Springfield, Missouri – Queen City of the Ozarks
Springfield, Missouri, nestled in the southwestern reaches of the state, stands as a testament to the interwoven tapestry of American history. As the county seat of Greene County and the third-largest city in Missouri, it carries the proud titles of "Queen City of the Ozarks" and "Birthplace of Route 66." This vibrant city is more than just a geographical location; it’s a living museum, echoing with the stories of Native Americans, the clashes of the Civil War, and the rise of the iconic Mother Road.
The narrative of Springfield begins long before its official establishment, in a land shaped by the presence of indigenous peoples. While the Delaware, Kickapoo, and Osage tribes held dominion over the area, the allure of the Ozark landscape drew settlers even before Missouri achieved statehood in 1821. These early pioneers, driven by dreams of prosperity and new beginnings, began to carve out their lives in the fertile lands of Greene County. However, this period of coexistence was tragically short-lived. In 1830, the U.S. Government enacted a policy of forced removal, displacing the Native American tribes to reservations in Kansas. This act opened Greene County to a surge of settlement, forever altering the region’s cultural landscape.
On January 2, 1833, Greene County was formally established, named in honor of Nathaniel Greene, a distinguished hero of the Revolutionary War. This marked a turning point, ushering in an era of rapid growth and development. Small settlements began to dot the landscape, each with its own unique identity and aspirations. Among these burgeoning communities, Springfield emerged as the most prominent, a testament to the vision and determination of its founder, John Polk Campbell.
Campbell, a pioneer from Tennessee, arrived in 1829 and discovered a pristine natural spring flowing into a small stream at the base of a wooded hill. Recognizing the potential of this location, he staked his claim by carving his initials into a nearby tree. After returning to Tennessee to gather his family, he returned in March 1830, ready to transform his vision into reality. The city’s first commercial venture was Junius Campbell’s store at the intersection of Olive Street and Jefferson Avenue in 1831. Soon, other settlers arrived, transforming the area into a bustling log cabin settlement, complete with stores, mills, a school, a post office, and other essential businesses.
In 1835, John Campbell formalized the town’s layout by donating 50 acres for the construction of the county seat. This act solidified Springfield’s position as the heart of Greene County. Two years later, a two-story brick structure was erected in the center of the public square, serving as the city’s first courthouse. This building became a symbol of Springfield’s growing importance and its commitment to civic governance. In 1838, the town achieved another milestone when it was officially incorporated, marking its transition from a frontier settlement to a recognized municipality.
The mid-19th century witnessed further advancements for Springfield, Missouri. In 1858, the city became a crucial stop on the Butterfield Overland Mail stagecoach line, which stretched from Tipton, Missouri, to San Francisco, California. This connection to a vital transportation network brought an influx of people and commerce to the area, further fueling its growth. By this time, the town boasted a population of approximately 1,200 residents and offered a range of amenities, including three hotels, two newspapers, three churches, five schools, a bank, and several retail businesses. The future of Springfield, Missouri appeared bright, full of promise and potential.
However, the looming shadow of the Civil War would soon cast a pall over the city’s prosperity. Missouri found itself deeply divided between Union and Confederate sympathies, turning neighbor against neighbor. The first major conflict in the region, the Battle of Wilson’s Creek, erupted just 12 miles southwest of Springfield, Missouri on August 10, 1861. This battle marked the first significant Civil War engagement west of the Mississippi River, involving approximately 5,400 Union troops and 12,000 Confederate soldiers. The clash was also one of the bloodiest of the war, resulting in over 1,317 Union and 1,230 Confederate casualties. Although the Confederates emerged victorious, they failed to capitalize on their success, leaving the city in a state of uncertainty.
Two years later, on January 7-8, 1863, Springfield, Missouri became the epicenter of another Civil War conflict, known as the Battle of Springfield. Confederate General John Marmaduke launched an attack in an attempt to seize the city and its military stores. Despite the loss of over 100 lives, the Union forces successfully repelled the attack, preventing the city from falling into Confederate hands. The Civil War era was a time of immense hardship and upheaval for Springfield. Many residents fled the city during the turmoil, but after the war’s conclusion, many returned, eager to rebuild their lives and their community.
Despite not being considered one of the most notorious Wild West towns, Springfield holds its own piece of gunfighter lore. On July 21, 1865, the legendary James "Wild Bill" Hickok fatally shot Dave Tutt, an Arkansas man, in a street duel. The dispute stemmed from a poker game the previous night, where Tutt had won Hickok’s pocket watch. Although Wild Bill was arrested, he was later acquitted of murder, adding a touch of Wild West drama to the city’s history.
The arrival of the St. Louis and San Francisco Railroad in 1870 marked a turning point in Springfield’s economic fortunes. The railway provided crucial transportation links, facilitating trade and commerce and further stimulating the city’s growth. By 1878, over 150 businesses thrived in Springfield, leading to its recognition as the "Queen City of the Ozarks," a title that reflected its growing importance and prosperity.
The late 19th century witnessed further industrial development in Springfield. In 1880, a woolen mill produced 1,500 yards of cloth daily, cotton mills transformed 1,000 bales of cotton into fabrics annually, and mills ground 200 barrels of flour per day. These industries contributed to the city’s economic diversification and created employment opportunities for its residents.
In 1887, Springfield became one of the first cities in the nation to adopt an electric trolley system. The trolley lines rapidly expanded, connecting various parts of the city and transforming transportation. Riding the streetcar became not only a practical means of getting around but also a popular form of entertainment. The last streetcar made its final run in 1937, marking the end of an era in Springfield’s transportation history. By the turn of the century, Springfield’s population had reached approximately 23,000 residents, a testament to its continued growth and appeal.
The early 20th century brought new opportunities and challenges to Springfield, Missouri. By 1923, the city boasted 148 miles of streets, 60 of which were paved. This infrastructure development paved the way for a transformative event in the city’s history: the arrival of Route 66. John T. Woodruff of Springfield and Cyrus Avery of Tulsa, Oklahoma, championed the creation of a transcontinental highway, and Springfield’s strategic location made it a natural choice for the route.
Woodruff and Avery tirelessly advocated for a highway that would connect Chicago, Illinois, to Los Angeles, California, catering to America’s burgeoning "Mobility Nobility." Their persistence paid off, and Route 66 became a reality in 1926. This iconic highway transformed Springfield into a vital transportation hub, further boosting its population and economic growth.
John Thomas Woodruff played a pivotal role in promoting Route 66 in Missouri. As an attorney for the Frisco Railroad in Springfield, he was instrumental in developing various businesses in the city, including the hospital, fairgrounds, and golf course. He also influenced the development of Powersite, Norfork, and Bagnell Dams, leaving a lasting impact on the region’s infrastructure.
Woodruff also constructed several notable buildings, including the Woodruff business building, which still stands today, and the Sansone, Colonial, and Kentwood Arms hotels. Only the Kentwood Arms, built in 1926, remains, currently owned by Southwest Missouri State University and used as a dormitory called Kentwood Hall.
With the arrival of Route 66, motor courts, gas stations, diners, and cafes sprang up along the highway to cater to the needs of travelers. Billboards and neon signs adorned the landscape, creating a vibrant and memorable experience for those journeying along the Mother Road. By 1940, Springfield’s population had surpassed 60,000. The rapid industrial growth that followed propelled the city’s population to over 100,000 by 1960.
Today, Springfield is a modern city, yet the legacy of Route 66 remains palpable. While the city has undergone significant growth since the highway’s heyday, remnants of the Mother Road can still be found. Two routes traverse Springfield: the primary Route 66, accessible by exiting I-44 at Kearney Street and heading west, and City 66, which begins at Glenstone, turning south to St. Louis Street/College St. The latter route leads to the town square, where travelers veer right onto College Street to the Chestnut Expressway, eventually connecting to Missouri Highway 266.
The journey through Springfield, Missouri along Route 66 offers glimpses into the past. Along the way, travelers encounter the site of the long-abandoned Sunset Drive-in Theater, where the sign still stands as a nostalgic reminder. Further down the highway, the remains of an old motor court can be seen on the north side, and a few miles beyond lies the Rest Haven Court, one of the few original Route 66 motels still operating in Springfield today.
Traveling along Glenstone on City 66 and turning onto St. Louis St, visitors can find one of the older Steak ‘n’ Shakes from 1962, complete with its shiny chrome and vintage sign. This Springfield location is unique because it has largely retained its original design, from the building to the curb service window. It is said to be one of only two surviving Steak ‘n’ Shakes with the 1950s/60s era design and was added to the National Register of Historic Places on August 1, 2012.
Downtown Springfield boasts numerous historic buildings, including the Woodruff Building and the reportedly haunted Landers Theatre. The Gillioz Theatre, which opened on October 12, 1926, just one day after Route 66 was named, was completely renovated in 2006 and stands as a testament to the city’s architectural heritage.
As travelers continue west of the square on the old road, they will encounter the pristine Melinda Court, which still serves travelers of the Mother Road today. The Wishing Well Motor Inn, another vintage motel, lies a bit further along the route.
While few vintage icons remain in a city that has grown rapidly since the birth and subsequent decommissioning of Route 66, Springfield holds a special place in the highway’s history as the home of co-founder John T. Woodruff.
In 2014, groundbreaking took place for a new Route 66 Roadside Park on West College Street, between Fort and Broadway, as a tribute to Springfield’s designation as the Birthplace of Route 66.
Today, Springfield’s population is approximately 168,000. Nestled in the rolling hills of southwest Missouri, the city offers a wide range of amenities to visitors, including museums, nightlife, culture, and a rich history.
If you’re heading west on the Mother Road, continue on a ghost town stretch through Halltown, Paris Springs Junction, and Spencer for more glimpses of the vintage road.