Redford, Texas and the Lost Mission of El Polvo

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Redford, Texas and the Lost Mission of El Polvo

Redford, Texas and the Lost Mission of El Polvo

Nestled in the heart of Presidio County, Texas, lies the serene farming community of Redford. Though its population has dwindled over the years, this locale boasts a rich and layered history, stretching back centuries and encompassing indigenous settlements, Spanish exploration, and the establishment of a unique cultural crossroads. The story of Redford, Texas, is intertwined with the tale of a lost mission, El Polvo, and the resilience of its people.

The area surrounding Redford is part of a larger Spanish district known as La Junta de los Ríos, a region characterized by the confluence of the Rio Grande and the Rio Conchos. Archaeological evidence suggests that this area has been inhabited since the Paleo-Indian Period, with hunter-gatherer societies thriving here as far back as 8,000 to 6,500 B.C. These early inhabitants sustained themselves on the region’s diverse flora and fauna, relying on small game and edible plants.

By 1500 B.C., the influence of corn farming began to take root, with the Cochise culture leaving its mark on the landscape. Around 700 A.D., a significant shift occurred as many of the region’s indigenous groups began to adopt more sedentary lifestyles. Influenced by the pre-Puebloan cultures such as the Mogollon and the Anasazi, the people of La Junta gradually incorporated pottery into their daily lives, constructed jacal dwellings, and developed extensive trade networks that facilitated the exchange of goods and ideas across vast distances. The area’s allure as a settlement was undeniable, marked by abundant water resources, fertile farmland perfect for cultivation, and plentiful game for sustenance. Furthermore, its strategic location along an ancient and heavily trafficked north-south trade route enhanced its significance as a hub of activity.

The arrival of the Spanish in 1535 marked a new chapter in the history of La Junta de los Ríos. The region was then inhabited primarily by the Patarabueye and Jumano people. Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca, a Spanish explorer and one of the few survivors of the ill-fated Pánfilo de Narváez expedition, traversed this land with three companions. These first non-Indigenous eyes witnessed a tapestry of villages, ranging in size from small family clusters to settlements boasting over 1,000 residents with sophisticated political systems. These communities lived in single-story, flat-roofed pit houses crafted from adobe, a testament to their ingenuity and resourcefulness. They cultivated large crops of corn, beans, squash, pumpkins, and melons, demonstrating their agricultural prowess and their ability to thrive in the challenging environment.

Over the next four decades, various Spanish expeditions journeyed through La Junta, meticulously documenting the lives and customs of the native peoples residing in the scattered villages along the two rivers. These detailed accounts laid the groundwork for an increased Spanish presence in the area, which included the introduction of livestock and advanced agricultural techniques. La Junta soon transformed into a vibrant cultural crossroads, attracting farmers and hunters, nomads and villagers, all drawn to the region’s resources and opportunities.

The Spanish, driven by their desire to spread Christianity and establish their dominion, began constructing missions throughout the area. One such mission was erected near the site that would later become Redford. Situated just above the Rio Grande, at its confluence with the Arroyo de la Iglesia (Church Creek), stood the village of Tapacolmes. Sometime around the turn of the 17th century, the Spanish established the San Pedro de Alcántara de los Tapalcomes mission on a large terrace. However, this mission proved to be short-lived, as the Tapacolmes people are believed to have abandoned the pueblo by 1725, likely due to the constant threat of Apache raids.

In 1747, Captain Joseph de Ydoiaga, during an expedition to La Junta de Los Rios, visited the site and recorded its desolate state. The pueblo had been abandoned, and the once-imposing walls of the church lay in ruins, a stark reminder of the challenges faced by early settlers in this remote frontier.

For nearly a century and a half, Tapacolmes remained largely uninhabited, save for a few small rancherías. Then, in 1870, Texas Governor Richard Cocke initiated a policy designed to encourage Mexican citizens to cross the border and settle in Presidio County. These new settlers were offered 160 acres of land and the promise of American citizenship, incentives that drew many families to the region. These colonists faced numerous challenges, including the threat of Apache raids, the arduous task of clearing the floodplains, and the establishment of farms. They brought with them goats and cattle, enriching the region’s agricultural landscape. They worked together to build homes, dams, and hand-dug canals for irrigation, many of which are still in use today, a testament to their collaborative spirit and engineering skills. Many of these dams continue to provide water for irrigation farming on both sides of the Rio Grande in the Redford Valley.

In 1871, the colonists officially founded their village, naming it El Polvo, which translates to "the dust" in Spanish. However, for generations, the indigenous peoples and Mexicans had referred to the area as Vado Rojo, or "red crossing," a name derived from the distinctive red hue of the stone bedrock that lay beneath the Rio Grande and lined the hills on either side of the valley. The initial village layout featured a central square surrounded by connected adobe houses, with doorways opening inward toward the square, creating a sense of community and security. However, this arrangement was abandoned around 1900 as the community became more dispersed.

It is believed that the new settlers of El Polvo repurposed the ruins of the old mission, repairing them for use as a church. Descriptions from the time depict a large adobe building comprising a main chapel and a smaller room, likely a sacristy. The long building featured a large double-door entrance to the main chapel, and inside were two large adobe altars. However, by the early 1900s, the building had fallen into such disrepair that it was abandoned, leading to the construction of a new church.

In May 1885, during a period of heightened tensions with the Apache, General George Crook ordered troops to be stationed at every major crossing point along the Rio Grande border. This decision was prompted by raids led by Geronimo and other Apache leaders on small settlements throughout southern New Mexico and into Texas. In June, Lieutenant George K. Hunter, commanding troops at Camp Pena Colorada, and Lieutenant H.F. Kendall, commanding the Black Seminole scouts at Nevill’s Springs, were ordered to guard the region between Presidio del Norte and Presidio de San Vicente. The Black Seminole scouts established Camp Polvo just east of the town of El Polvo and began patrolling the surrounding region for any signs of hostile Apache activity.

The 1890s brought a mix of challenges and opportunities to the region. A severe drought in the early part of the decade devastated the area’s ranchers. Simultaneously, mining was gaining prominence in Shafter to the northwest and Terlingua to the east, drawing many farm and ranch workers to the mines in search of employment.

Around the same time, the US Army began consolidating its frontier garrisons. In 1891, Fort Davis and Camp Neville (located in present-day Big Bend National Park) were closed, and the Black Seminole Scouts were relocated to Camp Polvo along the banks of the Rio Grande.

Fortunately, the drought ended in 1895, allowing ranchers to restock their ranges with cattle, sheep, and goats, revitalizing the region’s agricultural economy.

By 1900, the old mission was in such a state of decay that it was abandoned and replaced with the new Church of San Jose del Polvo in 1914. This church was characterized by its offset stone bell tower with a low hip roof. However, it too was eventually replaced by the current San Jose Catholic Church, built in 1970. The old church, now privately owned, still stands as a reminder of the town’s past.

During the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), the region experienced significant unrest as the conflict spilled across the border. U.S. military operations were greatly increased along the border during this period. During the 1914 Pershing Expedition, which aimed to capture Pancho Villa, nearby Presidio served as an emergency landing field for the first U.S. planes to engage in foreign combat. Additionally, U.S. Cavalry troops were stationed along the Rio Grande at Ruidoso, Camp Fulton at Presidio, and Camp Polvo in Redford. Camp Polvo, which had been closed some years earlier, was reactivated between 1916 and 1920.

In 1911, the community received a post office, located about a half-mile above the El Polvo River crossing. However, postal authorities insisted on an English name for the post office. The villagers complied by providing a literal translation of the Spanish name, Red Ford. The authorities didn’t specify whether it should be one word or two.

By 1914, the town boasted four general stores, but its growth remained limited. In 1934, it had approximately 60 residents and three businesses.

Around 1956, the last crumbling walls of the old San Pedro de Alcántara de los Tapalcomes Mission were leveled by county officials at the landowner’s request. During this process, numerous manos and metates, tools used to grind seeds, nuts, and other plant foods, were recovered from the site, providing valuable insights into the daily lives of the mission’s inhabitants.

By 1970, Redford had a school, a church, numerous homes, and a population of 107.

In 1979, Lucia Rede Madrid, a descendant of the original settlers and a retired schoolteacher, opened a school library in her family’s store. The store closed around 1990 but continues to serve as a library and museum, preserving the history and heritage of the community.

In 2000, the city had 132 residents, but in the next decade, the population decreased to just 89 in 2010. Its post office closed in 2012.

Today, Redford stands as one of the oldest communities in the United States. This predominantly Mexican-American town is connected to the Mexican town of Mulato, Mexico, just across the river, fostering strong cultural and economic ties. Over 90% of its residents claim Native American ancestry, highlighting the deep roots of the indigenous peoples in this region. Parts of the old settlement of El Polvo have been designated as a State Archeological Landmark, recognizing its historical and cultural significance.

Numerous old buildings, including the ruins of an adobe cavalry fort and customs station, and the old Church of San Jose del Polvo, offer visitors unique photo opportunities and a glimpse into the past.

Redford is located approximately 16 miles southeast of Presidio, Texas, along Farm Road 170, a scenic route that follows the Rio Grande through both Big Bend Ranch State Park and Big Bend National Park. This location makes it an ideal destination for those seeking to explore the natural beauty and rich history of the Big Bend region.