Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico
Nestled in the high desert of northern New Mexico, just a few miles southwest of the town of Taos, lies the serene village of Ranchos de Taos. This unassuming locale holds a significant place in American history and art, primarily due to its centerpiece: the San Francisco de Asis Mission Church. This architectural marvel, a designated National Historic Landmark, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Spanish Colonial influence in the region and the resilience of the community that has nurtured it for centuries.
The story of Ranchos de Taos is interwoven with the broader narrative of Spanish exploration and settlement in the American Southwest. Long before it became the tranquil village it is today, the fertile Taos Valley, rich in water resources, caught the attention of Spanish colonizers. Their ambitions, however, were met with staunch resistance from the indigenous Pueblo people who had called this land home for generations.
Prior to the pivotal Pueblo Revolt of 1680, Spanish missionaries made initial attempts to convert the native population. The resolute refusal of the indigenous people to abandon their ancestral beliefs and traditions did little to deter the northward expansion of the Spanish from Mexico. Their ambition was to establish dominion over the area. Tensions escalated, culminating in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. This cataclysmic event saw the indigenous people rise up against their oppressors, driving the Spanish out of the region for a period of twelve years.
However, the Spanish were not to be deterred. They began their return, gradually reasserting control. By 1715, a Spanish alcalde mayor (chief magistrate) was appointed, marking the formal reinstatement of Spanish authority. The Spanish crown then initiated the process of granting land, including areas like Las Trampas de Taos. In 1725, Ranchos de Taos was officially established as a permanent Spanish settlement, laying the foundation for the community that would eventually flourish.
The early years of Ranchos de Taos were fraught with peril. In 1760, the village suffered a devastating attack by Comanche Indians, resulting in the kidnapping of 56 women and children and the deaths of 17 people. The surviving Hispanic settlers sought refuge in the nearby Taos Pueblo, forging a bond of mutual protection with their former adversaries. Over the subsequent two decades, the settlers cautiously returned to their farms and plazas, rebuilding their lives amidst the ever-present threat of further attacks.
These early settlements were strategically designed for defense. They typically consisted of small, fortified communities, characterized by contiguous houses built around a central open area known as a plaza. Access to the plaza was limited to a single fortified gate, providing a secure enclosure for the community’s livestock and a refuge in times of danger. In 1772, the construction of a mission church began in Ranchos de Taos, with Franciscan friars overseeing the project.
In 1776, Francisco Atanasio Domínguez, a Spanish Franciscan priest, described Ranchos de Taos as a settlement consisting of scattered ranchos (farmsteads), whose owners resided in the Taos Pueblo. At that time, it was the most prominent Spanish settlement in the Taos Valley. By 1780, the community had developed a more cohesive structure, forming a square plaza with houses built in a defensive configuration, complete with towers at strategic points. The plaza, enclosing over two acres, served as a secure enclosure for the community’s livestock in the event of an Indian attack, with the unfinished church standing within its confines.
The Don Fernando de Taos Grant, formalized in 1796, officially recognized the village of Taos. At that time, the area comprised six Hispanic plazas, home to 779 Hispanos. In the following two years, land from the Don Fernando de Taos Land Grant was distributed to 63 Spanish families, further solidifying the settlement’s foundations.
A pivotal moment in the history of Ranchos de Taos came with the appointment of Fray Jose Benito Pereyro, a priest from the Taos Pueblo, to serve the settlers. Under his guidance, the San Francisco de Asis Mission Church was finally completed in 1816, becoming the spiritual and social heart of the community.
The San Francisco de Asis Mission Church is an architectural masterpiece, a testament to the blending of Spanish and indigenous building traditions. Its massive adobe buttresses provide structural support, while its two front-facing bell towers create a striking visual presence. The church’s design is an impressive blend of native and Spanish styles. Three white crosses adorn the two towers and the church entranceway, symbolizing the Christian faith. The back of the church is supported by four distinctive "beehive"-shaped buttresses, while two buttresses flank each bell tower at the front. Inside, a choir loft overlooks the entrance, and the spacious sanctuary provides ample room for worshipers and visitors. The altar is adorned with original Spanish woodworking and religious iconography, adding to the church’s spiritual ambiance. A thick adobe wall surrounds the church, cemetery, and forecourt, creating a sense of enclosure and protection.
In 1840, Matt Field, an American journalist traveling through New Mexico, described Ranchos de Taos as a town nestled at the base of a gigantic mountain, watered by a swift stream. He noted the unique architectural style of the houses, built completely together to form a wall enclosing a large square, with a church at its center.
Today, the San Francisco de Asisi Mission Church remains an active center of community life, its enduring presence a source of pride and identity for the residents of Ranchos de Taos. The community takes great care to preserve and maintain the church’s historic integrity. In 1967, a major restoration project was undertaken to protect the exterior from future damage, including the application of a hard plaster and the addition of a new roof. The church doors were replaced with accurate replicas of the originals, and the vigas (wooden ceiling beams) and 60 percent of the corbels were replaced with historically accurate reproductions. However, the hard plaster proved to be damaging over time. In a testament to the community’s dedication, citizens, parish members, and visitors gather each June for two weeks to re-mud the adobe church’s exterior with mud and straw, a traditional practice that helps to preserve its unique character.
The church’s imposing form and sculpted body have made it a favorite subject for artists and photographers. Ansel Adams, the renowned photographer, captured its essence in his Taos Pueblo art book, while Georgia O’Keeffe, the iconic American painter, created a series of perspectives of the church. O’Keeffe once described it as "one of the most beautiful buildings left in the United States by the early Spaniards." In their works, these artists often favored the view of the back of the church, with its smoothly sculpted adobe beehive buttresses. The beautiful colonial-era church continues to attract artists, and the Ranchos de Taos plaza is home to several galleries.
Visitors to Ranchos de Taos can learn more about the art and history of the mission church at the parish office and gift shop, where Santos (saints) and retablos (altarpieces) made by local artists are sold. The plaza is also home to a variety of adobe buildings that now house retail stores, galleries, and restaurants. The Old Martinez Hall, now known as Old Martina’s Hall, has been lovingly renovated by Martina Gebhardt and renamed in her honor. The enormous vigas spanning the great hall have been preserved, along with the massive adobe walls.
As a National Historic Landmark, the San Francisco de Asisi Mission Church is an active parish within the Santa Fe Diocese, continuing to serve the spiritual needs of the Ranchos de Taos community with regular masses and festivals. Located about three miles south of Taos on NM State Road 68, the church is open to visitors year-round, and the plaza offers a variety of shopping, dining, and artistic experiences.
At the time of the 2000 census, the area population of Ranchos de Taos was 2,390.