Silverton, Colorado – High in the San Juans – Legends of America
Nestled high within the rugged embrace of the San Juan Mountains, at an impressive elevation of 9,318 feet, lies Silverton, Colorado. This former silver mining camp, steeped in history and surrounded by breathtaking landscapes, offers a captivating glimpse into the American West’s rich past.
Echoes of the Ute: A Land Before Settlers
Long before the arrival of European settlers, the Ute Indians called this region home. Their presence stretched across a vast territory, encompassing eastern Utah, northern New Mexico, and the expanse of Colorado. While Spanish explorers ventured into eastern Colorado, they largely avoided the western reaches, deterred by the Ute’s fierce defense of their land. This dynamic shifted when the Spanish governor of New Mexico, Vélez Cachupín, successfully forged a peace agreement with the Ute of western Colorado. This pivotal moment paved the way for Spanish expeditions northward, led by Juan Antonio María de Rivera, resulting in the establishment of trails through the area. The Spanish also introduced horses to the Ute, revolutionizing their mobility and way of life.
As the 1800s dawned, American fur traders and explorers began to navigate the region, encountering similar resistance from the Ute. However, in August 1860, a group of prospectors under the leadership of Captain Charles Baker ventured into the western San Juan Mountains. Their discovery of placer gold traces along the Animas River, in what would later be known as "Baker’s Park," marked a turning point in the area’s history.
The Ute Indians, who had been granted control of the region by a U.S. Treaty, forced the miners out of the area in 1861. One member of the group described the area as "the highest, roughest, broadest, and most abrupt of all the ranges."
News of the gold discovery spread quickly, but with the Civil War looming and the fact that the land belonged to the Ute tribe, white settlers did not immediately return. However, that changed when prospectors found lode gold in the Little Giant vein at Arrastra Gulch, four miles east of Silverton, in 1872. At that time, miners returned in large numbers, defying the government’s treaties and trespassing into Indian lands.
In August 1873, George Howard and R.J. McNutt discovered the Sunnyside silver vein along Hurricane Peak. Before long, as many as 1,000 prospectors worked in the high country of the San Juan Mountains. The federal government came under pressure from both sides and ordered the miners to leave, but instead, they continued to come.
In September 1873, American officials met with Chief Ouray of the Ute Indians to finalize another treaty made with the Ute. The Brunot Treaty gave up four million acres and placed the tribe on a reservation. This opened the San Juan Mountains to white settlement, at which time numerous miners and settlers came to the area. By the end of the year, nearly 4,000 claims had been staked.
Silverton Takes Root: A Town Forged in Mining
Silverton, Howardsville, and Eureka emerged as the initial settlements, catering to the needs of the miners who toiled in the surrounding mountains. During these formative years, access to these towns was arduous, requiring a challenging journey over the 12,500-foot Stony Pass after ascending the Rio Grande from Del Norte. Yet, the miners persevered, drawn by the promise of riches.
The Town of Silverton was established in Baker’s Park in 1874, and Francis Marion Snowden built the first log cabin. The town was officially organized in September, and a townsite was laid out. With its central location at the confluence of several streams, the new town quickly became the center of numerous mining camps and stole the county seat from Howardsville. At first, the town was comprised mostly of tents, log cabins, and wooden structures. But, these were soon replaced by more permanent buildings lining Greene Street (Main Street). A sawmill and smelter were built, and the first newspaper, the La Plata Miner, began in 1875.
The Railroad Arrives: A Boom is Ignited
The main problem for Silverton and the surrounding mining camps in the early years was its remoteness. Its mining operations would not really be tapped until the coming of the railroad. In 1874 the district produced less than $15,000 in ore, all of which had to be exported out on donkeys. In 1876, the Animas Canyon Toll Road Company began building a 32-mile thoroughfare on the Animas River’s east side to connect Silverton miners with Animas City resources.
The Congregational Church was built in 1878. The church, which stands at the corner of Reese and 11th Streets, continues to serve a congregation today.
In 1879, the town established a hook and ladder company whose fire truck had been hauled over the steep Stony Pass. The Animas Canyon Toll Road increased the number of people living in Silverton, and the town boasted about 1,000 people by 1880. By September of that year, William Jackson Palmer’s Denver & Rio Grande Railway established the town of Durango, and tracks reached the new town in July 1881. Almost immediately, workers started on the final 45-mile stretch to Silverton, using parts of the Animas River wagon road for the railroad’s route.
Silverton, like so many other mining camps, was turbulent and sometimes prone to violence and wicked ways during these growing days. On August 24, 1881, the notorious Stockton Gang had made their way to town. With warrants on their heads, Marshal David Clayton “Clate” Ogsbury attempted to serve a warrant for their arrests, and the gang killed him. Two of the gang members were later captured and lynched by vigilantes.
The arrival of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway in 1882 marked a pivotal moment for Silverton. On July 8th, the first train steamed into town, followed by the commencement of passenger service on July 11th. This momentous occasion sparked a jubilant celebration that reverberated for days. The railroad’s arrival ushered in a new era of prosperity for Silverton and San Juan County, triggering a mining boom that would endure for three decades.
By 1883, the district’s mining production quadrupled to $400,000, and Silverton boasted of a population of 2,000 people. It also had 400 buildings, including two banks, five laundries, 29 saloons, several hotels, and a bawdy a “red light district” occupied Blair Street. One of these many buildings included the Grand Hotel, which later became the Grand Imperial Hotel, which had its grand opening that year. It is still in operation today.
A Town of Two Sides: Decadence and Respectability
From its inception, Silverton’s residents had an unspoken agreement, dividing Greene Street into two distinct realms: the "respectable" west side and the more "decadent" east side. Blair Street, the heart of the town’s underbelly, was a vibrant tapestry of saloons, variety theaters, dance halls, bordellos, "cribs," and boarding houses.
This coexistence was largely accepted, as prostitution and gambling fueled the town’s economic engine. Prostitutes were required to contribute a monthly fee of $5. However, in May of 1883, a grand jury issued 117 indictments against "lewd women," highlighting the complex moral fabric of the community.
In 1883, the legendary lawman Wyatt Earp briefly resided in Silverton, dealing cards at the Arlington Saloon. He departed in April, accompanied by Bat Masterson and Doc Holliday, to aid their friend Luke Short in a dispute in Dodge City, Kansas, an event known as the Dodge City War.
Mears and the Million Dollar Highway: Transportation Evolves
In 1885, Otto Mears, renowned for his extensive network of toll roads in southwestern Colorado, completed his masterpiece: the predecessor to the "Million Dollar Highway" connecting Silverton and Ouray. This rugged route followed the Uncompahgre River gorge, traversed Red Mountain, and clung to narrow ledges high above the canyon floor. That same year, Silverton was officially incorporated, and the San Juan Mining District generated an impressive $1 million in ore.
Silverton further solidified its position as the region’s transportation hub with the construction of three short narrow-gauge lines that linked outlying mines to the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. These included the Silverton Railroad, the Silverton, Gladstone & Northerly, and the Silverton Northern.
In the mid-1880s, Bat Masterson returned to Silverton at the request of the town council to restore order. His reputation alone was enough to deter most troublemakers, and he reportedly left a bullet hole in the Grand Imperial Hotel’s back bar.
From Silver to Gold: Adapting to Change
In the 1890s, the San Juan Mining District produced over $2 million in ore annually, and Silverton became more "civilized," establishing fraternal lodges and a literary society.
Newspapers reported that mining operations were so prolific in 1890-91 that the railroad struggled to keep pace. This surge was due to advancements in mining machinery, the establishment of concentration and reduction plants, and the construction of aerial tramways.
However, the repeal of the Sherman Silver Purchase Act in 1893 triggered a devastating depression for silver mines across Colorado. Ten large mines in Silverton were forced to close, and many never recovered. Gold emerged as the new focus, aided by new extraction technologies.
Enduring Legacy: Silverton Today
The town of Silverton was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1961 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1966. Its isolation, distance from major population centers, and high altitude have contributed to its remarkable preservation. The district boasts a collection of historic buildings, primarily constructed between 1882 and 1910 during Silverton’s boomtown years. The Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad and the Mayflower Mill have also earned National Historic Landmark status.
Silverton’s historic buildings include:
- Ye Old Livery: Built in 1897, this building once housed the Silverton Transfer Company and now serves as a florist and gift shop.
- Grand Imperial Hotel: This three-story, 40-room hotel, which opened in 1882, is renowned for its ornate gingerbread detailing and hand-carved rosewood bar.
- Posey and Wingate Building: Constructed in 1880, this building is the oldest commercial structure in western Colorado.
- Benson Block: Built in 1901, this building once housed the County Club saloon and now houses the Benson Lodge.
- Teller House: Constructed in 1896, this building has served as a hotel and saloon and continues to welcome guests.
- Silverton Town Hall: Erected in 1907, this building features a silver bell tower and was meticulously restored after a fire in 1991.
- San Juan County Courthouse: This beautiful building, constructed in 1907, continues to serve as the county courthouse.
- Blair Street: Two blocks of former saloons and sporting houses serve as reminders of the town’s more colorful past.
- Hillside Cemetery: This cemetery, located on Boulder Mountain, offers a glimpse into the lives of Silverton’s past residents.
- San Juan County Historical Society Museum and Mining Heritage Center: Located in the 1902 San Juan County Jail, this museum showcases the area’s mining history.
The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is the most popular attraction. This historic train has operated continuously since 1882, transporting passengers through the stunning Animas River canyon.
Outside of Silverton, the landscape is dotted with remnants of the mining era, including the Old Hundred Gold Mine and the Mayflower Gold Mill.
Silverton, Colorado, a town steeped in history and surrounded by unparalleled natural beauty, invites visitors to step back in time and experience the allure of the American West.