Terlingua – Best Ghost Town in Texas
Nestled between the rugged beauty of Big Bend National Park and the expansive landscapes of Big Bend Ranch State Park in southwest Texas, lies Terlingua, a place where history whispers on the wind and the remnants of a bygone era stand as silent sentinels. More than just a collection of crumbling buildings, Terlingua is the most visited ghost town in Texas, a testament to the enduring allure of the American West and a poignant reminder of the boom-and-bust cycles that shaped its character.
The name "Terlingua" itself carries a hint of mystery, its origins rooted in the Spanish language. Deriving from the words tres and lenguas, meaning "three tongues," the name’s significance remains a subject of local debate. Some believe it refers to the three languages – English, Spanish, and Native American dialects – spoken in the region during its formative years. Others contend that the "three tongues" allude to the three forks of Terlingua Creek, a vital source of water in this arid land. Regardless of its precise etymology, the name evokes a sense of cultural confluence and the rugged geography that defines this unique corner of Texas.
The story of Terlingua begins with a small Mexican village situated along Terlingua Creek, a few miles upstream from its confluence with the Rio Grande. For generations, the area remained a relatively isolated outpost, its inhabitants eking out a living in the harsh desert environment. However, the discovery of cinnabar in the mid-1880s would irrevocably alter the fate of this sleepy village. Cinnabar, the ore from which mercury, also known as quicksilver, is extracted, transformed Terlingua from an agrarian settlement into a bustling mining district, drawing prospectors and laborers from far and wide.
The local Native American tribes had long recognized the presence of cinnabar, valuing its vibrant red color for use as a body pigment. Later, Mexican and American prospectors also stumbled upon the mineral wealth hidden beneath the desert surface. However, the remoteness of the area, the scarcity of water, and the ever-present threat of raids by indigenous tribes deterred large-scale mining operations for many years.
As the threat from Native American tribes diminished, small-scale mining operations began to emerge in the late 1880s. These early ventures focused on extracting the rich surface outcroppings of cinnabar ore. Miners employed rudimentary techniques, using burro-drawn carts to transport the ore to collection points where it was hand-sorted. Simple furnaces were then used to heat the ore, causing the mercury to vaporize and condense into its liquid form. The surface ores were so rich that even these primitive methods yielded commercially viable quantities of quicksilver.
In 1884, a local resident named Juan Acosta discovered a significant deposit of cinnabar and partnered with an investor named Klein to develop his claim. However, they eventually sold their interests to a group of entrepreneurs from California, who established one of the first major mining operations in the area, aptly named "California Hill."
Despite these early efforts, significant mining operations were hampered by the lack of an accurate land survey. Once the land was properly surveyed in the summer of 1898, the Marfa and Mariposa Mining Company erected the first large furnace in the district, signaling a new era of industrial-scale mercury extraction.
By the dawn of the 20th century, word of the region’s abundant mercury deposits had spread far and wide. By the spring of 1900, four major producers – Marfa and Mariposa, California Hill, Lindheim & Dewees, and the Excelsior Company – had collectively extracted approximately 1,000 flasks of the valuable liquid metal.
The burgeoning mining activity led to the establishment of a new town near the Marfa and Mariposa Mine. This settlement, also known as Terlingua, quickly eclipsed the original village, which became known as Terlingua Abaja, or lower Terlingua. A post office was established in 1899, further solidifying the town’s status as a regional hub.
An early description of the Terlingua mining camp comes from Stuart T. Penick, a member of a U.S. Geological Survey party, who visited the area in 1902. He described the town as "a sprawling camp of temporary sheds and shelters composed of various kinds of material, such as tin, canvas, old sacks, sticks, and adobe bricks. The only permanent buildings were the commissary and smelter. There were 200-300 Mexican laborers. They seemed temporary, for very few of them had families."
Meanwhile, Howard E. Perry, a Chicago industrialist, saw the potential for profit in the Terlingua mercury boom. In 1887, he had purchased 4.5 sections of land in Brewster County for $5,760. Recognizing the opportunity, he decided to enter the mining industry.
In May 1903, Perry incorporated the Chisos Mining Company, which commenced production that same year. The Chisos Mine would become the largest and most productive mine in the Terlingua district, and for a time, the largest mercury producer in the entire United States. The mine operated for four decades, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape and the lives of the people who lived and worked there.
By 1905, the population of Terlingua at the Marfa and Mariposa Mine had swelled to approximately 1,000 people. Simultaneously, another camp had sprung up around the Chisos Mine, also known as Terlingua. In May 1910, the Marfa and Mariposa Mine’s reserves were depleted, leading to its closure. The post office was then relocated to the "new" Terlingua at the Chisos Mine, located about ten miles to the east.
The Chisos Mining Company exerted considerable control over the "new" town of Terlingua. The company owned and operated virtually everything, including a large general store, a company doctor, the post office, the Chisos Hotel, a commissary, a telephone service (albeit unreliable), a dependable water service, and a school. Later, it added a gasoline station, a theater, and a confectionery shop to its holdings. The town, with a population exceeding 1,000, was divided into two distinct sections – one for Mexican laborers and the other for Anglo workers. Perched atop a hill overlooking the entire camp was a grand mansion built by mine owner Howard Perry in 1906. Although Perry rarely resided in Terlingua, the mansion was expanded in 1911 from one to two stories and boasted nine bedrooms.
Initially, the Chisos Mining Company employed primitive retorts to process the cinnabar ore, extracting the mercury through a simple baking process. As production increased, Perry adopted more industrialized methods, installing a 20-ton Scott Furnace in 1908. Exploration efforts continued, and in 1914, the company discovered one of the richest veins of cinnabar ore in the Terlingua district. This discovery coincided with the outbreak of World War I, which created a surge in military demand for mercury, propelling the Chisos Mining Company into its most prosperous period.
The following year, an even larger and more modern furnace was installed to further increase production capacity. Before the advent of mechanized vehicles in the early 1930s, mule-drawn wagon trains transported the quicksilver to the railroad at Alpine, Texas. During one ten-day period in September 1916, two carloads of quicksilver from the Chisos Mine were shipped from Alpine, with a combined value exceeding $50,000.
Despite his infrequent presence in Terlingua, Howard Perry maintained absolute control over the mine through daily correspondence and a team of loyal administrative staff.
The Chisos Mining Company operated under a veil of secrecy, but it was estimated that by 1934, the company had sold over $12 million worth of mercury. One employee claimed that the company averaged daily profits of $2,000 during the early years of World War I. However, like many mining operations, the boom was not destined to last forever. After 1936, production began to decline, and on October 1, 1942, the Chisos Mining Company filed for bankruptcy. On March 15, 1943, the company was sold to the Texas Railway Equipment Company for $81,000. The mine was then operated as the Esperado Mine through the end of World War II in 1945. After the war, the surface installations were sold for salvage, marking the end of an era.
As the mining industry faded, most residents departed Terlingua, leaving behind a skeletal population of approximately 350 by the late 1940s. The town dwindled to the point where it became a true ghost town, a haunting reminder of its once-vibrant past.
However, Terlingua‘s story did not end there. Its proximity to Big Bend National Park breathed new life into the village in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Tourism brought an influx of visitors eager to explore the region’s natural beauty and delve into its rich history. Growth was slow, but steady. By the mid-1990s, the population had only reached around 25 residents.
Today, Terlingua supports a population of over 250 people and has re-emerged as a popular tourist destination. Visitors flock to the area to enjoy a variety of outdoor activities, including rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking, and motorcycling. Terlingua is also renowned for its annual chili cook-off, and in 1967, it was officially declared the "Chili Capital of the World." The former company store has been transformed into a gift and art shop, river float trips are organized in the former cantina, and a dinner theater now occupies the former motion picture theater. Scattered throughout the area are the evocative ruins of former buildings and abandoned mines, testaments to the town’s colorful and tumultuous past. Located near the Rio Grande, between Lajitas and Study Butte, Texas, Terlingua stands as a unique blend of history, natural beauty, and resilient spirit, making it a compelling destination for those seeking an authentic taste of the American West.