Sanderson, Texas – The Town Too Mean For Bean
Sanderson, Texas, a resilient community nestled within the rugged landscape of Terrell County, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West. Located along a scenic stretch of the historic Pecos Trail and U.S. Highway 90, this town, proudly known as the Cactus Capital of Texas and the Eastgate to the Big Bend Wilderness Area, offers a glimpse into a rich and colorful past. Despite its relatively small size, Sanderson, Texas, is the heart of Terrell County, serving as its county seat and home to a majority of its residents. Positioned strategically midway between the bustling cities of San Antonio and El Paso, its history is etched into the very fabric of its surviving historic buildings.
The story of Sanderson, Texas, is inextricably linked to the iron horse. Like many settlements in the region, its genesis lies in the ambitious construction of the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad. In 1881, railroad surveyors arrived at the site of what would become Sanderson. At that time, the area was sparsely populated, inhabited only by a handful of pioneering sheep ranchers who eked out a living from the harsh land.
Initially, the settlement was christened Strobridge, in honor of James H. Strobridge, the president of the transcontinental railroad construction company. Ambitious plans designated Strobridge as the meeting point where rail-laying crews from San Antonio and El Paso would converge. However, due to unforeseen delays encountered in the challenging canyon country east of the fledgling town, the ceremonial silver spike was driven much further east, near the community of Shumla, Texas.
One of the first individuals to recognize the potential of the burgeoning railroad town was a shrewd entrepreneur named Charlie Wilson. He established a saloon near the planned railroad terminal, a venture he aptly named the Cottage Bar Saloon. Demonstrating both foresight and ambition, Wilson acquired all the land that would eventually form the townsite of Sanderson, Texas. However, Wilson’s early success attracted competition. The infamous Roy Bean, with his own aspirations of capitalizing on the influx of railroad workers, set up a rival saloon. A clash was inevitable. Wilson, resorting to a dose of frontier justice, reportedly spiked Bean’s whiskey with "coal oil," rendering it unpalatable. Bean, undeterred, soon packed his bags and moved eastward, eventually establishing his legendary presence in Vinegarroon and Langtry. Wilson’s decisive action in driving off his competitor would forever etch a colorful epithet into the town’s history, earning Sanderson, Texas the memorable moniker: "The Town Too Mean for Bean."
As the sole landowner, save for the railroad company, "Uncle Charlie," as Wilson was affectionately known, wasted no time in developing the nascent town. Beyond operating the only saloon, he became the town’s first real estate developer, selling plots of land to prospective business owners and homeowners. His generosity and civic-mindedness soon cemented his reputation as a community philanthropist, donating money and land to numerous worthy causes.
In 1882, with the construction of a roundhouse, the town’s name was officially changed to Sanderson, a tribute to Joseph P. Sanderson, the engineer who oversaw the construction project. Following the Southern Pacific Railroad’s acquisition of an interest in the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad, the iconic Sanderson depot was built in the fall of 1882. Constructed according to Southern Pacific Railroad standards, it shared architectural similarities with other depots across the Western states. Initially, the depot stretched approximately 130 feet in length, with equal extensions flanking the central two-story depot master’s residence. The east end housed a lunchroom, affectionately known as the "Beanery," while the west end served as a freight warehouse. The railroad became a significant employer in Sanderson, Texas, supporting hundreds of workers and establishing a sprawling rail yard with 13 tracks.
Complementing the railroad’s influence, the local cattle and sheep ranching industries experienced substantial growth, transforming Sanderson into a vital shipping point. In 1883, the burgeoning community received a post office, solidifying its status as a legitimate town. In its early days, like many other frontier settlements, Sanderson was a rough-and-tumble place, characterized by the boisterous presence of railroad workers and cowboys.
A significant turning point in the history of Sanderson, Texas occurred in 1905, when the Texas Legislature created Terrell County, carving out approximately 1,500,000 acres from Pecos County. A county election resulted in Sanderson being designated as the County Seat, which spurred economic growth. The town quickly developed a vibrant commercial district, boasting numerous hotels, a drugstore, a doctor’s office, a vaudeville theater, and the imposing three-story brick Kerr Mercantile building.
The Terrell County Courthouse, an enduring symbol of local governance, was also constructed in 1905. It was later remodeled in a Spanish Colonial style in 1930. Still in use today, it stands proudly between 1st and 2nd Streets and Hackberry and Mansfield Streets.
By 1910, the railroad was thriving, and a 50-foot extension was added to the west end of the depot. This expansion created a new passenger ticketing and waiting room area, a baggage handling facility, a Railway Express Agency office, a Western Union telegraph office, and a distinctive bump-out bay window for the station operators to observe oncoming trains.
A much larger freight house was also erected east of the depot to accommodate the immense shipments of wool and mohair, which formed the backbone of Sanderson’s economy for many years. As locomotives evolved, becoming more powerful, larger, and longer, the roundhouse was extended to the front to accommodate the bigger engines. The facility could handle most repairs, with the exception of major overhauls.
With the rise in popularity of automobiles, the old San Antonio-El Paso Road, historically used by soldiers, wagons, and westward-bound emigrants, was transformed into an "auto highway." In 1922, it was designated as Texas State Highway #3 and later as U.S. Highway 90, the main "coast-to-coast" route through the area. This development led to the proliferation of services in Sanderson, Texas, including gas stations, restaurants, and lodging facilities, catering to the needs of countless travelers heading east or west.
Over the years, Terrell County became a prominent producer of sheep, wool and mohair. In 1926, one of the most significant lamb sales in history took place in Sanderson, with 11,000 lambs averaging $6 per head. The Sanderson Wool Commission also played a vital role, selling thousands of pounds of wool and mohair annually.
The community continued to flourish, reaching its peak population of approximately 3,000 residents in the 1950s. However, the town’s fortunes took a turn in the following decades, influenced by a series of unfortunate events. On June 11, 1965, Sanderson suffered a devastating flash flood. A wall of water surged down Sanderson Canyon into the town, destroying numerous homes and businesses, washing out highway bridges and railroad tracks, and claiming the lives of 27 people. In response, 11 flood-control dams were constructed to protect the city from future catastrophes. Although the town slowly recovered from the tragic loss, the population never fully rebounded.
In 1970, the Southern Pacific Railroad transferred passenger operations to the newly formed Amtrak. By this time, the Southern Pacific had scaled back its operations to a minimum, focusing primarily on freight services.
Another setback occurred with the completion of Interstate Highway 10 through Texas in the 1970s. Prior to this, U.S. Highway 90, which passed directly through Sanderson, Texas, served as the primary route for travel between the east and west coasts.
Adding to the town’s challenges, the Southern Pacific Railroad relocated its crew base from the Sanderson terminal to Alpine in 1995, resulting in the departure of numerous families from the community. The following year, the Southern Pacific Railroad was acquired by Union Pacific Railroad, leading to the relocation of all operations to Alpine. The depot was closed, and all maintenance was halted. Abandoned, the historic building became a target for vandalism and theft, with fixtures and furnishings, including lighting and plumbing, being stolen. While Amtrak continues to make stops in Sanderson, no passenger facilities are provided.
The depot, located on Downie Street, faced demolition in 2011. A local organization was formed to save it; however, adequate funds could not be raised. It was demolished in October 2012.
Today, Sanderson, Texas remains the county seat of Terrell County, committed to preserving its heritage while offering modern amenities and services to its residents and visitors. Despite its current population of approximately 900 people, the town boasts a picturesque setting amidst beautiful canyons and enjoys a pleasant climate throughout the year.
Progress is being driven through preservation efforts, rural technology initiatives, increased recreational facilities, and infrastructure improvements. The small town is also known for its quality public schools, low crime rates, and affordable cost of living. Visitors to Sanderson can explore the Terrell County Memorial Museum, which features railroad memorabilia, cowboy and ranching relics, tools and pioneer furnishings, and mementos of Terrell County history. The Terrell County Visitor Center provides information about Sanderson, Terrell County, and the Big Bend National Park and Wilderness Area. Walking and Windshield Tours begin and end at the Visitor Center, providing an immersive experience for those eager to discover the hidden gems of this resilient West Texas town.