Riddle Brothers Ranch – Pioneer Homestead in Oregon
Nestled in the southeastern expanse of Oregon, within the embrace of Harney County and the shadow of Steens Mountain, lies the historic Riddle Brothers Ranch. This remote locale, a testament to pioneer life, whispers tales of resilience, adaptation, and the enduring spirit of the American West. The surrounding landscape, a tapestry woven with the threads of wilderness, holds a history that stretches back millennia, long before the arrival of European explorers.
Steens Mountain, a dominant feature of the region, commands attention with its imposing stature. Rising abruptly from the Alvord Desert floor at approximately 4,200 feet, it ascends to a summit of 9,733 feet. Its sheer size and extended north-south orientation, spanning some 50 miles, lend it the appearance of a mountain range rather than a solitary peak. For countless generations, the area surrounding Steens Mountain served as a homeland for Native American tribes, who thrived in its diverse ecosystems for an estimated 10,000 years.
The written chronicle of this land began in the early 19th century with the arrival of fur traders, intrepid explorers seeking to exploit the region’s rich natural resources. Between 1826 and 1829, expeditions from the Snake Country ventured into the area, leaving their mark on the landscape. John Work, a member of the Hudson’s Bay Company, referred to the mountain range as the "Snowy Mountains," a fitting descriptor given its often snow-capped peaks. Shortly after, Canadian fur trader Peter Skene Ogden further explored the region, adding to the growing body of knowledge about this remote territory. In 1845, the area witnessed the passage of a wagon train led by Steven Meeks, who mistakenly identified the snow-covered Steens Mountain as the Cascade Mountains, a testament to the vastness and unfamiliarity of the landscape to early settlers.
In 1852, William and Maximilla Riddle embarked on a journey along the Oregon Trail and subsequently the Applegate Trail, ultimately settling in the South Umpqua River country of Southern Oregon. Their presence shaped the region, which became known as Riddle Valley, and eventually, by 1884, the town of Riddle, Oregon, was established, forever linking their name to the landscape.
The year 1860 marked a significant moment in the region’s history. The U.S. Army dispatched Major Enoch Steen with a dual mission: to provide protection for the burgeoning settler population and to assess the feasibility of constructing a road connecting southeastern Oregon to the Willamette Valley. In the course of his duties, Major Steen led his troops in conflicts with members of the Paiute tribe who inhabited the mountain. Following these engagements, Steen’s party bestowed names upon many prominent topographic features, including Steens Mountain itself, solidifying his place in the region’s cartography. Four years later, in 1864, Captain George B. Curry led a unit of the 1st Oregon Cavalry through the same territory. During a violent thunderstorm, the cavalrymen were forced to ford a river on the western slope of Steens Mountain. Inspired by the dramatic weather, Curry named the river Donder and Blitzen, German words meaning thunder and lightning. Over time, the name evolved into the Donner und Blitzen River, a testament to the power and capriciousness of nature in this rugged land.
The livestock industry began to take root in 1872, with cattle being driven into the area to graze on the open range. That same year, Tobias, one of William Riddle’s sons, married Sarah Smyth and relocated to the Harney Basin with her family. Initially, they settled near some warm springs in the vicinity of present-day Hines. However, after enduring a particularly harsh winter, they sought a more temperate climate and moved to a location near what is now Diamond, Oregon. Tobias and Sarah went on to have nine children, further cementing the Riddle family’s connection to the region.
Later, in the 1870s, the Riddles made a significant business decision, selling their holdings to Peter French, a prominent cattle baron, for a substantial sum of $30,000. This transaction prompted their return to Riddle Valley. Shortly after their move, tragedy struck when Sarah’s father and brother were killed by Native Americans during the Bannock War, a stark reminder of the dangers and conflicts that characterized life on the frontier.
By the dawn of the 20th century, cattle ranches had become a common sight in the valleys surrounding Steens Mountain. Among these ranchers were the Riddle Brothers – Walter, Frederick, and Benjamin – the sons of Tobias and Sarah Smyth Riddle. These three bachelor brothers arrived in the area around 1900, a time when an estimated 100,000 cattle and sheep roamed freely on the open range in the valleys surrounding Steens Mountain.
Choosing a location along the Little Blitzen River, the Riddle Brothers established their homesites and began their cattle-raising operation. Over the course of several years, they diligently expanded their land holdings on both sides of the river, eventually accumulating 1,120 acres. This strategic acquisition allowed them to control access to the water resources in the area, effectively rendering the surrounding open rangeland unusable to other ranchers without their permission.
The Riddle Brothers dedicated their lives to their ranch, living and working together for half a century. Remarkably, none of them ever married, their lives focused on the demanding work of ranching and the close bonds of brotherhood. In the late 1950s, they made the decision to sell their ranch to a man named Rex Clemens, who continued to raise livestock on the property for nearly 30 years, preserving its agricultural heritage.
In 1986, a new chapter began for the Riddle Brothers Ranch when the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) purchased the property from Clemens. The BLM recognized the ranch’s historical significance and sought to preserve it for future generations. In 1991, the Riddle Brothers Ranch was officially recognized for its historical value and was listed as a historic district on the National Register of Historic Places.
Today, the Riddle Brothers Ranch National Historic District stands as a tangible link to the past, offering visitors a glimpse into the lives of pioneer settlers and the development of the livestock industry in the American West. The remaining structures on the ranch evoke a sense of simpler times, transporting visitors back to an era of homemade housing, handcrafted furnishings, kerosene lamps, and the natural abundance of streams teeming with trout. The ranch setting exemplifies the close relationship between livestock production and the support of wildlife. The Riddle Brothers Ranch represents a significant part of Oregon’s last frontier, a settlement on semiarid lands that drew the attention of countless speculators and home-seekers in the northern Great Basin between 1900 and 1920.
The Bureau of Land Management has undertaken careful restoration and stabilization efforts on the ranch’s structures, ensuring that their historical integrity is maintained. The pioneer ranch complex functions as an open-air museum, with original artifacts displayed in their original locations, providing an authentic and immersive experience for visitors. As visitors explore the ranch meadows, they can discover the historic structures associated with each brother. These include Frederick Riddle’s house, cookhouse, barn, root cellar, and blacksmith shop/tack room; and Benjamin Riddle’s house, barn, bathhouse, root cellar, and willow corral. Sadly, the Walter Riddle House was destroyed by a wildfire in 1994, leaving only the stone fireplace as a poignant reminder of its existence.
Visitors to the Riddle Brothers Ranch can immerse themselves in a variety of outdoor activities. Fishing, hiking, horseback riding, exploring the historic structures, or simply relaxing along the Little Blitzen River beneath the shade of cottonwood trees are all popular pastimes. Hikers can venture north along the Cold Springs Road to access portions of the Steens Mountain Wilderness or explore east cross-country to reach the Little Blitzen Gorge. While camping is not permitted on the ranch property itself, several Native American archeological sites are located on the ranch, although these are not open to public access.
Access to the Riddle Brothers Ranch is regulated by a locked gate during the summer season, which typically runs from mid-June through October. The gate is periodically opened to vehicular traffic throughout the week, depending on conditions. Travelers are advised to contact the Burns District office or check the sign on the access gate for information on road opening times. Access by foot, bicycle, or horseback is permitted at any time. The road leading into the Riddle Brothers Ranch can be rough, particularly during wet conditions, and high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended.
To reach the Riddle Brothers Ranch, travel from Burns, Oregon, southeast on State Highway 78 for approximately two miles. Turn right onto State Highway 205 and continue south for 60 miles to Frenchglen. Proceed on 205 through Frenchglen and up "P" Hill, then travel approximately 10 miles before turning left onto the Steens Mountain Loop Road south entrance. The turn-off to the Riddle Brothers Ranch is located approximately 20 miles from Highway 205.