Storing an RV

[Editor’s note: This article was originally written in the early 2000s, but the information remains a valuable reference for RV owners today.]

The open road calls, but sometimes life dictates that your recreational vehicle (RV), tow vehicle, or "toad" (a vehicle towed behind an RV) must sit idle for extended periods. Whether it’s a few months or a year or more, proper storage is crucial to prevent costly damage and ensure a smooth return to your adventures. Successfully storing an RV involves more than just parking it and hoping for the best. It requires a systematic approach, attention to detail, and a willingness to debunk common myths.

One widespread misconception is that periodically starting the engine and letting it run will keep everything in good condition. This couldn’t be further from the truth.

The Myth of "Exercising" the Engine:

The belief that starting an engine every couple of weeks to "top off" batteries and "exercise" the engine is a recipe for wear and tear.

The Reality:

Engines don’t benefit from short, infrequent runs. Starting an engine without bringing it up to full operating temperature can actually cause more harm than good. The engine and transmission experience unnecessary stress. Unless you’re prepared to move the vehicle a minimum of 30 yards forward and backward, as dealerships do (and even they only do it every few months), avoid starting it at all. Furthermore, using the engine to "top off" batteries is inefficient and causes needless engine wear. Your starting battery will likely reach full charge within minutes, while house batteries may not charge significantly at all. Proper battery maintenance requires a digital multimeter and a knowledge of electrical systems, something a caretaker may not possess.

Finding the Right Parking Spot:

Location, location, location! Ideally, you want your RV close by for easy monitoring, perhaps in your backyard. However, this isn’t always feasible. Explore commercial storage facilities, but be aware that these can be expensive. Consider reaching out to local farms and ranches. They may have covered barns or sheds available for rent at a more reasonable price, and the farmer might even agree to act as a caretaker. Protecting your RV from the elements, especially hail, is crucial.

When storing an RV, finding a level parking spot is important, but there’s a nuance to consider. Over time, fuel tends to "migrate" towards the lower end of a parked vehicle, potentially saturating emission canisters. If your fuel tank is relatively full, slightly elevate the front end of the RV by a few inches (4-6 inches is a good benchmark) to prevent this issue.

Avoid using hydraulic leveling jacks during long-term storage. These jacks are prone to leaking over time. Even worse, they can become "stuck" in position, making it difficult to retract them when you’re ready to hit the road again.

While RV covers are marketed as a protective solution, they often do more harm than good. Many covers end up shredded and lying on the ground. Even intact covers can trap moisture and provide nesting grounds for wasps, squirrels, and birds. The unpleasant surprise of unwrapping your RV after months of storage to find a collection of unwanted guests is best avoided.

Battery Care: Keeping the Power Alive:

Proper battery maintenance is essential during storing an RV. Invest in an automatic automotive battery charger with a 10-amp capacity. These chargers are inexpensive and readily available at any auto parts store.

1. Charge the Starting Battery: Connect the charger to the starting battery and bring it to a full charge.
2. Charge the House Batteries: Once the starting battery is fully charged, connect the charger to the house batteries and repeat the process.
3. Avoid Simultaneous Charging: Do not attempt to charge the starting battery and house batteries simultaneously, as this can damage the charging system.
4. Charging Frequency: The frequency of charging depends on the ambient temperature. As a general rule:
   • Below 40°F: Charge every 6 months.
   • 40-60°F: Charge every 2 months.
   • 60°F or higher: Charge every month.
   • Never charge a battery with ice inside.

These guidelines assume that the batteries are in good condition, fully charged when storing an RV, the water level is correct, and no devices within the RV are drawing power.

Be mindful of "phantom loads" – devices that continue to draw power even when turned off. These include:

• TV antenna boosters
• Digital clocks
• 12V TVs and radios (memory functions for preset stations)
• Refrigerators (circuit boards in some models)

Ensure the "kill switch" (if your RV has one) is in the correct position to disconnect the batteries. Automatic gas shut-off valves can also consume a significant amount of battery power. The best way to eliminate these phantom loads is to pull the appropriate fuses.

Do not rely on your RV converter as a battery charger unless it has a user-adjustable, multi-stage charging system. Standard RV converters can either overcharge and damage your batteries or fail to charge them fully. If you have old, inexpensive RV batteries, it may be more economical to remove them or let them sit without charging and replace them upon your return.

A digital voltmeter is a valuable tool for monitoring battery health. A basic model that reads to one decimal point is sufficient, but a meter that reads voltage to two decimal points (a 3½-digit meter) and measures up to 20 amps of current is even better. As long as the batteries read 12.6 VDC with nothing turned on, charging is not needed, except according to the "topping off" schedule above (if at all).

Water System Winterization: Preventing Freeze Damage:

Water damage is a major concern when storing an RV during cold weather.

1. Drain the Fresh Water Tank: While completely draining the tank is difficult, a mostly-drained tank is less likely to freeze and burst. Many fresh water tanks have an access port on top. Remove the plug and cover the hole with a screen to allow any remaining water to evaporate. If the tank is stored in a warm environment, algae and crud may develop. This can be treated and flushed with RV tank freshener upon your return.
2. Disconnect the Water Pump: Disconnect the pump line to ensure the pump isn’t filled with water, which can freeze and damage it. Water left in the pump can also promote algae growth.
3. Drain the Water Heater: Attach a "blow out" plug (available at any RV store) with a tire-filler-type air valve (Schrader valve) to the RV’s city water input. Open faucet handles one at a time, turn on compressed air, and let water and debris blow out of the lines. Be prepared for a surprising amount of sediment to emerge. Open the next faucet slightly before fully closing the previous one. Repeat the process for all faucets. Caution: Do not close all faucets and allow air pressure to build up, as this could damage the water lines.

Waste Water Tanks: Preparing for Odor-Free Storage:

1. Dump and Rinse: Thoroughly dump and rinse the black and gray water tanks. While meticulous cleaning isn’t necessary, remove as much waste as possible.
2. Close Valves: Close the tank valves tightly.
3. Clean and Lubricate Valves: Before closing the valves for the final time, clean them thoroughly and apply a coat of silicone grease to the "O" rings and seals. This prevents sticking and leaks when you resume using the tanks.

Propane System: Shutting Down Safely:

Turn off the propane at the tank valve. Ensure the auto-safety shutoff isn’t activated, as this can draw electricity. Consider wrapping the regulator in mesh or screen to prevent insects, especially spiders, from building nests in the vent hole.

Toilet: Protecting the Seals:

You can fill the toilet bowl with water to keep the seals lubricated, but the water will evaporate over time. A more effective method is to clean the seal thoroughly and coat it with plumber’s silicone grease. Vaseline can also be used, but it is not as effective.

Shower and Sink Drains: Preventing Odors:

The water in shower and sink drains will evaporate, leading to unpleasant odors. Pour an ounce of cooking oil slowly into each drain to prevent evaporation.

Tires and Underside: Protecting from the Elements and Pests:

Inflate tires to the recommended pressure and cover them to protect the sidewalls from sun damage. If the tires are in poor condition, consider replacing them before storage. Avoid completely wrapping the tires, as this can create a haven for critters.

Sprinkle a generous amount of cleanser or ant killer around anything touching the ground to deter ants and other insects. Reapply the ant killer after rain or snow.

Seal any holes on the underside of the RV with stainless steel wool or aluminum duct tape to prevent rodents from entering.

Fuel System: Preventing Sludge and Varnish:

Proper fuel system preparation is crucial for preventing problems upon your return from storing an RV.

1. Empty the Tank: Before storing an RV, run the fuel tank nearly empty.
2. Add Fuel Stabilizer: Purchase a fuel stabilizer such as "Stor-Gas" (for gasoline engines) or a diesel fuel stabilizer (for diesel engines) from an auto parts store. Avoid using alcohol-based additives, as these can damage the fuel system. Consult with a "John Deere" store for proper chemical for diesel engine.
3. Follow Instructions: Read the label carefully to determine the correct amount of stabilizer for your tank size.
4. Add Stabilizer and Fill Tank: On your last drive before storage, pour the stabilizer into the tank and fill it with fresh fuel. This ensures the stabilizer permeates the entire fuel system.

This process prevents the gasoline from turning into a sludgy varnish, a common problem in stored vehicles.

Engine: Internal Protection:

Assuming you’ve already serviced the transmission (including fluid change), lubricated the chassis, and changed the oil and filter before storing an RV, the following steps will further protect the engine.

• For storage periods exceeding six months, consider adding "Marvel Mystery Oil" to the cylinders. With the engine idling and the air cleaner removed, slowly pour the oil into the carburetor bores or throttle body air inlet until the engine stalls. Do not restart the engine. This coats the cylinders and valve train with a protective layer of oil.

• Cover the air cleaner with a screen or aluminum foil secured with aluminum duct tape to prevent critters from entering the filter element. Mothballs are sometimes used as a deterrent, but their effectiveness is questionable. In rodent-infested areas, additional precautions may be necessary to protect wiring and hoses.

Removing from Storage:

When the time comes to retrieve your RV from storage, carefully reverse the steps outlined above. Inspect all systems thoroughly before embarking on your next adventure.

By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your RV is well-protected during storage, allowing you to enjoy many more years of carefree travel.