The Battle Against Corsets
The 19th century was a period of significant social and technological change, and within its tapestry of innovations and evolving societal norms, a silent battle raged against a seemingly innocuous garment: the corset. This article delves into the history of this struggle, exploring the corset’s rise to prominence, the reasons for its eventual decline, and the individuals who championed more comfortable and practical clothing for women.
The corset, a foundational element of women’s fashion for centuries, originated in the 16th century. Its primary purpose was to reshape the female form into a more aesthetically "desirable" silhouette. Over time, the idealized shape evolved, but the corset’s function remained constant: to mold and constrain the body. During the latter half of the 19th century, the corset reached the apex of its popularity. Fashion dictated an unnaturally small waist, often achieved through the use of steel or baleen boning, heavy fabrics like coutil or leather, and a complex system of laces tightened at the back. This pursuit of an impossibly tiny waistline had profound implications for women’s health and well-being.
The discomfort and health risks associated with corsets became a focal point for reformers and advocates of rational dress. Critics argued that the pressure exerted by these garments restricted breathing, displaced internal organs, and weakened muscles. The constricting nature of the corset led to fainting spells, digestive problems, and a host of other ailments. The battle against corsets was not merely a matter of comfort; it was a fight for women’s physical and social liberation.
Frances Stuart Parker, a vocal proponent of dress reform, added her voice to the growing chorus of dissent with her 1897 book, Dress and How to Improve It. Parker’s work was a scathing critique of the fashion industry and the designers who prioritized aesthetics over comfort and health. She lamented the fact that women were forced to endure layers of restrictive undergarments, dresses that impeded movement, and shoes that caused agonizing pain, all in the name of fashion. Parker famously wrote, "Could the shoemaker and the dressmaker change the order of creation and give us another body with internal organs rearranged to suit the garments they design, we could go on our wasp-like way rejoicing. As it is, the conventional is utterly at war with the natural, with the inevitable result that our clothing is neither comfortable, graceful nor beautiful." These were daring words for a time when social pressure to conform was intense, and Parker even confessed that her own dressmaker refused to consider her designs for improved dresses because they contradicted the latest Parisian trends. The battle against corsets, therefore, was also a battle against the rigid social expectations that dictated women’s appearance.
Parker’s Dress and How to Improve It was more than just a polemic; it was a practical guide for women who wanted to liberate themselves from the constraints of fashionable dress. The book provided detailed instructions on how to transition away from corsets, restore muscle tone, and create or find more comfortable and practical garments. Parker offered a step-by-step approach, emphasizing the importance of gradual change and physical exercise. She understood that the body, weakened by years of corset use, needed time to adapt and regain its natural strength. The battle against corsets was a gradual process that required commitment and self-care.
One of the key aspects of Parker’s approach was the emphasis on physical culture. She believed that exercise was essential for restoring the body’s natural form and function after years of constriction. Parker recommended breathing exercises, chest weights, and other forms of physical activity to strengthen muscles and improve overall health. She also stressed the importance of listening to the body and avoiding overexertion. The battle against corsets was not just about removing a garment; it was about reclaiming one’s physical well-being.
The ultimate decline of the corset can be attributed to a combination of factors. The rise of the women’s suffrage movement, the changing social roles of women, and the practical demands of World War I all contributed to the garment’s eventual demise. As women entered the workforce and participated more actively in public life, the restrictive nature of the corset became increasingly impractical. Girdles and better-designed brassieres offered more comfortable and functional alternatives, eventually replacing the corset as the foundation of women’s undergarments. While garments referred to as corsets exist today, they are typically worn for fashion purposes rather than for body modification. The modern corset is a far cry from its constricting predecessor, often serving as an outer garment or a decorative element. The battle against corsets, in its original form, had largely been won.
Parker’s personal journey away from corsets began during her time as a student of Professor Lewis B. Monroe, Dean of the Boston University School of Oratory. Monroe, a staunch advocate of physical culture, instilled in his students the importance of unrestrained movement and the connection between body and soul. Inspired by Monroe’s teachings and a lecture by Dr. Helen O’Leary, Parker decided to discard her corset. However, she soon realized that simply removing the corset was not enough. Her skirt band and other layers of clothing continued to restrict her movement and put pressure on her abdomen. This experience highlighted the need for a comprehensive approach to dress reform, one that addressed all aspects of women’s clothing.
Parker detailed the layers of garments women wore in the late 19th century: woolen under-drawers and vest, white muslin drawers, chemise, corset, corset cover, underskirt, bustle, dress-skirt, over-skirt, and basque. These layers, combined with the constricting corset, created a veritable prison for the female body. Parker urged women to consider the "true inwardness" of their constricted waists, to visualize the pressure on their internal organs, and to recognize the detrimental effects of corsetry on their health.
Parker’s book offers practical advice on how to gradually transition away from corsets, emphasizing the importance of supporting weakened muscles and allowing the body to adapt to its natural shape. She recommended wearing a combination garment and tights for support, gradually loosening the corset, and incorporating breathing exercises and physical activity into daily life. She also stressed the importance of finding a good gymnasium or consulting with a physician to develop a personalized exercise plan. Parker understood that the battle against corsets was a long-term commitment that required patience, perseverance, and a willingness to challenge societal norms.
Frances Stuart Parker’s legacy extends beyond her book on dress reform. She was a tireless advocate for women’s health and well-being, and her work continues to inspire those who seek to challenge oppressive social norms and promote individual freedom. While the corset may no longer be a dominant force in women’s fashion, the struggle for comfortable and practical clothing continues, reminding us of the importance of challenging conventions and prioritizing health and well-being over fleeting trends. Parker died a few years after her book was published, but her friends and family published a memorial book about her life.