necessary elements to become rich grain-producing states. This assumption is inaccurate. Personal observations, gathered while crossing the Rocky Mountain chain at various points between latitudes 32 and 48 north, reveal a broad belt of elevated arid tablelands extending from latitude 31 to 45 and from longitude 100 to 120. The infrequency of summer rains in this region makes it difficult to produce crops without artificial irrigation.
The scarcity of permanent water sources makes widespread irrigation impractical, except along the few streams where water can be diverted onto the bottoms or channeled in ditches from nearby mountains. Furthermore, this entire tract is devoid of woodland, except for narrow fringes of cottonwood along watercourses. Pine timber can be found in the mountains, which provides lumber, but hardwood is scarce. The author, during hunting expeditions in these mountains every September for the past 14 years, has never encountered an oak or other hardwood tree large enough to provide a suitable wagon tongue.
Given these limitations, it becomes clear that expanding Western frontier settlements beyond Texas, Missouri, Kansas, and Nebraska with the expectation of creating additional agricultural states is unrealistic. The history of New Mexico, occupied by the Spanish for over a century and continuously cultivated in nearly all its available land, provides a stark illustration of this. Even after New Mexico was ceded to the United States in 1848, very little was added to its cultivated area or population.
In 1852, the author received orders from the War Department to explore the Red River of Louisiana from its upper settlements to its source. No record existed of anyone having reached the head of this major tributary of the Mississippi, which was navigable for steamers for 1500 miles upstream. It was believed to originate in a mountainous region east of New Mexico.
The navigable section of the Red River meanders through heavily timbered alluvial bottomlands, highly fertile and capable of producing large crops of cotton and cereals without irrigation. The explorations began above the timbered section, where the soil was less deep than downstream. The land became increasingly arid and sterile as the party ascended the river, eventually reaching the point where it emerged from the great Llano Estacado through a deep canyon. Here, the water was bitter and unpalatable due to the decomposition of gypsum, flowing through a massive deposit of this mineral for seventy miles. The geologist Dr. Hitchcock considered it the largest body of gypsum in the world, with one exception. Once this deposit was passed, the water became pure and free of salts.
While serving in Florida during the Seminole War in 1857, the author’s regiment was ordered to march from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, to Utah to assist authorities in enforcing federal laws against the Mormons.
Leaving the Missouri River with large trains of ox teams carrying supplies, the regiment proceeded at a pace of only 14 miles per day until reaching the Rocky Mountains. There, they encountered cold storms and heavy snowfall, which caused the cattle, already weakened by overwork and lack of forage, to break down and die in large numbers. This forced the regiment to halt for the winter at Fort Bridger, Wyoming, 150 miles short of their destination at Salt Lake City, Utah.
The Mormons exhibited extreme hostility, destroying three of the regiment’s large supply trains. Orders captured from armed Mormon parties instructed them to destroy roads, burn bridges and grass, and impede the regiment’s progress in every possible way. They had also fortified mountain gorges and threatened war should the regiment attempt to approach Salt Lake City.
The author read in the Deseret News a quote from Heber Kimball, one of Brigham Young’s disciples, who declared, "We are told in the good book that we should love our enemies, but I feel to hate my enemies, and I hate the President of the United States… I have wives enough to whip out that army." While such pronouncements did not cause great concern, the dire state of the animals made it unlikely that they would have been able to proceed at once, which could have resulted in a bloody conflict.
The regiment reached Fort Bridger around mid-November, having been on the road for nearly four months. The destruction of the supply trains depleted most of their winter provisions. As these could not be replenished from the Missouri River before the following June, General Johnston, the commander, decided to send a detachment directly over the mountains to New Mexico, where it was believed supplies could be obtained sooner than from the east. The author was chosen to lead this expedition. With an experienced mountain guide and forty enlisted men, along with sixty-six pack mules, they departed Fort Bridger on November 24.
The expedition encountered a band of Digger Ute Indians. The author attempted to hire their chief to guide them over the mountains, offering the price of four horses. The chief refused, stating that he would not attempt it for any price, as the snow was already two feet deep in the autumn and could now be six feet deep. He advised them to remain with him through the winter or return to where they came from, as they would certainly perish if they continued. Despite this warning, they resumed their march the following day. These are the kind of stories that make up Ramblings In the West.